[DaveDoesIT]

Hi, I have an old Sherline mill I added steppers to and using an old chopper-style controller that died years back so the Sherline was pushed to the back of the garage and I bought a complete used CNC with Gecko controllers.

I'd like to use the Sherline for prototyping PCBs like this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLQajSRnELc

The Sherlinet has three Superior Electric, Sly-Syn, 6-wire, 2.25vdc, 4.6A with 150-oz-in Holding. I would like to use these motors as it all worked fine way back when. It will only be pushing a pen around so I am not too concerned about stalling or losing steps so getting the full power from them might not be an issue.

I would like to build a low cost controller using either an Aduino or Pi-B as I have one of each un-used. I probably make five PCBs a year so just need the most basic system that will work and cost little.

I have seen the stepper drivers and shields on Amazon but have no idea if they will be adequate for these motors.

Also, it seems that 4-wires are more common these days so can I use the 6-wire steppers?

My preference is leaning towards an Arduino with SD-card instead of the Pi as I am lost with Linux.

Can anyone please point me at what I need to build this?

Thanks

[KOC62]

There is a hardware driver to control the motor and there is a "controller" that gets G-code from computer or SD card and outputs STEP and DIRECTION to the hardware controller.
Which "controller" were you thinking of?

Why are you not using the Gecko controllers?

You can wire 6-wire motors as 4 wires. Have a look here; How Do I Use a 6-Wire Stepper Motor With My Stepper Motor Drive? - National Instruments
Additional info; What Is The Difference Between 4-Wire, 6-Wire, and 8-Wire Stepper Motors? - National Instruments

A cheap hardware controller can be found here in kit form or "get your own parts". Slowing 69.16.243.61&c=1&t=42608.5023275463
You can also investigate the Arduino RAMP (shield), which provides STEP and DIRECTION output, to control the hardware driver; RAMPS 1.4 - RepRapWiki

[Tkamsker]

I did similar on an proxxon mf70 using a hack at marlin and a arduino marlin 1.4 combination that worked Verry Well with pcb-gcode Files ,...


Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk

[DaveDoesIT]

There is a hardware driver to control the motor and there is a "controller" that gets G-code from computer or SD card and outputs STEP and DIRECTION to the hardware controller.
Which "controller" were you thinking of?

On my PC, I want to be able to create and then save a GCode file to an SD card. Then plug that SD into the Arduino+SD-card shield, press "reset" and have it handle it all.

Why are you not using the Gecko controllers?

Perhaps you missed my request for cheap!

Or, did you mean use the Geckos from the other CNC? If so, Two reasons, the motor cables are all soldered connections at both ends. And, I'd like to make the Sherline autonomous as I might use it for engraving with a Dremel strapped to the head.

Plus, I do not want to mess with a working CNC!

Thanks for the info on six-wire motors.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I used to do PCBs that way, but there are now so many places to get even a single PCB fabricated for next to nothing, I'd never go back. Several places will do a single PCB for as little as $10.

Regards,
Ray L.

[underthetire]

Cheapest would be to replace the steppers with 4 wire and use the ramps/arduino/stepstick combo for 3d printers and such. Already G-code, posts already written.

Sent from my A3-A20FHD using Tapatalk

[dharmic]

I used to do PCBs that way, but there are now so many places to get even a single PCB fabricated for next to nothing, I'd never go back. Several places will do a single PCB for as little as $10.

Regards,
Ray L.

This. I have a photo PCB setup with UV exposure box, bubble etch tank, developer baths, printing film, UV resist and blank PCBs sitting in the back of the shed unused for years. And this rig will give me far finer PCBs than will be achieved with a pen or micro mill setup.

The only advantage it gives me is that I can turn around a board in a half a day, provided it's only 1 or two sided and I don't want through hole plating or tidy vias or silk screen or solder mask etc.

On the other hand, sending it off to somewhere like OSHPark or SEEED or any of the million other fast turnaround board houses has one downside: I have to wait a couple weeks for the boards to turn up. After that? I get a professional finish board with far finer work than I could ever do at home, plated pads, plated through holes, layers that line up, more layers if I want them, silk and mask and all that jazz.

And, by the time I add up the consumables and time I invest in a DIY board at home, the pro one works out much cheaper.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

This. I have a photo PCB setup with UV exposure box, bubble etch tank, developer baths, printing film, UV resist and blank PCBs sitting in the back of the shed unused for years. And this rig will give me far finer PCBs than will be achieved with a pen or micro mill setup.

The only advantage it gives me is that I can turn around a board in a half a day, provided it's only 1 or two sided and I don't want through hole plating or tidy vias or silk screen or solder mask etc.

