[atomarc]

Correct. If the ESS is being commanded by Mach 4 the output is either active high or active low. Motor on is likely active high so you should see 5 volts from the pin on the ESS assigned to close the relay. The other portion of that control would be direction. Forward or Reverse would also be assigned a pin and an active high or low output from Mach. That is assuming you aren't talking directly to the VFD via RS-485.

Kenny,

For the Hitachi drive on our machine, FWD and REV and wired to the intelligent relay board of the drive and their functions are assignable. When we tell Mach to run the spindle forward, through the ESS, it closes pin #1 on port #3...the screen shows it doing that.

That output from the ESS (pin#1) powers a relay on the 3660 BOB which is wired to the VFD. That closure on the BOB commands a FWD command to the drive and the spindle starts.

The same things happens for a REV command but using a different ESS pin. For REV, ESS pin #17 closes which powers a different relay on the BOB which in turn tells the VFD to run REV.

If I pull both output wires from the 3660 relay board off of the buss of the drive and stick a meter on them, whenever a FWD or REV command is sent from the ESS to the BOB, both those output wires become energized. The ESS screen readout indicates only one is firing..not two. When both wire fire, the VFD see's a FWD and REV command at the same time and will not run.

It's a brand new MX3660, all spindle speed commands to the drive work fine as well as all motion control for the steppers..only the spindle direction is goofy. All the diagnostic stuff on the screen for the ESS looks perfect and it's sending all the proper stuff to the stepper driver as spindle control and motion control work perfectly...only spindle direction commands are goofy.

My gut instinct tells me the MX3660 has some type of glitch in it.

If you can verify the ESS is only powering the commanded relay pin and not two relay pins then it proves the ESS is not at fault for the glitch. I just am not sure how to do that without releasing any magic smoke from a apparently functioning ESS board.

Does this make any sense at all?

Stuart

[Kenny Duval]

But if you check the pins at the ESS do you see both the FWD and REV pins active? If both are active high out of Mach then both should show 5 volts but not at the same time on the ESS. Start at the ESS and work your way out to the BOB. The bob can only do what the ESS tells it to do.

Look close at the ESS plugin config. Perhaps is has a corrupted config that is triggering pin #1 and pin 17# at the same time. The alternative is the perhaps the ESS was damaged as well in the original event.

[atomarc]

But if you check the pins at the ESS do you see both the FWD and REV pins active? If both are active high out of Mach then both should show 5 volts but not at the same time on the ESS. Start at the ESS and work your way out to the BOB. The bob can only do what the ESS tells it to do.

Look close at the ESS plugin config. Perhaps is has a corrupted config that is triggering pin #1 and pin 17# at the same time. The alternative is the perhaps the ESS was damaged as well in the original event.

Kenny,

What you are suggesting about checking the pins is EXACTLY what I'm trying to do...I'm just not sure I know the correct procedure to do it without harming the ESS. My guess would be a simple voltage check between each pin and ground, but simple guesses have got me in trouble before.

Nick isn't home right now and he's the MACH/ESS programming guru, so I'll wait for him and we can reassign the spindle direction controls to different pins. Every function on the ESS works perfectly so it's hard to believe that when everything went to hell in a handbag, those two pins were damaged..but everything else is fine.

I want to thank everyone here for their help and comments...this Grizz is just so much scrap in the corner unless it can earn its keep.

Stuart

[Kenny Duval]

Yeah they are simple 5 volt lines. Put a volt meter on the output pin of the ESS and go to ground. When the pin is inactive it should show less than 2 volts or 0 if there is a pull down resistor. When it is active it should show 5 volts or close to it. Put a meter on both to see if they go high at the same time when commanding a FOR or REV out of Mach.

[atomarc]

Yeah they are simple 5 volt lines. Put a volt meter on the output pin of the ESS and go to ground. When the pin is in active it should show less than 2 volts or 0 if there is a pull down resistor. When it is active it should show 5 volts or close to it. Put a meter on both to see if they go high at the same time when commanding a FOR or REV out of Mach.

Kenny,

Thanks...that's what I'll do then.

Stuart

[atomarc]

Well..no joy yet Gents. Disconnecting the DB25 tells the ESS all is not cool and there is a problem. Nick killed the E-stop fault which put out the little red LED but somehow the ESS would not respond correctly. It looks like I need to find a way to trick the ESS into thinking it's still connected to the MX3660. We don't use the 'charge pump' feature and it's turned off all the time so I don't know what the ESS needs to function correctly when the DB25 connector is unplugged.

