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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerances?
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  1. #101
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    I would think a Bridgey was the last place you would start if you wanted a router with high specs, certainly not if you have an 8 X 12 foot sheet of plywood in mind.

    At the same time, just getting a DIY build of quite large proportions level and square would be beyond even a fairly well equipped workshop...…..the problem being that as the temperature fluctuates then so does your machine...….also what could a DIY person use to ensure that it meets very high accuracy once it's assembled.

    The main point is who in his right mind would expect a large router to perform like a small router when it comes to accuracy over large dimensions...….just getting the frame work square to accept linear rails is well beyond the average DIY home workshop person.

    For the answer to this topic I think you must tailor your needs to your ability to achieve...…...anything lacking in the making department and you get just an average DIY build that could cut materials of various consistencies but how accurate is an unknown factor on the path to the initial creativity.

    First you have to have an accurate machine and the cost of accuracy is an exponential curve once you raise your specs...….high end spindles and tooling do not make a machine, they compliment it.

    I think the first step is to propose a design so that a tangible feel can be got.....castles in the air are two a penny.
    Ian.
    It doesn't have to be a Bridgeport specifically. Obviously it is for the individual to search for machines or parts based on their specific needs.

    If you have a budget of $4000 for a diy build, it is just worth finding out if that money would be better spent on a used machine or used parts. $4000 goes a long way for a smart shopper on ebay. Or, it can go towards to very average cnc t-slot kits...

    If you are starting with a full machine shop in your shed like some of the "diy" guys on YouTube then you might have more confidence in your own abilities than someone with just a Ryobi drill press from Home Depot.

  2. #102
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    LOL....I doubt that anyone with just a smidgeon of knowledge on CNC matters and a scant inventory of tooling or any machinery would contemplate a CNC build let alone indulge in buying a well used or one in good condition at an auction, to then tear it apart and attempt to convert it to a CNC capable machine to make items with tight tolerances.

    The build itself will test the courage of even a hardened trades person if the tooling or machinery to do the task is lacking.

    It takes a machine to make a machine is very true, and if that is not in the equation the last resort is a secondary outlet like a well tooled friend or with lots of spare disposable income sending the drawings out to a work shop to do it for you...….mega bucks are part of that option, but if you want something that really works and can design accordingly, I would leave that part of the build to the experts......a lot depends on the size of your money box in the end or the size of your loan application at your favourite loan shark outlet too.

    Going down the total third party build, it would be more practical to browse your local machinery showroom and wait until Xmas for a nice "surprise".

    I would like to see a concept sketch of something that looks like it could do the job than hypothesise forever on something that might do the job if only.....so, a sketch, a sketch, my kingdom for a sketch.
    Ian.

  3. #103
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    LOL....I doubt that anyone with just a smidgeon of knowledge on CNC matters and a scant inventory of tooling or any machinery would contemplate a CNC build let alone indulge in buying a well used or one in good condition at an auction, to then tear it apart and attempt to convert it to a CNC capable machine to make items with tight tolerances.

    The build itself will test the courage of even a hardened trades person if the tooling or machinery to do the task is lacking.

    It takes a machine to make a machine is very true, and if that is not in the equation the last resort is a secondary outlet like a well tooled friend or with lots of spare disposable income sending the drawings out to a work shop to do it for you...….mega bucks are part of that option, but if you want something that really works and can design accordingly, I would leave that part of the build to the experts......a lot depends on the size of your money box in the end or the size of your loan application at your favourite loan shark outlet too.

    Going down the total third party build, it would be more practical to browse your local machinery showroom and wait until Xmas for a nice "surprise".

    I would like to see a concept sketch of something that looks like it could do the job than hypothesise forever on something that might do the job if only.....so, a sketch, a sketch, my kingdom for a sketch.
    Ian.

    I dunno, there seems to be a lot of hobby builds and many of those are first timers with little to no prior experience. Learning as you go is part of the fun. There is a whole industry supporting newbie cnc builders. I can't imagine that Open Builds is selling anything to seasoned pros with full machine shops...

