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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    829

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    Well, I have seen people machine that material on CNC routers before.

    And you really should only just be skimming the spoil board most of the time anyway.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    841

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by nlancaster View Post
    Always wondered if composite decking would work as a spoilboard. I don't think it would expand and contract as much as MDF does.
    Your supposition doesn't match my experience. MDF expands and contracts due to moisture. Composite decking is temperature sensitive. Expansion and contraction can be pretty extreme. Personally, I wouldn't use it, even in my climate controlled shop. Also, the cost is very high when compared to MDF. IMO, there is nothing to recommend composite.

    Gary


  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    841

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Project_Hopeless View Post
    I'm skeptical. I would think the resin and plastics would melt onto your cutter.
    Composite routes surprisingly well. I've routed it.

    Gary

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    I've even built a deck with it.
    Gerry

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    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #25
    If you need aluminum profiles, see my website on file

  6. #26

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    I'm Back!

    I'm still thinking about the spoil board design. I assume all the t-nuts or t-slots are within the 4x4 perimeter of a 4x4 spoil board.

    With a 4x4ft. table area how do you hold down a 4x4 or 4x8 sheet?

  7. #27

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    The T nuts are mounted under the 3/4", so they can't pull out.
    Yes, the 1/2" is the spoilboard. It's glued down.
    I have two sheets of MDF router-ed and T-Nuts installed ready to lay down.

    I read some people use Gorilla glue.

    I was planning on using contact cement. It's what I am used to using with laminate and formica.

    Any reason not to use contact cement?

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    841

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions



    Especially with large pieces, alignment can be an issue with contact cement. Also, if you cut into it, you may gum up your bit.

    Personally, I use good old Titebond wood glue. Spread it with a foam roller and you can get a good even coat.

  9. #29

    Unhappy Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by GME View Post


    Especially with large pieces, alignment can be an issue with contact cement. Also, if you cut into it, you may gum up your bit.

    Personally, I use good old Titebond wood glue. Spread it with a foam roller and you can get a good even coat.
    I have a ~1/2 gallon of Titebond II. My only concern is the open time, It sets up fairly quick and I have to coat a 4x4 ft spoil board.

    Do you coat both mating surfaces or just the one? Have you ever cut the glue with water? I read somewhere one trick is to reducing it ~20% with water? But my fear is the MDF will swell.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    You don't need to coat the entire thing. just lay a bead around the perimeter, and in maybe a 4-6" grid.

    Contact cement would work, but woodworking glue would be w better choice. I have a spray pot of contact cement, and would still use regular wood glue.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    841

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    I don't cut mine with water. Same concern as yours - I wouldn't want to risk swelling.

    I only apply the glue to one side, but I use a good heavy coat. If you've never used a foam roller, you'd be surprised how little time it takes to get a good coat over a large area. I use a roller designed for veneer glues.

    You might consider a urea resin glue like this: https://www.veneersupplies.com/produ...neer-Glue.html. It has a longer working time than PVA glues. It is also way harder/more rigid when cured and won't creep like PVA. It is used for veneering and bent wood laminations. Note the 1 year shelf life. After about a year, it's no good. Forget DAP Weldwood urea, unless you know the source and know that there is good product turnover. One of my local Ace Hardware stores carries it, but it's covered by a thick layer of dust. What they have has been in the store for years. If the stuff is grainy, it won't mix or bond. All you can do with it is throw it away.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1206

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    If you glue the spoilboard down it may be quite a challenge to replace it in the future.I have used screwed down spoilboards on a vacuum table and on a tapped metal table and in both instances they were easy to change when they became too chewed up.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    841

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by routalot View Post
    If you glue the spoilboard down it may be quite a challenge to replace it in the future.I have used screwed down spoilboards on a vacuum table and on a tapped metal table and in both instances they were easy to change when they became too chewed up.

    Replacement is no big deal. You just surface the old one smooth and glue on a new piece. It's no more difficult to glue on a replacement than gluing on the original.

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1206

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    Quote Originally Posted by GME View Post
    Replacement is no big deal. You just surface the old one smooth and glue on a new piece. It's no more difficult to glue on a replacement than gluing on the original.
    I think a lot would depend on the metalwork installed for holding down jobs.Even if below the spoilboard you have the possibility of glue running into tracks or T-nuts.A simple MDF spoilboard can indeed be easily skimmed and I suppose most of us have done so.

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Posts
    3

    Re: Spoil/Waste Board Questions

    that is nice. See this. how to unblock a toilet

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