On the other hand, sending it off to somewhere like OSHPark or SEEED or any of the million other fast turnaround board houses has one downside: I have to wait a couple weeks for the boards to turn up. After that? I get a professional finish board with far finer work than I could ever do at home, plated pads, plated through holes, layers that line up, more layers if I want them, silk and mask and all that jazz.

And, by the time I add up the consumables and time I invest in a DIY board at home, the pro one works out much cheaper.

I've never once waited more than one week, and most offer 24 or 48-hour service at incredibly reasonable prices. One of my boards is circular, 14" in diameter, two-sided, plated-through holes, solder masked and silk-screened. It costs me under $15 each for 10 pieces, with delivery in under a week from when I mail in the Gerbers. And quality is outstanding.

Regards,
Ray L.

[dharmic]

Ah yeah, I'm a worse (not worst) case scenario - of that 14 days, 10 is shipping to Oz from USA.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Ah yeah, I'm a worse (not worst) case scenario - of that 14 days, 10 is shipping to Oz from USA.

All my boards are fab'ed in China, so I would think you should be able to get them much quicker than I would, being much closer to the source.

Regards,
Ray L.

[dharmic]

You'd think, but no - EMS China is pretty standard 5-10 working days to Oz.

[RCaffin]

EMS China is pretty standard 5-10 working days to Oz.
You reckon?
10-15 days imho!

To prototype the circuit to make sure it's right, I engrave them. Design in the evening, engrave in the next morning, populate in the middle of the day, and test in the afternoon.
Attachment 331878
Sometimes the prototype lasts a long time too ...

And why not?

Cheers
Roger

[Tkamsker]

My turn around Time is now 2 Hours per side in average but if i Need more i also Source out to india


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

[dharmic]

EMS China is pretty standard 5-10 working days to Oz.
You reckon? 10-15 days imho!

To prototype the circuit to make sure it's right, I engrave them. Design in the evening, engrave in the next morning, populate in the middle of the day, and test in the afternoon.

Yeah, fair enough for simple boards. But when it comes to four layer boards like this one, where (for scale) that skanky looking fingernail ain't a thumb but my index finger and the bigger holes are 0.7mm, I'm not going to get there with an engraver or home photo setup.

My turn around Time is now 2 Hours per side in average

And if I were doing it more often, yep, I'd have it down to 2-3 hours for a simple double sided board. Then add vias which seems to take ages and gets right up my nose, for some reason.

But 2-3 hours of my time + blank PCB makes SEEED etc start looking like pretty good value, plus, the boards that come from the pro shops are pretty!

[RCaffin]

Eh - 4 layer boards with SMDs - PASS!
I can engrave a track between DIL pins OK, but that's about the limit.

Vias - not a problem so far. I poke a wire through, solder both sides, cut off both sides. But I try to not have too many.

Not arguing really. DILs are fine for me, large SMDs are hard. 4 and 6 pin SMD optocouplers I can manage. PGAs not.

Cheers
Roger

[dharmic]

I know it's not a big deal with vias, it's just a chore I loathe and detest for some reason. In fact, the whole wires through holes thing has gotten old for me a long time ago and I've moved to SMDs wherever possible now. I find them quicker to assemble, neater finish, much more compact, blah blah blah all the reasons the industry has moved that way. The photo was the first time I'd used 0402 size components and TQFN chips though, so for the most part it was a holder paste and hot air gun instead of traditional solder and iron. Interesting and a bit too fiddly, I know now that if the board doesn't need to be small (in this case it does), 0805 and TQFP are the practical limit for simple work.

But yeah, heading down this road makes photographic etching mandatory I think, engraving just hasn't got the iddy biddy precision required (at least not on my cheapo machine).

[RCaffin]

My machine can look after the required precision, but the cutters are getting a shade tiny at that stage.
I am using SMDs for some things, but I have persisted with the larger DIL packages in many cases because I can put them in sockets, and replace them. That is wonderfully convenient. I don't get many failures mind you - except during commisioning!

Cheers
Roger

[Khalid]

PCBway.com is the best. 10PCB 100mmx100mmeach ,double sided, 1US/PCB

[Tkamsker]

I Love the smell of milled pcb s in the Morning. - i am Not arguing 4 Layer you have to outsource


Gesendet von iPad mit Tapatalk

[RCaffin]

10PCB 100mmx100mmeach ,double sided, 1US/PCB

And 2 weeks postal shipping to Oz at $27 per parcel, or a lot more if they won't use USPS.
You need someone very local.

Cheers
Roger