    Having a machine to build a machine would definitely make things easier though. I thought about buying a cheap Chinese router off ebay just to make reasonably accurate mounting plates for my build.

    That was the biggest challenge for me. Aside from the pain in the ass of drilling and threading 7 million holes, trying to do it by hand does not result in the squarest or most parallel machine... No matter how carefully you measure, it never comes out quite right.

  4. #104
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Actually, I was referring to a Bridgeport retrofit or something like it when I posted about building a CNC....that would definitely separate the men from the boys etc.

    A basic CNC router in aluminium extrusions does seem the preferred way for the average DIY person who wants to get into CNC without breaking the bank or becoming a wizz kid with full blown machinery even if it was available.

    The dividing line is the tight tolerance end product aspect that this thread is referring to...……. it just depends on where you're at in the skill sector and how deep your pocket is when it comes to the specs and size of the build, but in the end the design is the critical factor.

    For the design I would lean heavily to the moving table type as opposed to the regular moving gantry one even if the overall length of the machine was longer than the latter.

    You're quite right with something for a starting point like an EBAY 6040 CNC gantry router (about a grand outlay) to make the parts easier than with a hammer and file approach etc, as you can sell it on once you've made a better machine and go on from there.....the tedious marking out, cutting and pitch drilling does get easier with an already available cheap router if you have the room to house one...…. I'm just guessing as I'm not all that into routers as a means to move metal.....wood etc yes, but not metal per se, that's mill territory.... accuracy, as in tight tolerances, being the major factor and that is what this thread is trying to achieve.
    Ian.

  5. #105
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    Actually, I was referring to a Bridgeport retrofit or something like it when I posted about building a CNC....that would definitely separate the men from the boys etc.

    A basic CNC router in aluminium extrusions does seem the preferred way for the average DIY person who wants to get into CNC without breaking the bank or becoming a wizz kid with full blown machinery even if it was available.

    The dividing line is the tight tolerance end product aspect that this thread is referring to...……. it just depends on where you're at in the skill sector and how deep your pocket is when it comes to the specs and size of the build, but in the end the design is the critical factor.

    For the design I would lean heavily to the moving table type as opposed to the regular moving gantry one even if the overall length of the machine was longer than the latter.

    You're quite right with something for a starting point like an EBAY 6040 CNC gantry router (about a grand outlay) to make the parts easier than with a hammer and file approach etc, as you can sell it on once you've made a better machine and go on from there.....the tedious marking out, cutting and pitch drilling does get easier with an already available cheap router if you have the room to house one...…. I'm just guessing as I'm not all that into routers as a means to move metal.....wood etc yes, but not metal per se, that's mill territory.... accuracy, as in tight tolerances, being the major factor and that is what this thread is trying to achieve.
    Ian.
    The Bridgeport retrofit kits look relatively straightforward to install to me. The main thing that scared me away from them (or other mills) was the weight. When you're at a residential address with no forklift or dock, it can be daunting to figure out how to get it from a delivery truck to your basement.

    I thought I was avoiding such issues with my diy build but I then discovered that moving epoxy granite parts is just as difficult. I ended up having to buy a shop crane anyway.

    I probably would have gone a very different route if I had the means to move heavy objects at the start.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goemon View Post
    The Bridgeport retrofit kits look relatively straightforward to install to me. The main thing that scared me away from them (or other mills) was the weight. When you're at a residential address with no forklift or dock, it can be daunting to figure out how to get it from a delivery truck to your basement.

    I thought I was avoiding such issues with my diy build but I then discovered that moving epoxy granite parts is just as difficult. I ended up having to buy a shop crane anyway.

    I probably would have gone a very different route if I had the means to move heavy objects at the start.
    My 'workshop' is an 11ft x 11ft room in the far corner of my basement. It was enough of a challenge to get my new Grizzly G0602 lathe off the pallet, down a grass hill to the back of the house, into the basement back room, and up on the lathe stand. This lathe weighs only about 375 lbs. That weight was about the realistic limit of what I could move and position. My (slow moving) cnc build project needs to consider being able to get the machine out of the room after it is built.

