[adam_m]

I'm looking for some suggestion on adding some locator pins to my table for quick addition/removal when I need to run multiple pieces.

My thoughts were to add some type of metal/plastic receiver to the table for accepting a metal roll pin or shelf pin but I'm not having much luck finding a suitable receiver.

My table is MDF and I could mill it right into the table but I worry about the holes elongating after some usage.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Adam,

[ger21]

Bronze bushings, epoxied in?

[adam_m]

Maybe pouring epoxy makes some sense without a bushing and then machining to fit some pins?

What kind of epoxy would you use for that?

Do you think that would make any sense?

[RicknBeachcrest]

Maybe something like this?

1/4" Shelf Grommet Bright Brass | CabinetParts.com

They also make some in steel. I just ordered some of the brass ones for a book shelf project.

As far as epoxy; I've been using west system epoxy for years. It's not cheap, but has a real good shelf life.

[adam_m]

Thanks appreciate the ideas.

Adam,

[wizard]

Try any of these for parts for fixturing:
1. https://us.misumi-ec.com
2. https://www.carrlane.com/en-us/
3. https://www.mscdirect.com/ {largely a distributor}
4. Jergens Inc
5. Workholding Vises - Tooling Components - CMM Fixturing - Union, OH - TE-CO
6. https://www.woodcraft.com {a nice resource especially as they expand store locations. They have all sorts of stuff for the professionals and somethings such a self supports can be retested for CNC use.}

These are just some of the sources for fixturing parts. Some of the guy listed above can be expensive especially parts for tool and die work. There are lots of other options that can make for passable solutions.

For example dowel pins are cheap and easy to use requiring only that you buy a set of dowel pin reamers. Buy the dowel pins with the ground in spiral groove and tapped at one end to make pulling the pins easy. Dowel pins are harder steel so don't hit them. They can be used in wood by the way if you have a hard enough table to support them.

If you are working with a wood table or spoil board sometimes, simply glueing down a piece of stock and then cutting it out as a locator is all that you need to do. Don't forget the wedge, if it was good enough for the Egyptians it can be good enough for you. Basically the wedge is used in conjunction with the stock previously glued down to the table as a low profile clamp. Of course w wedge doesn't solve every clamping issue but it is often overlooked (too simple).

Don't be afraid of all thread. Glued into a wooden table it can be a very effective hold down solution. That is as long as you don't need to remove it. To get around that use thread inserts in your table or spoil board. All thread can be found almost everywhere and can be suitable for wood working and there lighter work. Just use all thread that is substantial enough to do the job. You wouldn't locate on all thread but rather use it to hold down fences or sleeves that leave you with a smooth surface to locate against.

Basically this is one of those use you imagination problems.

I'm looking for some suggestion on adding some locator pins to my table for quick addition/removal when I need to run multiple pieces.

My thoughts were to add some type of metal/plastic receiver to the table for accepting a metal roll pin or shelf pin but I'm not having much luck finding a suitable receiver.

Try wood working hardware stores. I'm pretty sure at least one of them had on sale sleeves for shelf pins. These are little brass sleeves that get glued in t shelving verticals to hold shelf pins..

You can get much more elaborate solutions from some of the companies specializing in fixturing that I mentioned. Be aware though that some stuff for the tool and die industry can be expensive..

My table is MDF and I could mill it right into the table but I worry about the holes elongating after some usage.

Is that your table or spoil board? I ask because the spoil board will have to be replaced anyways. MDF literally sucks and not being a fan I'm not sure I can help much. However it isn't uncommon to try to strengthen MDF, particle board and other similar materials by trying to get glue to wick into freshly machined surfaces. the idea being that the glue sets up and hardness the area. In any event if this is a spoil board you will eventually have to replace it anyways.

As for pins in your table top loosening up over time go with a bigger pin. The more material a pin needs to displace to loosen up the longer the hole it is in should remain viable. Instead of 5 mm pins use something on the order of 12mm or larger. Eventually though the MDF will give up the ghost.

Plastics like Delrin and similar materials can make for very durable locating surfaces but the stuff isn't cheap. I'm not sure I would use it as a receiver for locating pins though. It would be better to sue delving and a female pattern to receive your parts and bolt that down to your table.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Suggestions are very dependent upon what you are trying to do here. Frequency of change overs are a big factor as is required precision. You could need anything for a set of dowel pins to a table replacement with a sheet of aluminum tooling plate.

Adam,

[coherent]

I drilled holes in a 2 inch grid on my router table and tried the steel pins like they use on shelving units etc. This worked, but was not the best option. I then enlarged all the holes a bit and added pronged "t-nuts" on the underside of the table on each hole. This allowed me to use short pieces of threaded rod and wing nuts or nuts with knobs to secure work pieces anywhere on the table. I also made some short lengths of flat (or with a slight bend) pieces of flat aluminum pieces with a hole in the middle to use as clamp down with this setup. Cheap simple and easy but allows fast secure work-piece and repeat-ability as far as location.
The t-nuts I used are like these: https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-t-n...Fc-FfgodePkAgQ

[adam_m]

Great stuff Wizard thanks for the links and suggestions.

For example dowel pins are cheap and easy to use requiring only that you buy a set of dowel pin reamers. Buy the dowel pins with the ground in spiral groove and tapped at one end to make pulling the pins easy. Dowel pins are harder steel so don't hit them. They can be used in wood by the way if you have a hard enough table to support them.

2 questions here. What's the purpose of the reamer can't I simply tap the table or use an insert? Would an aluminum pin be better just in case?

This is an MDF spoil board so maybe I'm over thinking it and I should just mill some holes hammer (figuratively speaking) the pins in and move on...

Coherent, I thought about doing what you've done, but the t-slot I've installed works fairly well until I crank down on it. It will pull up. MDF just isn't designed for that kind of stress.

Adam,