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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    503

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by jgwentworth96 View Post
    Your previous post before I mentioned the "getCommonCycle(x, y, (cycle.bottom*-1+cycle.clearance))"worked well enough for us. We desperately need to be able to use drill ops right now.
    Because much of my drilling consists of selected points I have always been in the habit of defining my drill depths, in this case cycle.depth worked correctly. After messing around it is clear your code was more reliable.

    I updated the post to use your code.
    getCommonCycle(x, y, (cycle.bottom*-1+cycle.clearance))

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    48

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Good job on the restoration. I love the repaint of the factory "Torq cut". Is that something you would mind sharing with those of us that need to freshen up theirs on the outside? Cleaning out the mess on the inside brought back fond memories of cleaning mine when I first got it. Except it was covered in black Lead slime from cutting lead for x ray machines most of its life. I need to do something like you did with the computer so I can easily transfer large files onto the mill.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    14

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by zane View Post
    Good job on the restoration. I love the repaint of the factory "Torq cut". Is that something you would mind sharing with those of us that need to freshen up theirs on the outside? Cleaning out the mess on the inside brought back fond memories of cleaning mine when I first got it. Except it was covered in black Lead slime from cutting lead for x ray machines most of its life. I need to do something like you did with the computer so I can easily transfer large files onto the mill.
    Thanks zane. And sorry for my delay in getting back to you. We are right in the middle of our robotics season at the moment so things are pretty crazy! The machine has been serving us VERY well. At some point Josh or I will have to post pictures of the fun things we've been able to produce so far.

    As for the logos. Yes, I suppose I can share the logo recreations! Attached is a zip file containing: a .png of the Bridgeport logo and a .png, .eps, and .pdf of the TorqCut 22 logo that I had an artist recreate. I measured the following based off the original logos on the machine when printing them:
    Bridgeport Logo: 15.25" x 2.75"
    TorqCut Logo: 15.25" x 6.25"
    Small TorqCut Logo on spindle: 8.5" x 3.0"
    (When printing keep in mind these measurements are WxH from outside edge to outside edge of each logo and they do not account for the white space in the attached images.)

    And I highly recommend networking the computer. I networked the computer before we ever ran any of our parts, but from using the floppy method for initial tests I can tell you the networking is definitely worth it!

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    48

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Thanks for the files! I might have to bug you in awhile about doing the networking. First though I have to finish wiring up the home shop to move the mill into.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    3

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    How slow and complicated is it to remove the enclosure like you did for power washing?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    49

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    You have to take the control pendant off of the boom and then loosten the boom at the back on the casting so that you can lift the enclosure up (it fits into troughs in the casting for coolant drainage) and pull it forwards. would definitely recommend having some wheeled carts to put it on and a couple of helpers never hurts

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    14

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by cobraframes View Post
    How slow and complicated is it to remove the enclosure like you did for power washing?
    I'll elaborate a bit more on what Josh said.

    First, to answer your question - the first time through might take a little time, but it's not complicated if you're prepared. Having done it, I feel like it's actually pretty easy. If we wanted it off again I think we could do it in about an hour.

    Tools I suggest:

    • Impact driver with a Philips
    • 2 platform dolly's/similar
    • A 2x4 board, or other long pry bar
    • 2-3 people


    The steps to take are as follows:

    1. Center the table in the machine in the X-axis, move it towards the back in the Y. Raise the Z axis all the way up. (our machine was turned off centered in the X and Y and we couldn't power it up prior to doing this work - If anything, just don't have the table towards the front of the machine.)
    2. Remove control pendant
      • Remove the pendant back panel, disconnect jog dial and switch harness, monitor signal and power, and ground wire, etc.
      • Remove the little plate at the front of the boom, with the cover removed fish all of the wires out of the front of the boom.
      • The pendant should be able to slide forward to come off

    3. Loosen the boom
      • As Josh mentioned to get the enclosure off you have to hold the boom up a little. We ran a ratchet strap up to the ceiling to support the front of the boom and hold it up at an angle during the duration of our work. If your space allows I'd run the strap, then remove all the bolts for the support strut towards the front of the machine. At the back of the boom there are 4 bolts into the casting, remove the bottom 2 and one on the top, loosen the 4th to give you enough to angle the boom. We later learned our 4th bolt had fallen out at some point, thankfully the wires weren't pinched or anything while it was supported like this. Not what I'd recommend, but it worked for us.

