[strikermed]

Quick update: I did test this on a seperate 15 amp outlet with GFCI protection (No AFCI) and it worked perfectly fine. It sounds like I have some kind of nuisance issue. A similar issue happens on rare occasions with my Air compressor. I think my only solution is to swap the breaker out unless someone on here has some advice? I have a feeling that just the nature of a motor makes something like an AFCI trip. What I'm confused by is that my Saw stop table saw runs just fine on the exact same circuit (same outlet mind you). Wish I could track this issue down.

FIX FOR ARC FAULT: So my bottom line problem was anytime my hyuang vfd was powered up whether it was on an arc fault circuit or just a GFCI circuit, I would have some kind of trip. When it was on the Arc Fault, when I powered the spindle it would trip... When it was on the GFCI, and I just had the VFD powered on, but I attempted to trun on a device, say my dust collector or table saw, which reliably have been on arc faults for over a year, those arc fault breakers would now trip when trying to power them up...

I've been doing a lot of research and tried out a 20amp run of the mill EMI filter form amazon. It takes a ground, hot, and neutral. Luckily I didn't try installing this, but just installed it with some jumpers, because it would have been a waste of time. That did not fix the problem like so many have said would help.

The reason for considering an EMI filter is because the VFD puts out a lot of EMI and RFI, and it tricks the arc fault into tripping. To find out more about arc faults go google it, there is a lot of information on how they work out there, and it's quite interesting.

The solution I found. First a quick story: I was walking through costco, and decided to take a look at those battery backups (I use them on all my computer and server gear.) I knew they conditioned power, and I didn't know if that meant that they just provide a reliable voltage, or if it does anymore. What I discovered on the box was an EMI filter.... That's made a light bulb go off. I bought the cheap $50 version and brought it home. I plugged the guy in, USED THE SURGE side of the unit and Wamo! Perfect, everything functioned as it should. This made me think, well I could try reverting the breaker back to arc fault. I did the quick change, and Yatzee! Everything still worked.

A few words of caution with this, and it's information that Myrtec has mentioned as well.

This is not a solution for everyone. I wish I knew what kind of EMI filters they used in the Cyber Power units, because it would be nice just to include a 20amp version in my control unit. I've done thorough testing on amperage and voltage of my unit starting up, underload, and every scenario I can think of, and I haven't peaked over 4.6 amps, and I haven't see more than 360 watts. Thus my machine is small. I have 110V system, with what is claimed to be a 2.2K spindle. It can go up to 24000RPM, and the spindle is rated at 8amp. In this scenario, I have plenty of headroom to plug this unit into the power surge side of this unit. I would not suggest plugging into the battery because you could potentially do damage to it.

This answered all my problems. I wish I could have a filter inside the case that could work, and I may still look for one, but the one I used had these ratings so you are aware of what didn't work:

L:4x0.5mH, CX:3x0.1 uF, R:1M ohms, CY2x3300pF It's a 115/250V~20A 50/60Hz unit model JRW1220-22 Jin Rong Brand. This unit did NOT work, so if someone has another unit that does work for this please list it below.

As for a higher power spindle, mine cuts what I'm trying to cut right now... If I find I can't cut something, I'll consider upgrading to a 220V option down the road for more torque.

[mactec54]

FIX FOR ARC FAULT: So my bottom line problem was anytime my hyuang vfd was powered up whether it was on an arc fault circuit or just a GFCI circuit, I would have some kind of trip. When it was on the Arc Fault, when I powered the spindle it would trip... When it was on the GFCI, and I just had the VFD powered on, but I attempted to trun on a device, say my dust collector or table saw, which reliably have been on arc faults for over a year, those arc fault breakers would now trip when trying to power them up...

I've been doing a lot of research and tried out a 20amp run of the mill EMI filter form amazon. It takes a ground, hot, and neutral. Luckily I didn't try installing this, but just installed it with some jumpers, because it would have been a waste of time. That did not fix the problem like so many have said would help.

The reason for considering an EMI filter is because the VFD puts out a lot of EMI and RFI, and it tricks the arc fault into tripping. To find out more about arc faults go google it, there is a lot of information on how they work out there, and it's quite interesting.

The solution I found. First a quick story: I was walking through costco, and decided to take a look at those battery backups (I use them on all my computer and server gear.) I knew they conditioned power, and I didn't know if that meant that they just provide a reliable voltage, or if it does anymore. What I discovered on the box was an EMI filter.... That's made a light bulb go off. I bought the cheap $50 version and brought it home. I plugged the guy in, USED THE SURGE side of the unit and Wamo! Perfect, everything functioned as it should. This made me think, well I could try reverting the breaker back to arc fault. I did the quick change, and Yatzee! Everything still worked.

A few words of caution with this, and it's information that Myrtec has mentioned as well.

