[Beefy]

It's a dam good thing there are people that don't have that mindset, because if the criteria for DIY CNC was understanding how flyback diodes work then there wouldn't be a market for these breakout boards.

You win. You are the smartest guy here.

I'm out.
Derek

First of all, go and find a pack of Valium and take a triple dose Mr Sensitive.

If anyone is going to connect any of THEIR equipment to a breakout board, they should no how to do so in my opinion.

Relays aren't the only thing someone could connect to a breakout board. So what then ? the BB manufacturer has to think of / forsee every possible thing a user could connect to the breakout board and write tutorials plus supply the parts too. Or if the outputs don't have enough current drive for certain situations, etc, etc. The list can go on.

It isn't about being smart, because I'm not smart. What I am though is someone who uses Google, etc a lot to research things before I do them. It ain't difficult and I don't expect to be baby sat for everything I do.

Sorry I gave my opinion.

Oh crap, hope you don't need more Valium now that I've said that.

[Beefy]

So I believe what you are saying is even though the UB-1 is not using a flyback diode in the test it would be best practice if one was used. 

How to wire the flyback diode for good practice.

It's extremely simple, you just wire it in parallel with the relay coil (or whatever inductive load you are powering). You must have the diode so it is "blocking" and not forward biased. Forward biased simply means the diode conducts with little resistance to the current flow (almost like a short circuit). But turn it around the other way and it blocks the current. So basically it's like a one way valve and when the relay is powered by DC current the diode is doing zippo because it's not conducting, i.e. the "one way valve" is in the blocking direction.

When you turn off the DC power to a relay / solenoid / inductive load, the electric field of the relay "collapses" and in doing so it generates a voltage which is the opposite polarity of the DC power. The flyback diode allows this reverse current to flow thus preventing the reverse voltage from building up and damaging something.

Google "Flyback Diode Relay / Inductor / Coil" and you should get loads of hits with diagrams and explanations. A flyback diode is not a special diode, it's just the name given based on the use it's being put to.

Example the same basic silicon diode could have various names given to it depending on the use:

Flyback diode
AC rectifying diodes
Auctioneering diode

Keith.

[vrasak]

At least I make some progress for this week. The new version of UB1 has been tested. All issues has been fixed.
This version added a jumper for board identifier selection, whether 5LPT compatible or stay with UB1 mode. All others selectable features are solder-bridges underneath of the board.

I'll comeback back here to update you guys again when they are ready to buy. I'm sorry to keep you guys waiting for so sometime now, since a hobbyist can't not do much of work but I'll do my best to serve you. I'm sure you guys also are a single person and do every thing mostly by your own.

[ger21]

Nothing to be sorry about. You've done an excellent job, and far faster than I expected.

[spumco]

Nothing to be sorry about. You've done an excellent job, and far faster than I expected.

No kidding.

Even though I finally have everything working after my total electrical chop & swap, this BOB has me wanting to rip out my UC400 and BOB and install a 300ETH + UB1, just because. Maybe I can convince myself I can use the 400ETH for a lathe conversion, since that won't need as many inputs as my mill.

With this BOB and the 300, I could start adding an A-axis homing switch, separate tool and spindle probes, ATC sensors, etc. and stick with the 24VDC system I wanted when I started the conversion.

-S

[Beefy]

No kidding.

Even though I finally have everything working after my total electrical chop & swap, this BOB has me wanting to rip out my UC400 and BOB and install a 300ETH + UB1, just because. Maybe I can convince myself I can use the 400ETH for a lathe conversion, since that won't need as many inputs as my mill.

With this BOB and the 300, I could start adding an A-axis homing switch, separate tool and spindle probes, ATC sensors, etc. and stick with the 24VDC system I wanted when I started the conversion.

-S

Likewise, I really like this new board.

For my UC3000ETH I've already bought more moneys worth of Peter Homanns breakout boards (one per port). They are a good configurable board but have no opto isolation. I even made up my own opto isolator PCB to add to it all.

I have each one connected with a ribbon cable, and overall it looks a bit messy and takes up room, and that means I need a larger enclosure. This new board kills a lot of birds with one stone.

Like yourself I keep telling myself I can buy this great new board and use my other boards for something else.

Keith.

[robertspark]

Any suggestions of what bob to use with ports 4/5 (pins2-9 set as inputs) and not used / broken out by the ub1, execpt for providing 2x pass though non isolated 26 idc connectors.