    4. Remove the top plates of the enclosure. These are a bunch of long phillips bolts, the nut is encapsulated on the panels. I suggest using an impact driver if you can to crack them loose. Despite our best efforts several of our bolts stripped out. When that happened we used a Dremel to cut through the bolt from inside of the machine.
    5. Disconnect the door lockout switch harness
      • On top of the casting extension that supports the tool changer is a plate that just rests on top. If you remove that there should be a wire with a coupler that goes to the door lockout switch. Disconnect this.

    6. Unbolt the rear panels
      • The enclosure is basically three sided with the back consisting of 2 large panels and two smaller panels at the bottom, plus a few miscellaneous plates to keep coolant contained in the casting channels. Basically remove every screw you can find along the back of the machine. Don't worry about the panels falling, the large rear panels bolt into the casting from inside the machine along the Z-axis rails. It'll be easiest to take those out after the rest of the enclosure is off.

    7. Final prep
      • Our machine had caulking around the casting near the coolant drain mesh. I don't know if this is standard or not, but I suggest taking a razor blade and/or putty knife and scraping/cutting some of this off to help the enclosure break loose.
      • Unhook sensor. There is a risk of hitting a sensor wire that sticks out the side of the tool changer when removing the enclosure. I suggest unhooking it. Inside the left access door if you look up you'll see a connection on the side of the tool changer, this should just unscrew to disconnect. Have someone keep an eye on this when removing/installing to avoid hitting it too hard.

    8. Now you're ready to remove!
      • You have to lift the front of the enclosure up at least 0.5"-1" to get the sheet metal bends that stick down into the coolant troughs to clear. We had one guy with a 2x4 (or maybe a 4x4…) wedge underneath each side of the enclosure, lift it up a little and put our dolly's underneath both front feet. We had a guy on each rear corner to push/somewhat lift the rear. With enough wiggling and stuff it came right off.

    9. Once the main enclosure is off you have a little better access to the bolts that keep the large rear panels on. Take those loose with someone supporting the weight of each panel and you'll have a TorqCut minus the enclosure!


    You can re-assemble in the reverse order. I will say when we put it back on slid the main enclosure on and then installed the rear panels. Either way you do it, you're going to have to have the large rear panels loose and then lean into the machine to tighten them once you get everything lined back up.

    Don't forget to install the little plates that go near the coolant troughs! We did, and turns out those little things help prevent a lot of coolant from subtly from leaking out.

    So there you have it, our 9 steps to removing the enclosure.

    Fair warning, I'm saying all of this from memory without looking at the machine, it's entirely possible I forgot something, but that should get you 90% there.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    3

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by pts211 View Post


    I'll elaborate a bit more on what Josh said.

    Thanks a bunch! I'm buying and moving a TC-22 and I was considering taking the enclosure off at the seller's site and I don't think I'll have to now but it's really helpful to know what it involves and that it's not terribly hard when you are prepared.

    Do you have any pictures of how you chained it down to the trailer when you moved it? I am renting a 10,000lb tandem axle tilt bed trailer from Sunbelt Rentals and I think I'll have it loaded with the front of the machine facing the rear of the trailer. I will pass a chain through the passage way in the base casting by the front leveling screws (I believe you can pass a 2" round bar through there according to the manual) and I will put a chain through the high cross hole on the main column as well. That should allow me to really get a pretty decent hold of it on the trailer. Unfortunately the machine doesn't have handy d-rings for chaining it down during transit, hah. I'll take a bunch of pictures of the process. Maybe I'll start a thread on here or PM about the move. I have moved my manual bridgeport myself and that was mostly a breeze with the right trailer rental, pallet jack, come along, patience. This is 3x heavier but it's all the same principles so I'm hoping for a similar outcome with a few additional pieces to the puzzle and a heavier trailer etc.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    14

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by cobraframes View Post
    Do you have any pictures of how you chained it down to the trailer when you moved it?
    First off - sorry for not getting back earlier. Unfortunately, I don't have any good pictures of how it was chained down since the truck driver did it while another of our guy assisted. Here's the best picture I have, we had to take our rental forklift with us to unload at our shop so we just kept the forks under the machine and chained both down to the trailer.



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails TorqCut22_Loading.jpg  

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    3

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Thanks for the help. I moved my new machine 300 miles to my shop and unloaded it without a forklift. It was slow but successful. We rented a 10,000lb trailer from Sunbelt that has a tilt bed and we were able to just slide it off the trailer directly onto my shop floor. Next time I move it I'm going to have a winch and designated anchor points so we don't have to slide the machine 3" at a time with a 12 ton bottle jack. Unloading took four hours but it worked, felt safe, and we saved thousands over the quote from the riggers on delivering it to my shop with a forklift and a bunch of steel plates for the soft driveway outside of my shop. Thanks for the help! I'll be documenting the process to some degree and I'll start a thread here or on PM I think about it. And on Instagram @cobraframes

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    48

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    You can remove the enclosure without removing the control panel. You do have to unbolt the arm from where it is attached to the main casting. I swung it to the side and suspended it from a large A frame ladder and a ratchet strap. (strap it before unbolting it.) After the enclosure is removed rebolt the arm.

