Well, I have seen people machine that material on CNC routers before.
And you really should only just be skimming the spoil board most of the time anyway.
Well, I have seen people machine that material on CNC routers before.
And you really should only just be skimming the spoil board most of the time anyway.
Your supposition doesn't match my experience. MDF expands and contracts due to moisture. Composite decking is temperature sensitive. Expansion and contraction can be pretty extreme. Personally, I wouldn't use it, even in my climate controlled shop. Also, the cost is very high when compared to MDF. IMO, there is nothing to recommend composite.
Gary
I've even built a deck with it.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
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I'm still thinking about the spoil board design. I assume all the t-nuts or t-slots are within the 4x4 perimeter of a 4x4 spoil board.
With a 4x4ft. table area how do you hold down a 4x4 or 4x8 sheet?
Especially with large pieces, alignment can be an issue with contact cement. Also, if you cut into it, you may gum up your bit.
Personally, I use good old Titebond wood glue. Spread it with a foam roller and you can get a good even coat.
I have a ~1/2 gallon of Titebond II. My only concern is the open time, It sets up fairly quick and I have to coat a 4x4 ft spoil board.
Do you coat both mating surfaces or just the one? Have you ever cut the glue with water? I read somewhere one trick is to reducing it ~20% with water? But my fear is the MDF will swell.
You don't need to coat the entire thing. just lay a bead around the perimeter, and in maybe a 4-6" grid.
Contact cement would work, but woodworking glue would be w better choice. I have a spray pot of contact cement, and would still use regular wood glue.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I don't cut mine with water. Same concern as yours - I wouldn't want to risk swelling.
I only apply the glue to one side, but I use a good heavy coat. If you've never used a foam roller, you'd be surprised how little time it takes to get a good coat over a large area. I use a roller designed for veneer glues.
You might consider a urea resin glue like this: https://www.veneersupplies.com/produ...neer-Glue.html. It has a longer working time than PVA glues. It is also way harder/more rigid when cured and won't creep like PVA. It is used for veneering and bent wood laminations. Note the 1 year shelf life. After about a year, it's no good. Forget DAP Weldwood urea, unless you know the source and know that there is good product turnover. One of my local Ace Hardware stores carries it, but it's covered by a thick layer of dust. What they have has been in the store for years. If the stuff is grainy, it won't mix or bond. All you can do with it is throw it away.
If you glue the spoilboard down it may be quite a challenge to replace it in the future.I have used screwed down spoilboards on a vacuum table and on a tapped metal table and in both instances they were easy to change when they became too chewed up.
that is nice. See this. how to unblock a toilet