  7. #107
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Yes, the weight factor is the most daunting aspect facing anyone contemplating acquiring used or new machinery.

    When you're faced with something like a Bridgeport....everybody's dream machine......and you have soft ground to move over, your only real option is to strip it down to modules and move them on a wheeled trolley etc...…..on soft ground you need to have boards to spread the weight and sheets of construction plywood cost little when you must get it moved.

    The real challenge comes when you have to drop the parts into a hole in the ground, called a basement, something not common in Australia, but as far as I have seen quite common in USA.

    In that scenario a wheeled gantry and 2 ton chain block usually wins the day......sometimes you have to spend some extra money to achieve the dream.

    I moved a 1-1/2 ton milling machine from the road, up an inclined driveway and into my garage workshop 15 years ago on a 2 ton pallet lifter......the driveway was just two concrete drive strips with grass in the middle......having two hefty guys from the delivery people to assist did make the transition easier.

    In fact I first had to move a Bridgeport mill out of the garage, as I had sold it to a mate, and then get the other mill in it's place, but it got there in the end.

    For moving the heavy stuff you can move mountains if you have an engine crane and a pallet lifter, but on the other hand a gantry is OK for a fixed position raising and lowering if the item is quite heavy....stripping down to smaller modules does make the task much easier without breaking your back...........if you know what you are doing.
    Ian.

  8. #108
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    One of the biggest issues small has me shops face when retrofitting a mill or using items like the table you linked to is material handling. Even a small bench top mill can leave people struggle with material handling, trying to do a conversion or even setting it in place. This reality has really limited my basement shop.

    The other thing that has become evident is that most basements or home garages really don’t have the concrete floors to support machine tools well. I know the basement floor in my 1950’s house is extremely thin so even if I tried to build or it install a machine one piece at a time the floor couldn’t handle the assembled machine.

    So for somebody contemplating a machine build they need to keep in mind that some of the required tools are in the realm of material handling. Also safe handling or rigging is something that you need to understand well before tearing into a machine. Then there are the times when you really need two or more people and that help can’t be the nervous and jerky neighbor.

    It is great if somebody has the equipment to go the route of a rebuild or refactoring a table like you linked but they need to understand what heavy means. Heavy things lead to HEAVY DAMAGE on us human flesh bags.

    Quote Originally Posted by Goemon View Post
    Whatever cnc project you take on for the first time, there is certainly a long learning curve. I agree that retro-fitting older machines has it's own difficulties. But, hooking up stepper motors, motion controllers and wiring electronics are challenges that can be overcome with research, patience and a little help from the forum. Building a precision machine base in your basement with nothing but a drill press is something else entirely.

    I literally could not buy the iron for a diy project for the same cash as a used Industrial machine and creating precision flat rail mounting surfaces, if you don't already own a mill, is a hill many diy projects die on.

    The way I see it, there is nothing wrong with giving yourself a head start where ready made used parts cost the same or less than a full diy option. You can spend months trying to figure out how to make a strong and stiff gantry with precision flat and parallel rail mounting surfaces, or snap up a sweet piece like this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tru-Stone-1...QAAOSwD~Fb5lUL

    It has precision flat surfaces, pre-drilled mounting holes and a ready cut groove so you can mount a ball screw on the back (protected from chips and sawdust). I just wish I would have seen something like before I started my project...

    You could spend months trying to teach yourself to make a base with a harbor freight welder, or... snag one of the many precision bases being thrown away for pennies on the dollar:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Newport-Dyn...4AAOSw0T9c1bs4

  9. #109
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    The laminated wood stocks I know about are not plywood. Plywood is a different animal with alternating plys peeled from a log. I don’t shoot in competitions so can’t say much about that. What one has to do is to pull apart what is the latest trends from what is technical reality. Is a chassis system inherently more accurate than a wood stocked rifle? Honestly I kinda doubt it. Like all things some designs are better than others.