This is not a solution for everyone. I wish I knew what kind of EMI filters they used in the Cyber Power units, because it would be nice just to include a 20amp version in my control unit. I've done thorough testing on amperage and voltage of my unit starting up, underload, and every scenario I can think of, and I haven't peaked over 4.6 amps, and I haven't see more than 360 watts. Thus my machine is small. I have 110V system, with what is claimed to be a 2.2K spindle. It can go up to 24000RPM, and the spindle is rated at 8amp. In this scenario, I have plenty of headroom to plug this unit into the power surge side of this unit. I would not suggest plugging into the battery because you could potentially do damage to it.

This answered all my problems. I wish I could have a filter inside the case that could work, and I may still look for one, but the one I used had these ratings so you are aware of what didn't work:

L:4x0.5mH, CX:3x0.1 uF, R:1M ohms, CY2x3300pF It's a 115/250V~20A 50/60Hz unit model JRW1220-22 Jin Rong Brand. This unit did NOT work, so if someone has another unit that does work for this please list it below.

As for a higher power spindle, mine cuts what I'm trying to cut right now... If I find I can't cut something, I'll consider upgrading to a 220V option down the road for more torque.

Yes if you had asked I would of given you the correct EMI Power filter to buy, they don't cost much and is what you should be using, I looked up the one you brought it should of worked if you had it wired correctly the diagram does look a little strange though

What I recommend is this Power Filter and they work, they also must be wired correct no temporary jumper setup that is not acceptable

TDK Lambada RSEN-2030L

You lucked out that you can even run it if it is only drawing 360Ws you most likely can stop it with your hand, but I would not try this as you will smoke if you did

[mactec54]

Did you check the Ground wire at the spindle 4th pin to the spindle body this is a common problem also that the Ground is not connected in the spindle and this has to be
corrected

All 3 wires must be connected to the Power Filter Load / Hot Neutral and Ground both sides

[strikermed]

Yes if you had asked I would of given you the correct EMI Power filter to buy, they don't cost much and is what you should be using, I looked up the one you brought it should of worked if you had it wired correctly the diagram does look a little strange though

What I recommend is this Power Filter and they work, they also must be wired correct no temporary jumper setup that is not acceptable

TDK Lambada RSEN-2030L

You lucked out that you can even run it if it is only drawing 360Ws you most likely can stop it with your hand, but I would not try this as you will smoke if you did

Oh, I thought I was clear in finding a solution haha.... As for spindle power, I guess cutting materials harder than wood will prove the power issue... I have been able to do several test cuts without issue. More testing will tell...

[strikermed]

Did you check the Ground wire at the spindle 4th pin to the spindle body this is a common problem also that the Ground is not connected in the spindle and this has to be
corrected

All 3 wires must be connected to the Power Filter Load / Hot Neutral and Ground both sides

Yes, i corrected this issue. My spindle is grounded using the 4th pin. I had to open up the spindle connector, add the wire and connect it to the housing, and I verified the connection with a multimeter. Spindle is grounded, and the VFD is grounded as well. There must just be a lot of noise (EMI/RFI) coming off the VFD. I suppose it's coming down the Neutral wire in this case. Since the neutrals all eventually get shared on the neutral bar (after passing through the Arc fault breaker) I suppose it was causing the trip on the other circuit. As of now the problem has been resolved. Mactec54 has an interesting suggestions for a filter, but I need to find the equivalent 110V filter.

[mactec54]

Yes, i corrected this issue. My spindle is grounded using the 4th pin. I had to open up the spindle connector, add the wire and connect it to the housing, and I verified the connection with a multimeter. Spindle is grounded, and the VFD is grounded as well. There must just be a lot of noise (EMI/RFI) coming off the VFD. I suppose it's coming down the Neutral wire in this case. Since the neutrals all eventually get shared on the neutral bar (after passing through the Arc fault breaker) I suppose it was causing the trip on the other circuit. As of now the problem has been resolved. Mactec54 has an interesting suggestions for a filter, but I need to find the equivalent 110V filter.

You don't have a 110v NA has been 120v for around 53 years time to drop the 110v Bs

The filter will be fine for any Voltage up to it's max of 250v so 120v / 240v single Phase will be fine

The only place a Neutral is shared is at the service entrance Mains supply, they are isolated at all other sub boxes, if it is not you have an electrical code violation

VFD Drives are very noisy, if your shielded cable from the VFD Drive to the spindle is not correctly installed, then you can expect to get many problems Shield Termination is very important that it is done correctly or it will be a problem which causes most of the problems with VFD Drive installs

[strikermed]

You don't have a 110v NA has been 120v for around 53 years time to drop the 110v Bs

The filter will be fine for any Voltage up to it's max of 250v so 120v / 240v single Phase will be fine

The only place a Neutral is shared is at the service entrance Mains supply, they are isolated at all other sub boxes, if it is not you have an electrical code violation

VFD Drives are very noisy, if your shielded cable from the VFD Drive to the spindle is not correctly installed, then you can expect to get many problems Shield Termination is very important that it is done correctly or it will be a problem which causes most of the problems with VFD Drive installs

My apologies, I guess I've always called it 110, but I read it 115 and 120 everywhere... I meter it at 120 haha...

