[Wdbilbo]

I'm a total newbie to cnc routing and decided to take the plunge by buying a cheap Chinese cnc router. My setup is an old PC running mach3 and a parallel port and cable linking it to a 3 axis controller and 1.5 kw vfd. Unfortunately the unit came with virtually no instructions so I have been working blind without any help from the supplier. I'm based in the U.K., where voltage is 220 and I was sent a 110 volt vfd! Fortunately, I have a transformer I was able to use to drop the 220 to 110 volts.

I've fitted the stepper motors and wired everything up and am able to get the spindle to run manually through the vfd, though I have no idea about settings because there is no documentation.

I believe mach3 is set up ok. The driver test appears ok and I've configured pins and ports according to the documentation supplied with the router. When I turn on the controller the stepper motors lock and hum very quietly, which I believe shows they're working correctly (when the controller is turned off they move freely). The problem I have is that when I try to move the axes through mach3 nothing happens to the router but mach3 displays axis movements.

I'm stuck for what to do and was hoping that someone would give me some advice please!!


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[SG50]

It would help others if you give the model numbers and which controller box it comes with. it is quite likely that the pin assignments are in error in mach3 setup.You need to trace and verify at the control box which wire goes where. Power off first and disconnect all cables to easily access the asssembly/breakout circuit.Also check the "enable" signal in the output signals of setup. Hope this helps.A photo of control box interior and what motor driver ic?

[Wdbilbo]

Thanks.

I don't have a model name or number of the unit, but this is a picture of the front of the controller box:

and the interior:

The mach3 settings that the user manual gives are:
.

The parallel port in my computer is a brand new PCI card and I have read that some won't work with mach3. Is there any way of testing whether this is the problem?

[SG50]

Here's the board connections if they are any help and other people's settings.. As far as I can see your board is set for 2.5A current and 1/8 microstep.
Is the fan running? Do you have a multimeter to measure the power supply voltage to board? Good luck.

https://bleughbleugh.files.wordpress...ts-outputs.jpg


On going chinese 6040 problems [Archive] - MYCNCUK

Is the parallel port address in mach3 same as in the bios or windows control panel?

[Wdbilbo]

That's great thanks. I have a huge amount to learn!!! I'm used to working with handtools and my scroll saw. This is a bit more complicated!!

Yes the fan works perfectly. It comes on as soon as the controller is switched on.

Looking at the board connections picture you sent me, they all appear to be routed correctly to the various outputs to the stepper motors. My stepper motors are NEMA23 with 1.8 degree step angle (is that the same as 1/8 microstep?) Their voltage is 6 volts and current is 3amps. I don't have a multimeter but it sounds like getting one would be a good idea. Would a cheap one from somewhere like screwfix be ok? I take it you mean checking the voltage that is coming out of the PSU - the stated voltage is 24 volts.

Is my theory that there is some sort of incompatibility with the PCI parallel port in my computer feasible? I've been contemplating going down the route of replacing the board with a tinyg. Would you recommend that or would you recommend a different option? Many thanks. This is really confusing me at the moment!!

[MegaMoog]

Check n see if your using port #1 or #2 for your pp card and the port address needs to be correct also in Mach3.
In your third pic with settings you can see the step port # & dir port # on the far right two columns.

Hope this might help…

MM

[Wdbilbo]

Thanks, I've checked the address in mach3 is the same as windows device driver shows. I've also set mach3 exactly the same as the settings in my picture 3. I've even tried swearing at it!!!!! :-)

[MegaMoog]

Attachment 342570

Make sure the PORT ENABLED check box is checked...

[awerby]

Are you using a 32-bit version of Windows? The 64-bit versions won't work with the parallel port in Mach3. Is the LPT port set to EPP mode in BIOS? If the answer to both questions is "yes", then it's probably your PCI parallel port that's not working. Some don't. If you get tired of messing with it, you might consider a UC-100 adapter, to run it off the USB port.

[MegaMoog]

I would think that a pp card would use a setting for port #2… no guarantee though… Hmmmmmm?