    In any event back on track, with respect to sealers and hardeners I recently did some work on my cellars work bench expanding it a bit with a recycled desk panel from some office furniture. The panel is some sort of composite and the old bench covered with tempered hard board. In the hopes of getting a longer life out of both, I bought that some penetrating epoxy sealer from the local WoodCraft store. Of course I threw out the cans after using it so don’t ask about the name or brand.

    In any event this was an extremely thin epoxy. When mixed up it literally poured like water. This sealer soaked in like you would not believe. So much so I reapplied it several times to both the particle composite and the tempered hardboard. Interestingly years ago I thought I had sealed the tempered hardboard with BLO. Obviously I have no real time with this sealant but it is something builders with wood should consider.

    As for Baltic birch and similar products, usually the home centers (if you are lucky) only carry a very limited stock. There is an amazing array of these materials including shop grades even steel rule die grades. If someone is looking to use plywood in a build I highly suggest digging into what is available. Not only are the shop grade products available you can also get different facings. Baltic birch is a great construction material for the wood shop.


    Quote Originally Posted by Goemon View Post
    It's been a long time since I saw a wood stock used in a serious competitive shooting environment. It's almost exclusively composites or aluminum chassis systems these days.

    Being temperature and humidity stable is just one requirement for a precision stock. Just like with cnc builds, it's mainly about the stiffness so that they can provide consistency from one shot to the next. In that respect, there is no wood that can match carbon fiber or aluminum.

    With that said, my preferred platform is precision pcp air rifles and wood stocks are still favored by a percentage of users but that's mainly for how they look. I do enjoy a nice figured walnut. Even with PCP guns, the precision competition rifles mostly used aluminum.

    BTW, the absolute best wood I have ever used in a stock was Kamagong. A friend brought back an air rifle from the Philippines with a Kamagong stock. It's amazing stuff, I wish you could still get it here.

  10. #110
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    I would agree that wood is a pleasant material to work with, but using it for CNC router manufacturing for getting tight tolerances I don't think that would be on the list for possible material options.
    Ian.

  11. #111
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    I’d take it even a bit further and say most DIY machines will never be “precision builds”. It is very difficult to achieve tight tolerances with the equipment the average home builder has access to. One can achieve very good repeatability (which is often more important) with good build practices.

    One of my first jobs out of high school was as a mechanics helper in a machine tool rebuilding operation. Even on small vertical mills (small for industry) it would often take days to hand scrape a machines spindle (the frame that supports the spindle) into tram with the machines table. You only got to that after straightening and flattening everything else.

    Most DIY builders simply don’t have the tools and measuring equipment to build to high tolerances. That isn’t a problem though because wood working doesn’t often require high precision. When somebody posts about wants my to produce a precision machine out of aluminum extrusions I get a bit worried. There seems to be this assumption that extrusions are perfectly flat being the perfect place to mount linear bearings and such when that simply isn’t true. One can build a good machine with extrusions but it likely isn’t precise. At least not in the context of what would be considered precise in a milling machine. Good enough maybe.



    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    I would agree that wood is a pleasant material to work with, but using it for CNC router manufacturing for getting tight tolerances I don't think that would be on the list for possible material options.
    Ian.

  12. #112
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    It's in the eyes of the beholder when you get to the precision part...…...wood products are in the +- .010" bracket if you're a very careful cabinet maker, but moving onto aluminium and the expectation becomes closer to .002" and that is only with measuring equipment that usually equates to a 150mm digital caliper….squareness is assumed in most cases and any pitching of holes is also a wish list when it gets over 1500mm long.

    On the topic of squareness, I have to wonder how anyone in the home workplace can make a 1 metre frame square to tight limits that will impact on the final machine build.....levelness is something that you cross your fingers for if you are building without a flat and known level work surface.

    There are ways to overcome the lack of instrumentation and calibration equipment but it takes a lot of doing just to achieve it.

    So, I would say that anyone wanting to build a CNC router to get tight tolerances in all 3 planes had better be ready with the bank balance to get some equipment to be able to measure all 3 planes accurately or else turn a blind eye and hope for the best with what you've got.

