[nodott]

I have purchased the 1/4, 3/8 and the 1/2 TAS EM's from Lake Shore Carbide. I was attempting to use these as an aggressive EM for material removal. After watching NYC CNC video on these cutters with the 1100 I tried to do the same thing but I cannot come anywhere near close to the performance that he showcased in that video.

The best I can get is DOC=0.5" and a WOC=0.05" before this thing screaches like a banshee. I checked the drawbar and that was clean of any lubricants so there should be no slippage coming from that. I even took the tool holder and collet and cleaned them again with acetone just to make sure there was nothing that would cause slippage. Still even after all of that I still get that loud screaching sound to the point where both fogbuster lines are ready to fall off.

Is there anything that I am missing that is preventing me from getting the same level of performance that Saunders was able to achieve.?

Thanks

[syscore]

When you say "clean of lubricants" do you mean entirely clean? There are several spots in the drawbar / collet setup that should have lubricant, and doing so can increase the holding force by 70%. This is detailed in this whitepaper from Tormach ...

https://www.tormach.com/document_dir...tml?doc_id=163

Also, you should lubricate the threads of the ER nut on the TTS tool holder.

[syscore]

Btw, I don't have any Lakeshore cutters, but I have an Accusize 1/2" roughing endmill that gives comparable results to the NYC-CNC videos. It isn't carbide though but does show that you should be able to get results similar to the videos.

https://www.amazon.com/AccusizeTools.../dp/B00VGR6EVK

[kstrauss]

Btw, I don't have any Lakeshore cutters, but I have an Accusize 1/2" roughing endmill that gives comparable results to the NYC-CNC videos. It isn't carbide though but does show that you should be able to get results similar to the videos.

https://www.amazon.com/AccusizeTools.../dp/B00VGR6EVK

That appears to be a 4-flute mill. Does it work well in aluminum? What recipe are you using (DoC, WoC, feed, rpm)?

To the original poster: A squeal is often due to poor clamping of the workpiece particularly if you are trying for high MRR. Have you verified that everything is *VERY* solid?

[joshetect]

If you have a PDB Tighten it so that you have to pull a little to get the holder out when you release it.

Make sure your collet nuts are tightened down good. I actually run all my TAS roughers in setscrew holders (I had them put flats on the endmills, its an option)

[nitewatchman]

With light pre-load on my spindle bearing my machine will squeal also.

[wildwhl]

Personally, I wasn't able to make the 3/8" TAS work any better than the 3/8" YG1 AluPower (about 3.8 MRR on the latter, 3.1 on the former). I found the TAS to be noisy and fragile. I'm sure I could dial it in for better performance but I have such a great and reliable recipe with existing tooling (that is less expensive) I elected not to dig any deeper.

WW

[nodott]

When you say "clean of lubricants" do you mean entirely clean? There are several spots in the drawbar / collet setup that should have lubricant, and doing so can increase the holding force by 70%. This is detailed in this whitepaper from Tormach ...

https://www.tormach.com/document_dir...tml?doc_id=163

Also, you should lubricate the threads of the ER nut on the TTS tool holder.

I was referring to cleaning the lubicants from the TTS collet not the spindle collet.

I have setup the spindle collet as described by the Tormach manual when I bought the machine but decided to do some adjustments on the spindle collet to tighten the hold a little more for the tool holders.

I re-watched that video and noticed that he is using a set screw tool holder. I wonder if that is required with these types of agressive cuts?

[nodott]

That appears to be a 4-flute mill. Does it work well in aluminum? What recipe are you using (DoC, WoC, feed, rpm)?

To the original poster: A squeal is often due to poor clamping of the workpiece particularly if you are trying for high MRR. Have you verified that everything is *VERY* solid?

I did tighten the drawbar some more and then took apart the TTS tool holder and recleaned everything again with acetone just to be sure there is no lubricant or such in the TTS collet. Still was not able to make it work.

However after watching the video again I notice that he was using a set screw holder so I wonder it that is what I need to use instead of the collet setup.

[nodott]

If you have a PDB Tighten it so that you have to pull a little to get the holder out when you release it.

Make sure your collet nuts are tightened down good. I actually run all my TAS roughers in setscrew holders (I had them put flats on the endmills, its an option)

I saw that he was using a set screw holder after re watching the video and was thinking that it might be that difference alone that makes the TAS work so much better. Now after seeing your response about the SS holder I am going to retry with the same recipe.

