[jmvar]

I have a chance to bid on a Haas Mini Mill 2, here are the specs and details:

- date of manufacture 04/2010
- 24 tool changer
- 6400 hour of run time

I cut my teeth on a tormach, then moved to a VF2. I lost access to both and I have been looking for a used machine for a while. I have never run this machine and don't know much about it. I think I can get access to it before the bidding ends and I may be able to check things like lost motion in x, y, and z. What would be acceptable lost motion? Is there anything else I can check to see what state it's in?

What would be a fair price for a machine like this assuming it's in decent shape?

Thanks

[ConeGuy]

Even if in pretty good shape bidding more than $15,000 on a Mini Mill 2 would be crazy. IMO.

[mactec54]

I have a chance to bid on a Haas Mini Mill 2, here are the specs and details:

- date of manufacture 04/2010
- 24 tool changer
- 6400 hour of run time

I cut my teeth on a tormach, then moved to a VF2. I lost access to both and I have been looking for a used machine for a while. I have never run this machine and don't know much about it. I think I can get access to it before the bidding ends and I may be able to check things like lost motion in x, y, and z. What would be acceptable lost motion? Is there anything else I can check to see what state it's in?

What would be a fair price for a machine like this assuming it's in decent shape?

Thanks

A 2010 if it was looked after could be easily worth $28,000.00, I'm not sure what you mean by lost motion, if you have used a VF2 of a similar year, then there would be very little difference to using the Mini Mill2 it's just a smaller machine, same control Post some photos

[jmvar]

A 2010 if it was looked after could be easily worth $28,000.00, I'm not sure what you mean by lost motion, if you have used a VF2 of a similar year, then there would be very little difference to using the Mini Mill2 it's just a smaller machine, same control Post some photos

Thanks for the replies. I am probably using the wrong term in lost motion. From what I understand you can check wear on the machine by measuring the difference in the amount that machine is told to move -vs- how much it actually moves. For example, if I set a tenths indicator on the vice and I jog the machine over by tenths increments, but I don't see any movement in the indicator until the control shows I jogged over .0008" I know there is .0008" in lost motion in that axis.

I hope I am explaining myself correctly.

Are there any other tests I can do to check the overall state of the machine?

[mactec54]

Thanks for the replies. I am probably using the wrong term in lost motion. From what I understand you can check wear on the machine by measuring the difference in the amount that machine is told to move -vs- how much it actually moves. For example, if I set a tenths indicator on the vice and I jog the machine over by tenths increments, but I don't see any movement in the indicator until the control shows I jogged over .0008" I know there is .0008" in lost motion in that axis.

I hope I am explaining myself correctly.

Are there any other tests I can do to check the overall state of the machine?

You are checking for Backlash or wear by your description, the machine accuracy is around .0005 new

Look at the fan on the spindle housing see how much crud is up there they get very dirty, if it is clean then all should be good, ask if they have had any of the air valves replaced for which control the Spindle Drawbar, check the Spindle Taper

[ripperj]

Even if in pretty good shape bidding more than $15,000 on a Mini Mill 2 would be crazy. IMO.

Even old ones I have seen go for more than this, not sure how you came up with 15k??


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[metalmayhem]

6400 hrs isn't much for the year of mill . Run the rapids at low rapids then 100% and it'll be a good indicator as to the state of the bearings . Check the taper for damage . The interior paint and window(if original) says a lot about a machines use and how well it's been taken care of . I've worked on a bank of mini mills from around the same year and older , they have many more hours on them and they are still rock solid , well , as solid as you can get from a mini . And to be honest I like the older controls so much more than the new , I hate the newer interfaces

[jmvar]

OK, I am going to check the machine out tomorrow.

I will have to hire a rigger to move it into my garage. Can these be broken down to fit through an 81" garage door?

I see the specs for the newer Mini Mill 2 and I don't think I can fit this in my garage but I am hoping there are work arounds for my size limitations.

Garage has an 81" door, 9 ft ceilings. I see the specs on the newer mini mill 2 state that it can be broken down to 85" and needs a max of 110" or over 9' which would be an issue in my garage.

Your input is greatly appreciated.

[metalmayhem]

I can't say for sure but that sounds about the same as my garage door , and when I was working with them I was wondering if I'd be able to squeeze one into my garage . I think it'll be a bit tight

[jmvar]

I can't say for sure but that sounds about the same as my garage door , and when I was working with them I was wondering if I'd be able to squeeze one into my garage . I think it'll be a bit tight

Is it the garage you are in now? Any chance you can measure to confirm? Thanks

Once the mini kill is in my garage, can I move it around with a pallet jack rated to 5000#?

[Machineit]

Freudian slip, "mini kill." Yes, the pallet jack will work just fine.

[jmvar]

Freudian slip, "mini kill." Yes, the pallet jack will work just fine.

I would request that the rigger not apply the "mini kill" option during the move if this works out, LOL.

I just got back from looking at the machine. Looks rough on the outside, very dirty, inside looks good, no crashes or missing paint on interior sheet metal. Spindle run out was non existent and it moved through all the axes without any funny noises.

My main concern is the height and getting it into my garage. The tool holder sticks out on top of the machine and looks heavy. I would at the very least need to remove it and the sheet metal around it to clear my garage door. I couldn't get up close to it to measure the height, and I can't find the total height online anywhere.

Does anyone know if this can be take off, and if so how hard that would be? Here is a pic I found online, this is not the mill for sale, just one I found of the exact same example. You can see how tall the tool holder carousel is:

[precisionmetal]

That side-mounted tool carousel may cause you some height issues, not only in getting it through the door, but once it's inside and reassembled.

You mentioned a 9' ceiling inside and an 81" door -- can you grab a couple of 2x4s, saw them off to 9' long, and connect the ends with a piece of string? Then you can get someone to hold the other one and "walk" that string over the top of the machine and see how it's going to look for clearance. Do you know the Z travel on the machine? I have a SuperMini Mill with 10" of Z, and in my 8' ceiling garage, the Z axis goes quite a ways up between two floor joists when I start up (home) the machine.

One thing that I would look at is the original manual that came with the machine, if the seller has it. "Usually" there should be a section in the very back that shows any purchased software options, and the codes to unlock them. Macros, look-ahead, rigid-tapping, etc. These options can be very expensive if you don't have them, but can make the machine a real value if the original buyer paid for a few of the important ones.

If the machine is still under power, (and you are going to buy it), I would recommend doing 2 things: 1) Do a parameter backup to a usb stick or whatever external thing you can plug into it. 2) Aim your phone camera at the control screen (shooting a video), and step through every parameter and settings page on the control.

PM