[Wdbilbo]

Yes, I'd read that some PCI parallel ports don't work. I'm using 32 bit windows xp - it's a clean install on an old desktop computer with nothing else installed other than the OS and mach3. Also, the LPT port is set to EPP in BIOS and I've also tried installing a pp driver that is supposed to support EPP. You suggest a UC-100. I've been contemplating a tinyg board. Which would you advise is the better option for a newbie to CNC though quite experienced windows user.

[Wdbilbo]

Yes, I'd read that some PCI parallel ports don't work. I'm using 32 bit windows xp - it's a clean install on an old desktop computer with nothing else installed other than the OS and mach3. Also, the LPT port is set to EPP in BIOS and I've also tried installing a pp driver that is supposed to support EPP. You suggest a UC-100. I've been contemplating a tinyg board. Which would you advise is the better option for a newbie to CNC though quite experienced windows user.

Thanks. I'll try to figure out some strings in port 2.


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[Wdbilbo]

I would think that a pp card would use a setting for port #2… no guarantee though… Hmmmmmm?

Thanks. I'll try to figure out some settings in port 2


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[awerby]

One of these: TinyG CNC Controller - Synthetos ? That would replace your whole motion control system (which might be a good thing). But it would limit the potential power significantly. It's really intended for powering 3D printers, which use smaller NEMA 17 motors. But if your motors want more than 2.5 amps or 30vDC (and most do) then it's not going to work. The UC-100 is just an adapter for the logic-level signals, but it doesn't limit you on the power side.

[Wdbilbo]

One of these: TinyG CNC Controller - Synthetos ? That would replace your whole motion control system (which might be a good thing). But it would limit the potential power significantly. It's really intended for powering 3D printers, which use smaller NEMA 17 motors. But if your motors want more than 2.5 amps or 30vDC (and most do) then it's not going to work. The UC-100 is just an adapter for the logic-level signals, but it doesn't limit you on the power side.

Thanks. It sounds like the UC-100 is the better choice.


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[SG50]

Yes, I'd read that some PCI parallel ports don't work. I'm using 32 bit windows xp - it's a clean install on an old desktop computer with nothing else installed other than the OS and mach3. Also, the LPT port is set to EPP in BIOS and I've also tried installing a pp driver that is supposed to support EPP. You suggest a UC-100. I've been contemplating a tinyg board. Which would you advise is the better option for a newbie to CNC though quite experienced windows user.

No, you can't use any other parallel port driver as mach3 needs to go low level to get complete control as explained in mach3.
I would suggest uninstalling mach3 and reinstall and reboot for driver to take effect.There are software to test pp but you also need to hook up some hardware like pp connector (female),leds and resistors. Like here:LPT Test Utility It test all pins unlike others that only test outputs/data. Also check "enable" is defined or not in the output signal page. This turns on/off motors. Don't forget the Estop as your machine is using hardware stop(physiacl button) instead of software further down? Lastly software limits instead of physical limit switches which I don't see connected.

[Wdbilbo]

Many thanks for everyone's advice.

I've decided to buy a UC100 that I have now received and installed and tried out on 3 different computers and I still have the same problem. I have a desktop, running XP, and 2 laptops , 1 running vista 32 bit and the other running windows 10 64 bit.

I have decided to fire up the computer and the controller box. When the controller box is turned on without the parallel cable connected, I just get the power light LED illuminating on the controller board, as:

.

When the parallel cable is attached, with the computer switched off or on, all of the LEDs illuminate. When I start up mach3, the LEDs marked XPU, ZPU and YPU go out. I can then get the LEDs marked XDR, YDR and ZDR to go off and on as I press the various arrows and PG Up and PG Dn.

I have also tried running some of the gcode demo programs that are in mach3 and the XDR, YDR and ZDR lights go off and on, with the axes movements that can be seen in the mach3 video screen.

I have also bought a multimeter, but am not sure what to do with it!!!

I'd be grateful for any help/advice please.

Edited:

I think I'm making some progress. I have used my multimeter to test the voltage going into the circuitboard at 24 volts. I am now trying to test the voltage going to the stepper motors. With reference to the following pictures
I am putting the red and black prongs of my mutlimeter onto the output cables/pins as pairs and no voltage is showing. Am I doing something wrong or have I identified the problem as being the stepper drivers etc need to be replaced?