I've seen the c10 from cnc4pc.... Any others (shipping to UK +vat+duty a killer on something worth $28usd)

I don't "need" the extra IO's but I'd like them broken out or at least have the provision on the backplate which I'm replanning (given the plan is to use the same control cabinet for plasma, 3x mills, and a lathe in a home garage hobby environment, using 7 drives (one for stand alone neuron thc z-axis control), with compact fanless pc in cabinet )

Thanks

Rob

[ger21]

Any suggestions of what bob to use with ports 4/5 (pins2-9 set as inputs) and not used / broken out by the ub1, execpt for providing 2x pass though non isolated 26 idc connectors.

The C10 is the only one I'm aware of.

I wouldn't mind seeing a UC1-B daughter board that plugged into ports 4&5.

[matth]

These are available cheaply via eBay:

Attachment 369712

[matth]

A better solution would be something cheap and simple like this as it would give you full opto isolation:

Attachment 369716


Less tha £15 delivered to the UK.

[matth]

Longer term I'd like to see a UB2 that was bigger and gave access to all the IO.
I understand that the Ub1 is a modification of the MB2 and I'm sure that is so that vrasak could bring it to market faster.

[robertspark]

The C10 is the only one I'm aware of.

I wouldn't mind seeing a UC1-B daughter board that plugged into ports 4&5.

Me too... Uc1 seems well thought-out sure a uc1-b would be equally well thought out

[ger21]

Longer term I'd like to see a UB2 that was bigger and gave access to all the IO.

I would have preferred that as well, but now that the UB1 is finished, I'm not sure if a UB2 would be financially viable.

A two port daughter board would be cheaper to develop and produce, and would be a nice compliment to the UB1.

We'll have to see how many UB1's get sold.

[robertspark]

These are available cheaply via eBay:

I did look at these, but kind of like to operate at 24v with my IO's (non-drive Step & Direct signals) for noise immunity.... they also offer no optoisolation.

A better solution would be something cheap and simple like this as it would give you full opto isolation:




Less tha £15 delivered to the UK.

Problem with both these boards is pins 2-9 are outputs..... not inputs..... [need the ECP/EPP pin config bob and not standard LPT bob which these two are]

I did consider turning the chips around.... I'll go and have a look at the bottom one as I have one knocking around in the garage in my cnc bits box...

a daughter board would in my opinion be a better solution, probably as a single ECP/EPP board so if you have two ports you wish to breakout you can use two....

I would like one that broke out both ports 4&5 although I suspect that the market will be small and most people will buy a UB1 and leave it at that....

Rob

[ger21]

Yeah, if Weerasak is interested, I'd like a 2 port, 24V daughterboard, with the 26 inputs, and the second charge pump signal.

[matth]

I did look at these, but kind of like to operate at 24v with my IO's (non-drive Step & Direct signals) for noise immunity.... they also offer no optoisolation.




Problem with both these boards is pins 2-9 are outputs..... not inputs..... [need the ECP/EPP pin config bob and not standard LPT bob which these two are]

I did consider turning the chips around.... I'll go and have a look at the bottom one as I have one knocking around in the garage in my cnc bits box...

a daughter board would in my opinion be a better solution, probably as a single ECP/EPP board so if you have two ports you wish to breakout you can use two....

I would like one that broke out both ports 4&5 although I suspect that the market will be small and most people will buy a UB1 and leave it at that....

Rob

You could use an MB2

[robertspark]

Yeah, if Weerasak is interested, I'd like a 2 port, 24V daughterboard, with the 26 inputs, and the second charge pump signal.

Well, he's got two sales there.... as I'd buy one [... I wonder if he does small order bespoke BoB's as I have something I'd like prototyping and making and will pay $$ for...]

You could use an MB2

... hmm that may work...

[spumco]

Yeah, if Weerasak is interested, I'd like a 2 port, 24V daughterboard, with the 26 inputs, and the second charge pump signal.

I'm swooning.

[ger21]

The UB-1 is now available for purchase. There is a limited number available from the first production run.

[vrasak]

Hi Friends,

Yes, There are only 38 units for the first production run.
I will put the UB1 manual beta version on the product page soon.
Thank you for your patient. I hope that you will like it.

Weerasak