    When I purchased my mill I was able to rent a drop deck trailer. They are a little hard to find but has hydraulics on the suspension that allows it to drop flat on the ground. The mill fit with about 1/2" to spare as the trailer does have sides. Measure carefully before committing to a trailer! Be careful with a tilt bed to not tip the mill over! The shop that owned my mill before me did that with his forklift while moving it outside. Luckily there was a large shelving system right there that stopped the fall and only dented the control box in the back.

    My Mill also has silicone all over between the enclosure and the casting. Originally they had a rubber weather stripping but I imagine most were tossed in favor of a more positive coolant stop. I cleaned off the areas with brake cleaner prior to silicone and it has held up fine.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    107

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Thanks for sharing your artwork... It looks great and I'm envious of your work!

    I'm almost finished repairing all the little things on my 1996 TC 22 and the paint on the cabinet is just as bad as yours was.. Thanks for blazing the trail and showing how easy it is to remove the cabinet. I have a friend that could probably sand blast my cabinet for about 200.00. I seriously going to talk to him about it. I think I'll take a cover and go see if the sandblasting is going to roughen up the metal too much...

    Great Job on your machine!

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    14

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_Watkins View Post
    Thanks for sharing your artwork... It looks great and I'm envious of your work!

    I'm almost finished repairing all the little things on my 1996 TC 22 and the paint on the cabinet is just as bad as yours was.. Thanks for blazing the trail and showing how easy it is to remove the cabinet. I have a friend that could probably sand blast my cabinet for about 200.00. I seriously going to talk to him about it. I think I'll take a cover and go see if the sandblasting is going to roughen up the metal too much...

    Great Job on your machine!
    Steve I'm glad to hear our experience has been helpful. For $200 I would be all over getting it sand blasted! So long as you prime/paint it after I can't imagine sand blasting doing anything but helping. I don't have any pictures right now but fair warning, there are a few areas where our paint isn't holding up as well as we wanted. In particular the cast material has bubbling paint here and there (a spot on the z-axis, and some on the table's coolant channels). I suspect these are areas where oils/coolant soaked into the metal over the years that prevent the paint from adhering as it should. For the most part, our enclosure paint is holding up, but even that is starting to show a few problem areas. The biggest problem is on the floor of the cabinet where wet chips collect. I think this is partly because we haven't been as diligent as we should be at cleaning chips from the machine, the lack of a wash down hose makes it difficult at times. I think we might be rigging a wash down hose in the future to rinse things off.

    We did prime and then paint the interior of the enclosure using the Rustoleum Enamel line of primer and paint on the inside. If we were to do it again I think I'd try to sandblast, and then do multiple coats of primer and paint. I might look into different paint, but I don't think that is the problem so much as the surface we were applying it to and the thickness of the coats.

  14. #34
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    107

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    My machine has a washdown hose already... Pretty simple with a T in the line where the pipe exits the pump on the way inside the cabinet. They installed the T, and then a ball valve that controls a hose, routed to the front of the cabinet... 50.00 would give you a nice setup

    I have nothing but bad things to say about Rustoleum!

    When it's time I'm going to consult my salesman at Sherwin Williams. Be advised there are different types of Sherwin Williams stores and not all have the same paints or experts.. Here in Houston I have a Sherwin Williams Industrial Coating Store. They have a lot of specialty paints for industry and rough service... We'll see what they say.. I use a special water based coating from them for all my exterior metal painting. It's about 145.00 a gallon but well worth it.

    On the sandblasting I'm a little concerned that the metal will be really roughed up by the sand they use. Too rough and the surface will not be easy to clean and chips will stick. On some of the car rebuilding shows they send cars they are rebuilding to be soda blasted.. That leaves a nicer metal condition but I'll bet it's expensive.

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    19

    Re: The Broncobots Torq-Cut 22 Restoration

    A question like did to update the DOS and install the window is that I bought a Torq cut 22 a few months ago and I want to update it and make a backup on the hard drive and also buy a solid state disk on module to make the copy of security

    https://bptparts.com/products/1159-8366
    it was not the one that buys but one similar

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