    I would say get stuck in and do your best...…..making a machine that is quite good is better than wanting and thinking about a machine that is quite good.
    Ian.

  13. #113
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Quote Originally Posted by Arjay View Post
    My 'workshop' is an 11ft x 11ft room in the far corner of my basement. It was enough of a challenge to get my new Grizzly G0602 lathe off the pallet, down a grass hill to the back of the house, into the basement back room, and up on the lathe stand. This lathe weighs only about 375 lbs. That weight was about the realistic limit of what I could move and position. My (slow moving) cnc build project needs to consider being able to get the machine out of the room after it is built.

    Moving heavy machines or parts is certainly daunting for the diy enthusiast. My experience has been that it becomes a lot less daunting once you have the right kit. Even with a lot of help, you're never going to lift a 2000lb or 3000lb mill by hand but, once you have bought a 4 ton shop crane from Harbor Freight, it's a different story. A shop crane allows you to move a mill from your driveway to your garage without killing yourself. It's a good investment for guys like us.

    I am lucky in my current house as my basement has ground floor access via the garage so there are no steps to deal with. We plan to move soon and I am worried about how to deal with steps in my new place...

    I guess the obvious point is that, if you are starting a business, it makes sense to invest in relatively cheap lifting aids like shop cranes, electric hoists and maybe a steel gantry. Fear of moving heavy parts is a bad reason to put up with sub-standard machines when the solution is so cheap. For someone planning to make an occasional hobby wood part in a cramped basement, $200 for a shop crane is not a good use of money or space...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Arjay View Post
    My 'workshop' is an 11ft x 11ft room in the far corner of my basement. It was enough of a challenge to get my new Grizzly G0602 lathe off the pallet, down a grass hill to the back of the house, into the basement back room, and up on the lathe stand. This lathe weighs only about 375 lbs. That weight was about the realistic limit of what I could move and position. My (slow moving) cnc build project needs to consider being able to get the machine out of the room after it is built.

    Moving heavy machines or parts is certainly daunting for the diy enthusiast. My experience has been that it becomes a lot less daunting once you have the right kit. Even with a lot of help, you're never going to lift a 2000lb or 3000lb mill by hand but, once you have bought a 4 ton shop crane from Harbor Freight, it's a different story. A shop crane allows you to move a mill from your driveway to your garage without killing yourself. It's a good investment for guys like us.

    I am lucky in my current house as my basement has ground floor access via the garage so there are no steps to deal with. We plan to move soon and I am worried about how to deal with steps in my new place...

    I guess the obvious point is that, if you are starting a business, it makes sense to invest in relatively cheap lifting aids like shop cranes, electric hoists and maybe a steel gantry. Fear of moving heavy parts is a bad reason to put up with sub-standard machines when the solution is so cheap. For someone planning to make an occasional hobby wood part in a cramped basement, $200 for a shop crane is not a good use of money or space...

  14. #114
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    It's in the eyes of the beholder when you get to the precision part...…...wood products are in the +- .010" bracket if you're a very careful cabinet maker, but moving onto aluminium and the expectation becomes closer to .002" and that is only with measuring equipment that usually equates to a 150mm digital caliper….squareness is assumed in most cases and any pitching of holes is also a wish list when it gets over 1500mm long.

    On the topic of squareness, I have to wonder how anyone in the home workplace can make a 1 metre frame square to tight limits that will impact on the final machine build.....levelness is something that you cross your fingers for if you are building without a flat and known level work surface.

    There are ways to overcome the lack of instrumentation and calibration equipment but it takes a lot of doing just to achieve it.

    So, I would say that anyone wanting to build a CNC router to get tight tolerances in all 3 planes had better be ready with the bank balance to get some equipment to be able to measure all 3 planes accurately or else turn a blind eye and hope for the best with what you've got.

