[Gary-Wiant]

While I have a CNCRP 4896 PRO this question isn't about the machine, it's a general question but I wasn't sure where to post this.

First question, I have a customer that supplies me with air dried slabs to route logos onto, usually the logos or words are larger sized. This time I'm working with white pine (this is by no means kiln dried butbit is not wet either. Ig has set about a year inside) and smaller in the corner he wants his logo. The lettering will be about .25" tall I initially tried to use a 60° v-bit 150 ipm 14000rpm. Im cutting .25" deep max but it blew out most of the insides of the letters like the R,A,P, etc. Could be the 60° bit is too steep of an angle & I may be better if I used a 90° or even a 120° bit, am I cutting too deep & or fast or could it be the air dried white pine?

During my pocket carving & v carving I set my Z off of the material surface but when I profile cut I set the Z off of the spoil board so I do not cut into my spoil board. My question is how does everyone handle this workflow? Do you set up 2 complete different job files or do you save the pocket & v-carving tool paths then change the Z setting to the spoil board then save the profile tool paths?

Thank you for the help in advance
Gary

[wmgeorge]

I find Pine very difficult to get good results from on small letters and details. I would run a sharp bit speed very fast, and yes the 90 Deg bit might not go as deep. Try some sample cuts and see which way you want to do. I have large 48 inch long live edge walnut slabs that carve very nicely.

I always Zero off the top but thats just me. Once you zero the Z, at least on mine anyway I just load the next file zero the X & Y (if its changed) and Go. Your results may vary, please test on yours.

[Gary-Wiant]

I just do not want to cut into my spoil board on my vacuum table, it takes so long to get them sealed & I'm still not confident on drilling the mounting holes.

[wmgeorge]

I just do not want to cut into my spoil board on my vacuum table, it takes so long to get them sealed & I'm still not confident on drilling the mounting holes.

Leave your cut 1/8 or 1/16 less short of going all the way thru.

[Gary-Wiant]

Yes I understand but then you need to do clean up which isnt a big deal on most jobs but still way more than you have to do if you zero off of the spoil board. I'm just wondering what everyone's work flow is

[wmgeorge]

Yes I understand but then you need to do clean up which isnt a big deal on most jobs but still way more than you have to do if you zero off of the spoil board. I'm just wondering what everyone's work flow is

The last little project I did was a birdhouse made entirely on the router, it had slots and just snapped together. Made from 1/4 birch plywood. I held it on to my small project vacuum table and its only 2x2 ft. Just cut almost thru and left 1/16 inch. I hope someone else chimes in with other suggestions.

[dgage]

I cut into the spoilboard some because it is SO much better than dealing with issues related to parts not cut all the way thru. But that is a production mentality where I’m dealing with a dozen or so parts in a 5x10 plywood cutting session. I’d rather skim the spoilboard periodically than deal with cutting through and sanding each part that isn’t cut all the way thru. But each situation is different and if you’re cutting larger items or not in a production setting, then leaving an onion skin may be just fine. For me it comes down to money, dealing with the onion skin costs me more time in labor than refreshing the spoilboard every few weeks and replacing it every year or so.

[Gary-Wiant]

David, do you notice any loss in suction where the slight cut in the spoilboard crosses between the zones?

Thank you

[dgage]

Some but it hasn’t been a problem. I also often use a tape gun to put clear 2” packing tape around the perimeter of the left and front, which ensures a good seal. But there re many variables such as size of parts, bit, etc to compare what will work for each of use. I also use a dowbcut bit, which packs most of the dust in the 1/4” kerf. I’m using 3 of the Lighthouse motors on a 5x10 table and don’t surface that often.