As for grounding the spindle, I'm 99% positive (I'm not a electrical engineer) I have this grounded properly. I'll explain my layout so you can tell me otherwise. Coming in from the wall I'm currently filtering through a Cyberpower UPC. Then into the control panel I have ground going to it's own terminal block and I have my neutral and hot going to a power switch. From the power switch neutral and hot go to their own separate terminal blocks. Going to the VFD, I have Ground, Hot and Neutral. On the VFD, R get's hot, T get's neutral, and the ground obviously get's ground (That's the ground screw, not the auxiliary ground posts on either corner of the VFD. From there I have my spindle wires in a (shielded cable) wired up to UVW. Now I have a 4th wire that I have available in that cable, so I dedicated that to my ground and I tied that in on the same grounding lug that the wire from the grounding wiring block is hooked up to. I also have a dedicated ground in that cable which i hooked up to the extra grounding terminal on the VFD, allowing my shielding to work. That cable directly runs to the spindle (no bulk head connectors to worry about grounding).

At the spindle I've added a wire to the 4th pin which had no wire present, then I sandwiched that between the connector faceplate, making sure I make contact with the screw so it grounds the spindle (which i verified with a multimeter). With my pin making connection with the spindle body, I can now take my cable and plug it in so that the newly created grounding pin is linked back to the grounding terminal on the VFD. In addition, the dedicated wire for the shielding is wrapped around the metal aeronautical plug's cable clamp ensuring that's grounded...

Now as I'm writing this, I'm realizing I may have gone over kill with grounding, because of this.... I've grounded the spindle via the 4th wire, that also grounds the connector. I've also grounded the Spindle cable and connector with the shielding wire. When I make the connection to the spindle with the shielded cable, I'm not essentially connecting the ground in a big loop. I've either gone overboard with my grounding, or I've potentially caused an issue.

Any thoughts on this. What I don't trust is the shielded wire to keep a consistent connection due to the fact that it's not soldered or screwed down. it's literally just wrapped round the cable clamp on the connector. So if I had to remove one of the links, I would remove the cable clamp link and shrink wrap, or tape it off.

[mactec54]

My apologies, I guess I've always called it 110, but I read it 115 and 120 everywhere... I meter it at 120 haha...

As for grounding the spindle, I'm 99% positive (I'm not a electrical engineer) I have this grounded properly. I'll explain my layout so you can tell me otherwise. Coming in from the wall I'm currently filtering through a Cyberpower UPC. Then into the control panel I have ground going to it's own terminal block and I have my neutral and hot going to a power switch. From the power switch neutral and hot go to their own separate terminal blocks. Going to the VFD, I have Ground, Hot and Neutral. On the VFD, R get's hot, T get's neutral, and the ground obviously get's ground (That's the ground screw, not the auxiliary ground posts on either corner of the VFD. From there I have my spindle wires in a (shielded cable) wired up to UVW. Now I have a 4th wire that I have available in that cable, so I dedicated that to my ground and I tied that in on the same grounding lug that the wire from the grounding wiring block is hooked up to. I also have a dedicated ground in that cable which i hooked up to the extra grounding terminal on the VFD, allowing my shielding to work. That cable directly runs to the spindle (no bulk head connectors to worry about grounding).

At the spindle I've added a wire to the 4th pin which had no wire present, then I sandwiched that between the connector faceplate, making sure I make contact with the screw so it grounds the spindle (which i verified with a multimeter). With my pin making connection with the spindle body, I can now take my cable and plug it in so that the newly created grounding pin is linked back to the grounding terminal on the VFD. In addition, the dedicated wire for the shielding is wrapped around the metal aeronautical plug's cable clamp ensuring that's grounded...

Now as I'm writing this, I'm realizing I may have gone over kill with grounding, because of this.... I've grounded the spindle via the 4th wire, that also grounds the connector. I've also grounded the Spindle cable and connector with the shielding wire. When I make the connection to the spindle with the shielded cable, I'm not essentially connecting the ground in a big loop. I've either gone overboard with my grounding, or I've potentially caused an issue.

Any thoughts on this. What I don't trust is the shielded wire to keep a consistent connection due to the fact that it's not soldered or screwed down. it's literally just wrapped round the cable clamp on the connector. So if I had to remove one of the links, I would remove the cable clamp link and shrink wrap, or tape it off.

It's always a problem at the spindle end with shield termination some photos would be good as you may have a problem all shields must be terminated direct with a clamp to the Ground plane, Grounds should only be connected to a Bus or a Stud being Star point Ground this can be mounted anywhere on the Ground Plane some snips to help of how they should be connected

Ground Plane is the metal plate that everything is mounted on, by having a Bus mounted on the Ground plane all Grounds are then connected at this one point

These Spindle plugs are a real problem some use a direct connect which is best and you can then use a cable restraint Gland that is for Shielded cables and the shield gets clamped inside the gland connection

An example of a Cable Restraint and shield Clamp attached there are other designs similar to this that could be add to these spindle plugs I have designed one but don't have it in production yet

[mactec54]

The EMI power Filter has to be mounted close as possible to the VFD Drive input power supply to have the best affect