    I would say get stuck in and do your best...…..making a machine that is quite good is better than wanting and thinking about a machine that is quite good.
    Ian.
    Accuracy for cnc machines or parts is usually linked to a limited distance. I.e. It's not accuracy of 0.01mm, it is accuracy of 0.01mm over 12" or some other distance. Without the qualifying distance, the accuracy numbers don't mean much. People never seem to quality their accuracy claims here....

    I think we also have to assume that there will be massive inconsistencies with how different people measure their machines accuracy. Based on what I have seen (and tried myself) I assume that a majority of people here do not have the knowledge or equipment to accurately measure the accuracy they claim.

    Your average inexpensive digital calipers off ebay are not accurate to 0.01mm. You have to spend high hundreds or thousands of dollars for precision calipers and even then, they can only measure 6" or 12".

    Genuinely precise dial gauges can be similarly expensive. Most of us in the hobby world will be trying to take readings from cheap analog Ebay dial gauges which is like trying to take accurate measurements from a ruler.

    I have yet to find a build thread where someone has a laser interferometer in their shed.

    So, when someone with a 4ft x 4ft table claims that their machine is accurate to 0.01mm with no other qualifying info or a stated methodology, I am reaching for the salt to take a large pinch. Anyone can claim accuracy on the internet. Watch. "my machine is accurate to 0.00001 mm". That was easy. Wait, I just "calibrated it" again and now it's accurate to 0.000000000000000000001 mm.

  15. #115
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    I end up renting a telescoping strap lift. Not sure its name but it had two forks on a telescopic column. I needed this lift because the 11x11 room only had a 6 foot ceiling so a cherry picker hoist wouldn't work.

  16. #116
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    We still haven't nailed the process where anyone building a CNC router is able to hold tight tolerances, and that is the theme of the thread.
    Ian.

  17. #117
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Hi Ian and others - I think its been covered in earlier posts. The thread has gotten a little OT. I'll try to summaries here:
    1) To build a machine to a required precision (which hopefully means it will make parts to a known precision) you need to build it with machines that are of a higher precision eg to build machines for general usage you use a toolmaker grade machine. You use the known technology within its known limits to result in whatever precision you need from making 6" bolts to silicon wafers

    2) This does not explain how we got high precision machines in the first place however or how we make machines of higher and higher precision

    3) In the DIY CNC world we should look at our forefathers efforts. People like Whitworth and others hand built ( and this was with files and saws for many parts not mechanised tools) their first machines which allowed them with care and skill to build better machines. These machines with care and skill ,,,, result in better etc etc

    and this is where we are still at today. A) you either get access to, pay for, beg borrow or steal high quality machines to make your good quality parts B) you hand build parts as best you can with what you have and you get somewhere. Then you use that somewhere with skill and care to build a better one etc etc. There are no short cuts or magic genies, sorry.

    There is a thread in here where someone builds an MDF router, uses that to make a better aluminium router, then uses that to make an awesome router.... I take my hat off to those sort of people...Peter

  18. #118
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    "off topic" is a matter of perspective here. The thread title is a somewhat leading question in that it assumes that most people are in fact building diy machines capable of precision. My contention is that they are not and that most lack the means to measure it if they were.

    The diy world is mostly aluminum t-slot builds or amateur steel tube welds with cheap Chinese spindles and linear motion components. People who think their diy 4' x 8' table is accurate to 0.001" most likely measured it wrong.

  19. #119
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    It would be an interesting exercise to have everyone load a given set of G code for a square or whatever and have them cut it on their machine. Measure the end result and publish the results.

  20. #120
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    Re: How is everyone building a DIY CNC router system that maintains cutting tolerance

    Quote Originally Posted by peteeng View Post
    3) In the DIY CNC world we should look at our forefathers efforts. People like Whitworth and others hand built ( and this was with files and saws for many parts not mechanised tools) their first machines which allowed them with care and skill to build better machines. These machines with care and skill ,,,, result in better etc etc
    I totally agree. To really understand accuracy at the highest level, Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy is the book to read: Publications at Moore Tool: Precision Machining Technology, Precision Tools

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