Stuart

[Stigoe]

It looks like the drive may be set for CW/CCW control while the ESS or Leadshine is set for enable/direction control. In manuals from CNC4PC, they're called US (CW/CCW) and international (Enable/Direction) modes.

[atomarc]

It looks like the drive may be set for CW/CCW control while the ESS or Leadshine is set for enable/direction control. In manuals from CNC4PC, they're called US (CW/CCW) and international (Enable/Direction) modes.

Stigoe,

The Hitachi drive has configurable inputs with many options, as does the ESS. We have the ESS programmed to initiate a 'run forward' command through the BOB to the drive...this pulls relay #1 in the BOB high which starts the drive running. Commanding a 'run reverse' will pull relay #2 on the BOB high and tells the spindle to run reverse..CCW. Only one pin at a time should be high. After installing the new-improved MX3660, any direction control pulls all the relays on the BOB high at the same time which results in a NO-RUN for the drive

I'm not electronically sharp, so I hope this makes sense. My gut is telling me it's a problem with the new MX3660 BOB

Stuart

[Michael82]

Made some progress today on one shot oil system for the machine ways. It consists of plates that bolt on either side of the saddle, they have oil galleys running though them to lube the X & Y ways, the non gibb side of the y has a hold drilled through it to connect front and back plates.... its sorta hard to tell from the pictures whats going on so if you have any questions feel free. The external oil galley plates seal to their corresponding holes on the saddle with orings. The single push to connect fitting on the back will be connected to the one shot pump.


Front of saddle







Set screws will plug the holes used to drill all the galleys.


Picture showing how oil comes through the y way and connects to the x. o rings sit in recesses to seal it all up.



The back plate where the oil will come in. (It was a real biotch to drill the long hole through this lil sucker)




Picture showing how the gib side of the y gets oil through the copper line.


The brass fitting seals to the saddle using the same #5 orings as the rest of the system.




Thanks!

Man I love this lube setup can you share the external oil galley plates ??? This is the best setup for the amount of space to work in ....please could you share maybe a hand sketch or cad file????

[atomarc]

Michael,

No CAD stuff or drawings other than sketches on wet bar napkins, so you'll have to glean all info from the build pictures..sorry.

Stuart

[Michael82]

Michael,

No CAD stuff or drawings other than sketches on wet bar napkins, so you'll have to glean all info from the build pictures..sorry.

Stuart

I understand how is she holding up ?? Is there anything u would have changed

[atomarc]

Michael,

The machine has been sitting in my shop basically unused since it was finished. My son dinked around with it for a while, but it probably has less than 2 hours run time on it. I would love to sell it to free up shop space for other projects.

Stuart

[CL_MotoTech]

This is quite possibly the nicest G0704 conversion ever. I wish my cash flow was better, I'd buy it in a heart beat. Then I'd put a tool changer on it and run nonstop.

[atomarc]

Well the renewed exposure to this thread has been heartening, to say the least. It was a long hard build and I wish it were more documented for the folks that have asked for CAD stuff and drawings of particular pieces, but I'm a manual, cowboy shop and everything was written on a sketch pad which was tossed later..so no real history other than the build pictures...sorry guys!

Stuart

[atomarc]

I've looked at other threads on this subject and realized that it was all the photo documentation that we took..all the pictures that Nick took on our thread that added interest. Intelligent dialog is good, but 'how to' pictures really make the subject interesting.

This machine would still love to find a good home.

Stuart

[Miamijerry]

Viewed the "Grizz" photo album today. Atomarc is amazing, such skill. I wish I had some of those skills.

Aerospace quality workmanship.

[atomarc]

Wow..that's quite a compliment. My little shop is a very long way from being anything aerospace, but we do give it all we have...thanks.

Stuart & Nick

[atomarc]

Gentlemen,

Does the hosting site wipe out all pictures posted in a thread after a certain time period?

Thanks,
Stuart

[Fastest1]

Gentlemen,

Does the hosting site wipe out all pictures posted in a thread after a certain time period?

Thanks,
Stuart

Hoss' work is still here! ;-)

[atomarc]

That's true..but that thread doesn't' seem to be as photo-rich as the 'Grizz ', so I wasn't sure. But your observation seems to be spot on. I guess I won't worry about the pix being dumped. They were a large and important part of our build.

Stuart