[brianbonedoc]

Pops - That sounds pretty accurate and repeatable!
I still cant figure out why guys like Saunders (NYCCNC) don't use probing on their tormachs and prefer Haimers?

[popspipes]

Pops - That sounds pretty accurate and repeatable!
I still cant figure out why guys like Saunders (NYCCNC) don't use probing on their tormachs and prefer Haimers?

Maybe because they are used to using it? They work like a probe and probably are more accurate than the cheaper probes, but the sequence is not automatic I like this one because of its accuracy and the cycle is automatic and it is a top of the line probe, I really like that!
My usage is mainly hobby related but I do have some parts that are critical and need to be correctly indicated when flipped 180 degrees, I have a few of those coming up shortly, so I will get to use it on those.........

[jcposada]

Thank you all for posting here. Based on this discussion I picked up a TP1S on eBay. It arrived yesterday and when I tested it the "status" screen shows the input as being triggered permanently. I tried both the "active" and "passive" settings. Any ideas before I take it apart? Can I damage it by taking it apart or is this mechanically similar to the wildhorse probe?

Also, the protective rubber sleeve these used to come with is broken - any idea if it can still be sourced anywhere?

[popspipes]

I used the MP3 the same as Brians as I wasnt sure if others would work.
Have you tried to check it with an ohm meter for continuity?
They have various means of transmitting the signal, I removed the transmitting portion of mine and connected the two wires from the sensor to the cable that plugs into the accessory socket on the machine.
I dont have the interface box.

The rubber boot on mine is intact, I imagine that is for coolant and debris protection??

In my opinion they are well worth it, it seems to be very accurate,

The only thing I found is that I have to add half the backlash in both axis after the probe centers, I just type.0007 in the X and the Y in the mdi box, after it completes its moves reset the X and Y to zero.

edit: correction

[IMT]

The only thing I found is that I have to add half the backlash in both axis after the probe centers, I just type.007 in the X and the Y in the mdi box, after it completes its moves reset the X and Y to zero.

Did you mean .0007? I hope you don't have .014" backlash. Or are you working in millimeters?

[popspipes]

Did you mean .0007? I hope you don't have .014" backlash. Or are you working in millimeters?

Thanks for the correction I meant .0007

[kstrauss]

Also, the protective rubber sleeve these used to come with is broken - any idea if it can still be sourced anywhere?

I suspect that the boot is available from Renishaw for more than you paid for the whole probe but it might be worth a call/email. Is it possible that a baby bottle nipple would fit? Just thinking outside the bottle...

[brianbonedoc]

My boot was pretty much in tatters when I received my probe - so I just removed it all. Doesn't affect the probe as far as I can tell.

Pops - as far as backlash - you know PathPilot can do that automatically. Just go edit the tormach_1100-3.ini file in the tormach_mill directory.

Just add the BACKLASH line like I have below with your actual backlash. Do for ea axis. Axis 0 = X, Axis 1=y, and 2 = Z

---------------
[AXIS_0]
TYPE = LINEAR
HOME = 0.000

# Default=110 in/min 1.833/30.0 - just upped to 5/22
MAX_VELOCITY = 5
MAX_ACCELERATION = 22

# 20 % higher max-vel and 50% higher maxaccel for backlash comp 7.2/26
STEPGEN_MAX_VEL = 6
STEPGEN_MAXACCEL = 26

BACKLASH = 0.0008

-------------------

[popspipes]

Thanks Brian for the tip.
I will change it tomorrow, I need to check to see what it is exactly, both axes are a bit over what they should be.
I had my rapids at 300 ipm but set them back to 120, for what I do I really dont need that kind of speed.
I had read that it could be set in Pathpilot but had no idea how to set it up, thanks!

[popspipes]

I finally got around to setting up the backlash for the X and Y axes as per Brians example, in the .ini file. I bored a .375 hole about 1/4" deep in a piece of scrap 6061, nice and slow with a 2 flute cutter, removed the cutter installed the probe, moved both axes slightly and reprobed the hole, reinstalled the cutter, it went back in the same hole with no cutting that I could tell, happy camper here!! According to my chinese indicator, no backlash showing in either axes! Definitely close enough for what I do, then some......................


