[Shawn_M]

deleted duplicate post......

[Miamijerry]

Hey Shawn, good to hear from you.

My rebuild is currently stalled. I have a few projects which got ahead of the rebuild.

There is a lot of extra reinforcement added to my machine already...

Your machine looks great, very professional.

[Shawn_M]

Thanks Jerry, looking forward to see more pics of yours also. I'm waiting on my spoilboard router bit that I ordered so I can flatten out the cutting surface and do some test cuts. It was easy to tram and I have the Z axis plumb within .001" in the x and y direction. Running backlash tests it was dead on nearly every time no matter the distance traveled back and forth. Every once in a while it would be .0005" off. For what I'll be doing I can live with that. I can make my gussets after the spoilboard is flat. I'll cut them out of plastic first to check fit and mounting locations and then out of aluminum for the final ones.

Hope you can get your project back on track soon. Post pics when you can and I'll post pics of my gussets when I have them complete.

Shawn

[Miamijerry]

Shawn

Can you post your motor tuning numbers? and the part number of the upgraded steppers?

Thanks

[Shawn_M]

Sure, I bought 3 NEMA 23 381 oz/in 3.5A Dual Shaft Stepper Motor KL23H2100-35-4B from here:

https://www.automationtechnologiesin...lat-381-oz-in/

My motor tuning numbers are:

X & Y are at 139.98 in/min and Z is at 105 in/min
X & Y have an acceleration of 10 while Z is at 7 ( if I set Z any higher on either setting I was missing steps)

I think the stock motors that came on the machine were 78 mm long and these are 100 mm long. I also replaced the stock spider shaft couplers with all aluminum ones like these from eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Fl...item236d8c917e

So far the G540 with these motors and the inexpensive couplers are working fantastic as I have not had to add any backlash in Mach3. It's turned off and it nails my digital dial indicator EVERYTIME within .0005" coming in from any distance and back. For what I'll be doing this is too much accuracy. :-)

Hope this helps Jerry.

Shawn

[Tribhuwan]

We are exporters of CNC machines, parts and tools
Contact me ASAP
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Anand
Brampton
Canada

[Tribhuwan]

We are exporters of CNC machines, parts and tools
Contact me ASAP
[email protected]
Anand
Brampton
Canada

[Kbob]

Sure, I bought 3 NEMA 23 381 oz/in 3.5A Dual Shaft Stepper Motor KL23H2100-35-4B from here:

https://www.automationtechnologiesin...lat-381-oz-in/

My motor tuning numbers are:

X & Y are at 139.98 in/min and Z is at 105 in/min
X & Y have an acceleration of 10 while Z is at 7 ( if I set Z any higher on either setting I was missing steps)

I think the stock motors that came on the machine were 78 mm long and these are 100 mm long. I also replaced the stock spider shaft couplers with all aluminum ones like these from eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Fl...item236d8c917e

So far the G540 with these motors and the inexpensive couplers are working fantastic as I have not had to add any backlash in Mach3. It's turned off and it nails my digital dial indicator EVERYTIME within .0005" coming in from any distance and back. For what I'll be doing this is too much accuracy. :-)

Hope this helps Jerry.

Shawn

Hello guys,

I registered just to get some follow up on this machine from the bits of data that can be found on it. Which is slim.

I'm looking at possibly buying this machine (HY-6040 /w 5 axis) for some light metal work, obviously of lower hardness, etc. And some wood. I plan to use all 5 axis.

I'm new to CNC but have most of the skill set required to play with this sort of hardware.

I note you say that it can now do 0.0005" repeatability under no load. The stated (!) basic spec of the machine is 0.02mm, which is 0.0008" or thereabouts. So, no load and no backlash, bringing you to about 60% greater repeatability. (My understanding is that it cannot meet that basic spec without some minimal work done on it. I have read all I can find, again, slim to nothing in the real world data department.....)

My question is, of course, how is it working under load?

I've got a fairly decent background in mechanical and acoustical noise control, re solutions, so I might be able to increase accuracy and surface quality under load. To me everything on this planet comes in kit form and needs improvement... and I get in there and figure it out. So I'm not intimidated, but I'd like to get a clear view of the challenges on this one. Gotta know the tripping points of the given challenge, before jumping in.


I get it that these things are like a spring box of land mines (surprise!) and intelligent work is required to get them to work 'right'... and getting the right one with the right path to acceptable results ...is the way to go. As in, saving the wads of cash required for a proper machine... to put in the time and effort... to get a more casual machine that sort-of does it right. Is the trade-off functional? Same question as usual.