[jwatte]

"just to be sure there is no lubricant or such in the TTS collet"

That mainly matters for pull-out, not rigidity, as far as I can tell.
Also, it's actually important to have lubricant on the outside of the R8/TTS collet, and on the draw bar screws and the top washer of the draw-bar, as well as on the threads of the ER20 nut. You probably already know, but I thought it worth mentioning just in case.
More likely, as you say, that set screw holders are more rigid.

[mountaindew]

Personally, I wasn't able to make the 3/8" TAS work any better than the 3/8" YG1 AluPower (about 3.8 MRR on the latter, 3.1 on the former). I found the TAS to be noisy and fragile. I'm sure I could dial it in for better performance but I have such a great and reliable recipe with existing tooling (that is less expensive) I elected not to dig any deeper.

WW

I was buying some stuff the other day and could not find the 3/8" YG1 AluPower on Tormach's web site any more. Was going to add a few replacements with my order . I like those cutters.

Also sometimes nycnc uses a specific mist coolant system. This could make for different performance also

[wildwhl]

I was buying some stuff the other day and could not find the 3/8" YG1 AluPower on Tormach's web site any more. Was going to add a few replacements with my order . I like those cutters.

Ebay seller AllIndurstrialToolSupply usually has them: https://www.ebay.com/usr/allindustri...72.m2749.l2754

WW

[AUSTINMACHINING]

I was buying some stuff the other day and could not find the 3/8" YG1 AluPower on Tormach's web site any more. Was going to add a few replacements with my order . I like those cutters.

Also sometimes nycnc uses a specific mist coolant system. This could make for different performance also

Suncoast tools. I buy a lot of yg-1 tools from them.

[Bob La Londe]

Personally, I wasn't able to make the 3/8" TAS work any better than the 3/8" YG1 AluPower (about 3.8 MRR on the latter, 3.1 on the former). I found the TAS to be noisy and fragile. I'm sure I could dial it in for better performance but I have such a great and reliable recipe with existing tooling (that is less expensive) I elected not to dig any deeper.

WW

I have to admit I am a big fan of the Alu-Power end mills for removing material in aluminum. I really like them in HSM approaches. Deeper DOC, low WOC, fast chip thinning feeds.

[IMT]

...However after watching the video again I notice that he was using a set screw holder so I wonder it that is what I need to use instead of the collet setup.

How tight was the ER nut? ER20 should be torqued to 59ft*lb, for sizes over 1/16". I've had better results since I started tightening to that range.

[TonyUFN]

I've been using the 3/8" LSC TAS for a little while now. I had the 1/4 for a very short time until a 3d adaptive ran without me checking again after a change(plunged my vice).
I put it directly into a set-screw holder, choked up to just above the flutes. I haven't tried an ER20.

I've been running 0.65 DOC/0.08 WOC at 70in/min 3750rpm. I set my ramp-down to 12deg(and love how it eats on the way in), but only use a 0.25 radius for the ramp due to one of my parts having some narrow areas. Other parts run the same, but default 0.356 ramp diameter... same result.
I've been happy with it and haven't had any issues(yet).

[jwatte]

I put it directly into a set-screw holder, choked up to just above the flutes.

Aren't you supposed to use the Weldon flats on your cutters when using the set screw holders? That prevents vertical movement. (Well, depending on how big the flats are and how hard you tighten, "too much" vertical movement...)

What material/flute count? That feed/speed sounds like a four-flute in steel, perhaps?

[nodott]

How tight was the ER nut? ER20 should be torqued to 59ft*lb, for sizes over 1/16". I've had better results since I started tightening to that range.

That is one thing that I honestly do not know. I have always used the supplied wrenches that came with the setup when I first bought the unit. I have never actually used any torque wrenches. With that said I do have the the ER20 tool holders tightened as much as I can get them with the default wrench set that I mentioned above. Not sure if I am going to get anything it any more tighter than that.

[GLCarlson]

Aren't you supposed to use the Weldon flats on your cutters when using the set screw holders? That prevents vertical movement. (Well, depending on how big the flats are and how hard you tighten, "too much" vertical movement...)

What material/flute count? That feed/speed sounds like a four-flute in steel, perhaps?

Saunders demonstrated that a Weldon flat wasn't needed, if I recall. But, yes, a flat is a good idea despite that. The value of a flat -on HSS, anyway- is that when (not if) the setscrew makes a burr, it's below the surface. With carbide, I'd bet that the tool itself would crack before a setscrew could make a burr

Note to OP: why not e-mail John? He's always helpful.