Thanks

[SG50]

A friendy warning..do not test/operate control box without a load (meaning the router's x,y,z cables must be connected to machine) or you risk damaging the driver board.

As stated before..mach3 needs it's own pp driver and not any other.Best to uninstall and reinstall mach3 with driver amd then reboot as instructed. The fact that xdr,ydr,zdr lights go on /off means signals are getting through although you said no xyz movement. Is the Estop
button released instead of pushed in? Twist and turn to release.Use desktop with XP..it's more likely to run. Also toggle reset in mach3 screen to get out of Estop blinking.Only then can you try jogging the x,y,z axis.

Check if "enable" signal is defined in output signals tab.Same with Estop.

Multimeter will not read at motor outputs as the speed/frequency is too high..readings will fluctuate. Mach3 demo version defaults to 25khz. frequency. Multimeter will at best do a few kilohertz.So you will need to plug in the machine.Also if no gcode is running there will be no output signals at the motors.

[Wdbilbo]

A friendy warning..do not test/operate control box without a load (meaning the router's x,y,z cables must be connected to machine) or you risk damaging the driver board.

As stated before..mach3 needs it's own pp driver and not any other.Best to uninstall and reinstall mach3 with driver amd then reboot as instructed. The fact that xdr,ydr,zdr lights go on /off means signals are getting through although you said no xyz movement. Is the Estop
button released instead of pushed in? Twist and turn to release.Use desktop with XP..it's more likely to run. Also toggle reset in mach3 screen to get out of Estop blinking.Only then can you try jogging the x,y,z axis.

Check if "enable" signal is defined in output signals tab.Same with Estop.

Multimeter will not read at motor outputs as the speed/frequency is too high..readings will fluctuate. Mach3 demo version defaults to 25khz. frequency. Multimeter will at best do a few kilohertz.So you will need to plug in the machine.Also if no gcode is running there will be no output signals at the motors.

Many thanks for your advice. I've been experiencing a steep learning curve over the past few days.

The driver I was referring to was the windows driver that was needed because I was using a pci pp card. Without this there is not lpt port.

The enable signal is defined both for the three axes and the e-stop. I've also tested the e-stop button and it activates in mach3.

I've run gcode (road runner) and the LEDs "danced".

I've come to the conclusion that the best option is to get a new breakout board and stepper drivers. I had actually bought the router with this as a long term aim...I'm simply having to do it earlier than I expected!


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[SG50]

Many thanks for your advice. I've been experiencing a steep learning curve over the past few days.

The driver I was referring to was the windows driver that was needed because I was using a pci pp card. Without this there is not lpt port.

The enable signal is defined both for the three axes and the e-stop. I've also tested the e-stop button and it activates in mach3.

I've run gcode (road runner) and the LEDs "danced".

I've come to the conclusion that the best option is to get a new breakout board and stepper drivers. I had actually bought the router with this as a long term aim...I'm simply having to do it earlier than I expected!


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Forgot to mention, the signal voltage at the motor outputs (green connector) is AC not DC even so DMM (digital multi meter)
should be AC range and set at highest range and come down if no reading is observed.Still because of motor's back emf (reverse voltage) which can be many times motor supply voltage can damage DMM. Do not manually turn motor even when off as it becomes a generator (back emf) unless disconnected.

The driver board also includes the breakout circuit but if you have another board you can try swapping but I think you should stick with the original. Test the motor output cables/wires to see if the correct wires are hooked up.As there are 2 coils per bipolar stepper motor.Unscrew 1 axis eg. X or Y or Z . Each pair eg. A+ and A - . currently blue/yellow and red/green. test with beeper/continuity or ohm range should read low ohm. Again power off first. As the current output is high it is very risky for DMM.

People have reported using the Willrose brand pp card with success.

EDIT: I hope you are using pin and port assignments of machine manufacturer instead of Youtube video as each manufacturer wire them differently via parallel port.