I would like the larger work area that this machine affords, but might be able to get away with the Pocket NC, and might swing that way instead if it is going to be better for my primary task, which fits in the XYZ box that the Pocket NC can work with. IF I can't accurize and suss out this HY-6040 puppy well enough, I might have to start looking at the Pocket NC instead.

Thus, it would be nice to know how this bit of expected mod and refitting work, has turned out for you, when the machine is actually in use.

[antosha99]

Found a 48 VDC power supply which fits inside the column of the HY-6040.
Part number EYE-400W-48V-8

WOW, these stepper motors love the increased voltage.
These 57BYGH276-3004A steppers are rated for 3 Amps, torque is 2nm, (282.224 Oz-In)

At 24V in motor tuning the best setting I could get was;
Velocity 60 in/min and Accel 12 in/min, The motors would stall, growl, and miss steps at any higher settings. But this setting seemed SLOW.

At 48v, I was able to increase the settings without any stalling or growl sounds. In fact the sound of the motors is "sweet" now.
Velocity 130.02 in/min and Accel 26 in/min. I stop at this setting because it seems too fast, but no issues with the steppers.

My set up is; Pokeys57cnc controller, five M542T drivers. I have the drivers set to 16 microsteps, 3200 steps/rev. In Mach3 that equaled 16,265.6 steps/in.
I also have the drivers set to limit the stepper max current to 2.8 amps, because the motors are rated for 3 amps.

Comments?

Hi, this power supply should have 8 A output. I am not a specialist at all, but if the motors have 3 amperes each and there are 5 motors, isn‘t it a bit under dimensioned? I was thinking about using a 36v 1000 w power supply. But again, I do not know anything about electric things.


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[antosha99]

Just wrapping up my rebuild and I have the machine running and running great. I have the gussets drawn but not cut or installed yet. I want to cut them on the machine so I needed to get it working first. The G540 and the 381 oz/in motors are awesome. I have the 48 volt power supply as well. After tuning the machine with the new motors and shaft couplers the accuracy is amazing with no backlash compensation needed. I'll have to check my velocity and acceleration and report back. Here are 2 pics of the back with the G540 in the side of the column and the table. The G540 has a CPU fan and heatsink bolted to it inside the column and I added two 60mm fans to the back of the column, the lower one pulling cool air and the top one (not seen in the photo) pushing hot air out. I added t track to the bed and it has 3/4" PVC covering all of it and the MDF is my cutting area and spoilboard.

I actually created the drill file for the bed material with my Vectric software to have the machine drill holes in itself to mount the PVC and the MDF. All holes were drilled after tramming the machine and all I had to do was hand tap them with the 8-32 tap and my Dewalt drill. The PVC is held down with several countersunk machine screws into the aluminum base and the MDF if screwed to the PVC using T nuts in the PVC base. Very easy to change one piece or all the MDF spoilboard when needed.

I utilized all the old holes in the column where the motors connected for all my X, Y and Z limit switch inputs. The old 4th axis input connector is now my auto zero Z touch off plate. That's the black coil cord you see in the pic.

Still a work in progress.

I missed your post about my power supply, it's a Mean Well LRS-350-48. Yours is 8 amps and mine is 7.3. It's the largest one I could get INSIDE the column. Your power supply wouldn't fit as your column is a little wider than mine.

How's yours coming MiamiJerry?

Shawn

Really nice, where did you find the PVC board? Is it rigid enough?


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[RCaffin]

The thing to remember about PS ratings is that you are extremely unlikely to ever pull peak power from all axes at once. Even on a snap back to start (G0), the motors should be able to withstand some drop in voltage.
The message is to not push motor speed and acceleration to the upper limit: always leave a little room.

Cheers
Roger

[antosha99]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c96a8d450a.jpg
52*25 t nut table for rotary axis.


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[antosha99]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c4df163306.jpg
Original table with replaced metallic water tank, when I need to work with metal.


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[Shawn_M]

Sorry for not replying earlier, the PVC board can be bought at Home Depot and Lowes. I had some laying around from a previous job. It works awesome as it can withstand any cutting fluid I may use when cutting metal. Of course the MDF is ruined after a while but that's very easy to change. My machine came with a plexiglass tank just like your metal one.

I have since sold my HY-6040 for a larger more accurate machine, I outgrew the 6040 very quickly but it was a great learning tool.