[kcoaks]

I feel like an utter fool for asking this.

I read a lot about people turning down the ends of rods themselves and tapping as well. I don' t have any tools that can do anything like this. Should I be looking into buying a set of taps before I attempt my first machine? If I can't find a machinist to turn down rod ends for me, what kind of machine should I be looking into?

On a side note, and again I apologize for the sophomoric question, but for the Z axis, obviously I'm going to need an Acme lead screw shorter than 3 feet. I'm assuming I'd have to cut one down, but I've never cut anything outside of plexi and wood. Am I assuming correctly, and what would I use to cut a rod into pieces?

Assume I have nothing outside of the basics, but I do have a compound miter and scroll saw.

[mvaughn]

do you have a hack saw? Everyone usually has one of those. It will cut your rod.

As for turing down the treaded rod, the tool of choice is a lathe. You could probably accomplish the same job by chuckin it into a drill and using a file to turn it down by hand.

[pminmo]

Originally posted by kcoaks
I feel like an utter fool for asking this.

I read a lot about people turning down the ends of rods themselves and tapping as well. I don' t have any tools that can do anything like this. Should I be looking into buying a set of taps before I attempt my first machine? If I can't find a machinist to turn down rod ends for me, what kind of machine should I be looking into?

On a side note, and again I apologize for the sophomoric question, but for the Z axis, obviously I'm going to need an Acme lead screw shorter than 3 feet. I'm assuming I'd have to cut one down, but I've never cut anything outside of plexi and wood. Am I assuming correctly, and what would I use to cut a rod into pieces?

Assume I have nothing outside of the basics, but I do have a compound miter and scroll saw.

A couple of the best investments I made were a cheap Harbor Freight Tap and Die set and a set of Harbor Freight digital calipers and Harbor Freight Forstner bit set for $8. I think I paid $13 for the tap and die set and $20 for the calipers. Now I wouldn't want to run a business on the daily use of these tools, but for soft steel, aluminum and MDF the taps and dies do the job nicely. The digital calipers measure my feeler gauges accurately so they do the job to at least .002 wit .0005 resolution.

Phil

[kcoaks]

And I happen to have a Harbor Freight just down the street from me. Buying new tools is always a bit of a rush, and I've been telling my wife that I need to do some of the spending for once, so it looks like I now have a good reason to go! Thanks for the suggestions, Phil!

[whiteriver]

Kcoaks,
I'm up here in North Idaho just a short ways from you. I have a large lathe and a large CNC Router. I could help you get going if you need it (i.e turn rod ends down cut out panels etc.) Let me know. People have always helped me out and I try to carry on the tradition.

Donny

[kcoaks]

Talk about a good neighbor. Thanks for the offer, Donny, seriously. That's an effective way to carry on such a tradition. Where in the panhandle are you? I actually work in CDA, so I could be a block away from you and not know it .

[radio-op]

I have used a drill motor clamped in my Workmate. Then I built a horz. fixture from plywood for my drill, I can clamp the drill motor in it and chuck the rod; use it like a poor boy's lathe with a file. Last Xmas, I got a Roybi drill press, again I chuck the rod in it, on the vert. now. The drill press is much better, var speed, more secure. Plus, a drill press will serve you well in soooo many ways during the construction. Plus plus, it's real cool drilling accurate, right angle holes
Ditto on Phil's list! I would add a good set of HS drills and a Tee square. And if you have your check book out, a circ saw is a must; a table saw is better but I get by with a 6 1/2" Black and Decker with a rip guide, makes life easier. With a 60 tooth carbide blade and some cut wax you can cut 1/2" alum plate! A bench sander and/or grinder is helpful, but you can get by with elbow grease. I use the heck out of my power Roybi chop saw and a cheap bench top band saw, again you can work alum with the right blades. Oh yea, a router
Bill

[pminmo]

Kcoaks,
After I replied above I remembered I kinda posted an OPed weeks ago on the zone:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...&threadid=3044

Phil

[whiteriver]

I'm up in Spirit Lake. Just a hop skip and long jump to CDA. Yeah just come up and check out the shop and CNC next time your out this way.

Donny

[kcoaks]

Phil,

I read your reply and your OPed piece. I now own a HF tap and die set, forstner bit set, and digital calipers . Ain't nothing in this house that's not going to get either tapped, drilled, or measured. If you were wondering, the cat's tail has an outer diameter of .6657" .

I'm loving the ideas for some creative tooling, especially the poor boy's lathe. I can handle that. I would love to see a shiny new table saw in the garage for my 30th birthday next month (in case the wife looks over my shoulder as I type this), but if not I do have a trusty circular saw. Got the T square and an aging, but trusty, set of drill bits. This is cool, now I just need to work on my plan on paper some more. And, of course, a couple more trips to HF, my new handy tool store (actually, my only one).

K.C.

[kcoaks]

Donny,

A wee bit of a long jump . However, I would love to get out there and check out your CNC and shop sometime. I'll even bring my own rag to catch the drool. The near future holds 3 (3!) 1-year birthday parties, my mother-in-law moving into the neighborhood, and some wifey things, but I want to at least get the option out in the open. We'll have to set up a Friday or Saturday afternoon sometime, if that works for you.

[whiteriver]

K.C.
Check out CDA power tool for the spendier stuff. I like them better than Spokane Power Tool. Also Bixbe Machine Or AR tool in Spokane. You can get a old lathe or drill press out of Bixbe. They have a whole warehouse well 2 full of used machines. Most of there prices are pretty good. And if you try you can haggle with them. Also get alot of my tooling from them. AR has nice new stuff and some old stuff. Bought a 6" thick 30"x 60" granite slab from them a couple years ago for $200. That would have cost a bundle new. Makes a great computer desk when not being used.
sent you a e-mail did you get it?
Talk to you later.

Donny

[radio-op]

Kcoaks, I took a couple pixs of the drill fixture so you can get an idea what I was talking 'bout. Hope this helps.
Bill

[whiteriver]

Wohaaa. Thats organized..

Donny

[radio-op]

And with the drill mounted. (What a mess, but if I cleaned I'd never find anything!)

[kcoaks]

Bill,

Thanks for the pics, now I understand. I do have a question, however. You said you'd chuck the rod and use a file to turn down the ends. One end is several feet away and none too stable, I'd assume, and the other end is in the drill. Am I misinterpreting (that's just so rare for me )?

[kcoaks]

Donny,

No e-mail on my end.
I work down the street from CDA power tool, maybe I'll stop in on my way home. I'll have to look up AR and Bixbie as well. This may end up being a busier weekend than I thought!

[kcoaks]

Donny - never mind, I got the e-mail!

[whiteriver]

k.C.
Check your PM. I sent you one back on the 4th and one today. Are they getting them.

Donny

[radio-op]

kcoaks , yes you right but I use a rod about 1 1/2 longer then needed, then apply the file up near the chuck. After I bring it down to size, cut off the part that was in the chuck. It wastes a little but works for me. If you need to mill both ends, just allow enough to chuck the rod on both ends. The biggest problem I have with the drill motor is the runout and wobble at the chuck, I have found that my drill press works out better.
Bill