My boot is in good shape, cant say the same for the nose/boot protector aluminum cap though, that thing has a few hickeys in it.........

I still dont have 250 dollars in this thing with 2 new stylus and its accurate, thanks for posting about it Brian!

[IMT]

That's great the backlash comp is working. Have you tried cutting a boss and measuring the circularity?

[popspipes]

I havent tried that yet, but I will in the next few days.

[popspipes]

That's great the backlash comp is working. Have you tried cutting a boss and measuring the circularity?

concentricity on a .970 boss .969x .968y It is off approximately .001

I made an extra pass 0 doc otherwise it would have most likely mic'ed right on.
This could be due to a bit of slop in the Z ways possibly, I dont really know, I havent adjusted the Z jib in quite awhile.


I set the cam tolerance to .0001, default is .001 and I am not really sure this had anything to do with it?? I have never changed this from the default before.

It is close enough to suit me as it is now, I am going to play with the tolerance setting in Sprutcam 7 to see what that does as it has always been set on .001.

[IMT]

concentricity on a .970 boss .969x .968y It is off approximately .001

Just curious how did you measure? Micrometer in X and Y? If you put an indicator in the spindle and sweep the boss what do you get? The change in reading around the boss is the circularity deviation (minus the error of the spindle itself, which can be measured by sweeping a large gauge pin).

[popspipes]

IMT

I measured it with a 1" Starrett mic, I did sweep the boss with a .01MM indicator in the spindle, both checked about the same.
I need to recheck the probe ball concentricity again and the X backlash setting and the Z jib, as its still off in the X direction, when I reprobed the boss the error was in the -X direction, the -Y +Y +X read 0, the -X was where it showed the .001 error, I dont really understand what is going on there??
I will keep at it and hopefully get it figured out eventually ha!

Thanks for the input

edit:

I reset the backlash correction, it was off a couple tenths in X, cut another test piece and its still off .001 in concentricity in the X axis?? I think I need to quit splitting hairs and use the thing ha!!

[popspipes]

I ran a stick of parts today, indicated with the probe, worked super and quicker than the indicator setup I was using, and more accurate as well. I used the backlash settings in Pathpilot and it didnt miss a beat either.

Very happy with it!!

[nitewatchman]

Well you have convinced me to take a shot also. I received today an MP3 Inductive Probe and an MI8 Controller. The Probe is on a K&T Straight Shank holder which will likely get made into a TTS Shank (weighs about a 1000#). I will pull the inductive arm and convert to direct wired similar to what you have done.

Will take a while with what is on the 1100 now but I look forward to getting it going.

Out of curiosity do you treat the MP3 as an Active or Passive Probe?

gary

[popspipes]

Well you have convinced me to take a shot also. I received today an MP3 Inductive Probe and an MI8 Controller. The Probe is on a K&T Straight Shank holder which will likely get made into a TTS Shank (weighs about a 1000#). I will pull the inductive arm and convert to direct wired similar to what you have done.

Will take a while with what is on the 1100 now but I look forward to getting it going.

Out of curiosity do you treat the MP3 as an Active or Passive Probe?

gary

Passive on the settings page.

I dont have the interface, I am wondering if I should look for one?
I am using it directly plugged into the accessory socket on the machine.
A standard din connector is what is used inside the probe to connect it to the transmitting section.

I am well pleased with it so far as this is my first experience with probing of any kind.

I did have to put in the backlash correction in Pathpilot as Brian mentioned earlier for the X and Y axes, then it was very accurate.

Good luck with your project!

[popspipes]

I finally put in the Z backlash figure, it is really apparent that it is working, as the table movement with the jog controller is instantaneous if a slight up or down move is needed.

[Zetopan]

I dont have the interface, I am wondering if I should look for one?

See message #3 in this thread to see why a probe interface is a very good thing to have. If you watch eBay carefully you should be able to get a PI box for no more than about $125 and if you are in a hurry you can always get a used one for about $275 (one eBay seller has stacks of them). Which probe do you have? An appropriate probe interface box depends on the probe you have, different boxes work with different probes. All of my interface boxes cost me about $100 each, but a friend bought the same interface box with a short time warranty for about $250 from the aforementioned eBay seller.