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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Quote Originally Posted by Zumba View Post
    I mean, think about how planers are used. After getting one face jointed flat, you take the other face all the way down to desired thickness using the planer. Every time to take off 1/16-1/8", stress is being relieved from the board. Do you re-face-joint after every pass on the planer? Most people do not... and don't need too....
    No, once you get one face flat with the jointer, you should alternate sides on the planer taking equal amounts from each side until you reach the desired thickness. In a perfect world, you leave it a little big, let it acclimate a few weks, and do it again, but who really has that kind of time.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    1

    Portable planers do a great job for little expense

    We have a 12 yr old Hitachi PR12a that sits next to our Oliver planer and Crescent jointer. It does a beautiful job, especially on 1/8" thick and smaller thicknesses. These are available used for 2-300 hundred dollars on Craigslist.
    We use CNC, Tablesaws, Jointers and yes we even use hand planes.
    Hand work puts a lot of soul into the work.
    Steve

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955

    cnc router to true up some 2x4s

    Hi, I thought I would just extend this thread rather than open up a whole new one.

    First, I have a very small garage, and an even smaller area for wood working tools. This means right now, I only have power hand tools (circular saw, sander, and yes, I do have a chop saw) - no table saw, jointer, planer, etc - and I probably will never have space for those items.

    Second, my use is just hobby / around the house projects. Regardless of my dreams, I am not expecting to achieve world class results - more like paint grade results on a good day.

    I am working on a cnc router in an attempt to use it sort of as a universal tool - regardless of its efficiency and limitations. The way it is designed, at least in theory, it can handle 8 ft items.

    A surprising number of my projects are just made up from home depot / lowes kiln dried 2 x 4s - I know, pretty crude. Nonetheless, I like to take off the splinters, smooth them out, and round out the edges before building anything with them. Currently, I am using a belt sander on the faces, and hand routing a 1/4 round on the edges. This is ok, but not great, and a lot of time and dust.

    I have noticed that a lot of people use router bits designed for skimming a thin layer off of their tables / spoil board to level them out - like this one.

    http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/rc-2257.html

    I have been toying with trying to use something like this to face the 2 x 4s once the cnc router is built. The 1/2 in collet version of these bits are not that wide, so certainly multiple passes are needed - and then the cutting is still across the grain.

    I have also seen 4 inch long router bits that in concept at least, could be set up sort of like a jointer / planer, capable of 2 x 4 use. I realize that the boards would not always end up with 4 flat / square sides, but if you saw how my hand sanding is coming out, you can imagine that anything might be better.

    Besides the obvious - a planer and jointer would be better aspect, is there anything fundametal that I am missing ?

    Thanks

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    IMO there are things left to regular power tools. That amana spoilboard surfacer is expensive, probably two would get you a lunchbox style planer and one a benchtop jointer. Using a cnc router to replace a planer/jointer just doesn't sound economical to me. How much space are you limited to?

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Quote Originally Posted by harryn View Post

    I have noticed that a lot of people use router bits designed for skimming a thin layer off of their tables / spoil board to level them out - like this one.

    http://www.amanatool.com/bits-fv/rc-2257.html

    I have been toying with trying to use something like this to face the 2 x 4s once the cnc router is built. The 1/2 in collet version of these bits are not that wide, so certainly multiple passes are needed - and then the cutting is still across the grain.

    I have also seen 4 inch long router bits that in concept at least, could be set up sort of like a jointer / planer, capable of 2 x 4 use. I realize that the boards would not always end up with 4 flat / square sides, but if you saw how my hand sanding is coming out, you can imagine that anything might be better.

    Besides the obvious - a planer and jointer would be better aspect, is there anything fundametal that I am missing ?

    Thanks
    You'll find with your first method that unless you take very light passes, it's easy for one of the edges to get a lot of tearout, due to the direction of the cutter rotation.

    And when trying to use a long, straight bit as a jointer, runout becomes a problem, as well at tool flex. If you can minimize the runout, it may work, but you'll get a LOT of chatter due to lack of rigidity and tool flex. The shorter the tool, the better the results, whether handheld router or CNC router.

    I'd recommend finding a used 12" portable planer on Ebay. You can probably pick one up for around $100 if you wait long enough. They'll make short work of cleaning up 2x4's. And they usually give an exceptional finish. My old Delta does, and I've had it for 15 years. Oh, yeah. It's smaller than a chopsaw, too.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    Quote Originally Posted by bp092 View Post
    IMO there are things left to regular power tools. That amana spoilboard surfacer is expensive, probably two would get you a lunchbox style planer and one a benchtop jointer. Using a cnc router to replace a planer/jointer just doesn't sound economical to me. How much space are you limited to?

    Thank you for the reply. Space is very limited. The cnc router project is a hobby, so while its economics are important, its price viability vs a small planer is not the issue. While those bits are expensive, they replacement blades are not bad. I am not sure if they just self align when replaced or if there is more to it.

    Space - if I had space, I would (want to) buy many things. Basically, there is no space - I hang the chop saw on its side on the wall when not in use. The cnc router is being designed with a vertical Y axis and horizotal X x Z axis to reduce space consumption, if that gives you a hint. It is a small 2 car garage, with wife's car, kid's bikes and other stuff sharing it.

    GER21 - Those are good technical points about chatter. As far as smaller than a dewalt portable chop saw - maybe - certainly not when I hang it on the wall.

    Maybe I should rig a small portable belt sander up with some 40 grit on the cnc ? jk. So now the task is - can I shoe horn a small planer into the cnc frame ? Maybe.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I've seen people rig up some pulleys and hoist there planers up to the ceiling when not in use.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    I've seen people rig up some pulleys and hoist there planers up to the ceiling when not in use.
    Thanks Gerry - but - it is only an 8 ft ceiling, and almost 1.5 ft of it is already in use. There are already cabinets built into the ceiling area, and my bike hangs down from a rope as well.

    When I get some things caught up, I will post some router pics and how it is shaped to just fit on the build thread.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    1

    Re: Jointer question

    Hey,

    Actually I don't have much idea about the portable jointer and I want to know a-lot about it. I am a hobbyist of woodworking and doing some home projects on my own. Therefor, I read many blogs about jointer like benchtop jointer reviews and it helps me too much. Can you share with me a good tutorial regarding this?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    1

    best benchtop jointer

    One of the best benchtop jointer options, the Porter-Cable offering, comes with a variable speed. You have access to variable speed of 6000 to 11000 rpm. You can choose the right speed based on the hardness of the material and the type of finish you are looking for. https://bestjointer.co/best-benchtop-jointer/

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3
    Zowwie---- Short answer is "yes" you can use a jointer to SQUARE 4 sides of a board. That doesnt mean you wont have a tapered workpiece. If your jointer fence is adjusted properly to 90 degrees (as it should be most times) and you hold the workpiece tight to the fence you will achieve a 90 degree "square" edge. repeat this all the way around holding the "square" edge to the fence = ta-daaa = My preferred method is to thickness plane, then joint one edge, then rip to 1/32" proud, then joint that edge.
    Plus one on used tools. If you have the space I would recommend an 8" jointer. (nice long bed) On a budget, get a 4" benchtop or 6" stationary. Or a handheld "planer" They all work the same.

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