[peteeng]

Hi All - I picked up Matts blue bits and started organising some small parts. Still have to detail the saddle! The small bits take up a lot of time. But I think we are close to over the hump... I made studs for the spindle plate and thread locked them in. I prefer this so I know the threads are at maximum engagement and don't run the risk of jacking the adaptor plate... I use the adaptor plate so the spindle clamp can be removed without upsetting the Z axis plate for moding or tramming. This area gets a bit crowded with nuts bolts, support bearings, rails etc.... Next hurdle for Matt is the electronics this Monday. Peter

[JayneV]

It's worth taking the time to sort out the small details. I'm sure Matt will appreciate the time take to sort out the small things. After the machine is built, will it have to be partially taken apart again to transport to Matt's premises or have you found a way to transport the completed machine?

I like the idea of using an adapter plate for the spindle mount. That would be useful if you want to swap between say a spindle and a laser head or testing different spindles. I might incorporate an adapter plate into my machine.

- - - Updated - - -

It's worth taking the time to sort out the small details. I'm sure Matt will appreciate the time take to sort out the small things. After the machine is built, will it have to be partially taken apart again to transport to Matt's premises or have you found a way to transport the completed machine?

I like the idea of using an adapter plate for the spindle mount. That would be useful if you want to swap between say a spindle and a laser head or testing different spindles. I might incorporate an adapter plate into my machine.

[peteeng]

Hi Jayne - 4 strong guys and a big truck or trailer would allow it to be moved in one go. But I think we will break it down at the gantry bearings and reassemble. Scoot No1, when I sold it I had a Renault Master van. Renault call it their warehouse on wheels. I took Scoot to the buyer and ran out a lead and trained him in the back of the truck. He then agreed it was all good and paid the balance & we lifted it out into his garage... But Scoot 1 was a lighter machine... we got it jammed in his gate (we had Scoot up at 45degs) and luckily the neighbour was walking by and saved us. I was staggering there and had blurred visions of dropping it.... Peter

edit - Scoot Series 1 had 3 incarnations alpha, beta and gamma (maybe omicron as well) . Mainly to do with z axis stiffness upgrades and dust control. I'm about to start thinking about a new bench as well for Scoot-S3-02 aluminium? timber? steel? Its easy to chuck $700 plus into a bench.... so some thought and quotes required...

[JayneV]

Yikes! Glad Scoot survived without being dropped.

[peteeng]

Afternoon all - I have been looking at the spindle earth again. The spindle "cap" in my case is electrically isolated from the body and the plug terminal. It must be anodised or heavily painted. So I am going to use one of the cap bolts to tag as earth. So the image attached wouldn't work as an earth in my case. The plug and spindle body and all screws/bolts are connected.... Peter

[peteeng]

ARRGHHHH - I dropped my phone and the screen is now black. It talks to a computer, receives calls but the screen is unresponsive so can't answer calls or make them. Off to a tech tomorrow. Wanted to take some photos but no way. Peter

[mactec54]

Afternoon all - I have been looking at the spindle earth again. The spindle "cap" in my case is electrically isolated from the body and the plug terminal. It must be anodised or heavily painted. So I am going to use one of the cap bolts to tag as earth. So the image attached wouldn't work as an earth in my case. The plug and spindle body and all screws/bolts are connected.... Peter

The Photo you posted shows the Metal top of your spindle is just the same as what everyone else has with these water-cooled spindles, you attach a wire to the 4th pin of the plug and use a longer screw that goes in from the top of the plug that Earth wire has a lug on it to attach to the screw with a nut and lock washer, it's a very simple connection and the correct way to do it

[peteeng]

ARRGHHHH - I dropped my phone and the screen is now black. It talks to a computer, receives calls but the screen is unresponsive so can't answer calls or make them. Off to a tech tomorrow. Wanted to take some photos but no way. Peter

[peteeng]

Evening all - Matt got busy and took the mechanics through to as far a he can go. Got to detail the saddle now! He's onto the electronics tomorrow. Starting to look smart and the gantry glides nicely... Peter

[peteeng]

Evening all - Matt built his drawer and started laying out the electronics today. No camera this morning so no photos. Picked up a new phone this afternoon and sorted the spindle on the tool plate. Will cut a pocket in the adaptor plate for the nut clearance. The support bearing was in a different place when I ordered the plate... Peter

edit - Scoot is saying Hmmppff just like the Blackboard in Mr Sqiggle. Its impatient for its saddle. It's also muttering something like PETE pull your finger out and get busy on that computer.... HURRRY UP!

[peteeng]

Hi All and Sundry - Scoots job for today is cutting a sign for a local company... new phone/camera takes nice shots. It also is good with close ups.... Peter

[luke peter]

Clean cuts. What cutter are you using Pete?

[peteeng]

Hi Luke - These were done with 6mm straight flute carbide cutters (12000rpm as the DC spindle I have that's flat chat) . Some of the images were done after I did a quick wipe with some sandpaper to remove the edge fuzz. I typically do the pockets, do an inside spring cut, then a finish cut with 0.25mm cut. Seems to give a nice edge. But depends on the timber as well. Some will always need a sandpaper wipe to deal with the fuzzy edge. I'm very keen to see how the 1.5kW spindle goes. I'm sure with its better runout it will be nice edges. Peter

[peteeng]

Evening all and sundry - Todays job for Scoot while I waited for an FEA run to finish. Which is still running, been running for 5 hours and still only 30% done! This is an inlay for a prize board for a Bee Club. I'm making 2 boards 1) I will epoxy fill the inlay as the timber is quite blonde and 2) as this one is dark I decided to inlay it with blonde timber... Fits nicely. Will black epoxy it together tomorrow.

The inlay was roughed with an 18mm bit, roughed further with a 6mm bit then finished with a 3mm bit. The pocket was roughed with a 3mm and finished with a 2mm. Trial fitting was done and the tool size adjusted in CAM smaller until the inlay dropped in. In this case the "virtual" tool was 0.9mm vs the real tool at 2mm before they married.... Peter

[peteeng]

Hi All , I inlaid the epoxy and marquetry this morning. Will dress the insert tomorrow. Peter

[luke peter]

I like that, a lot.

[peteeng]

Evening all - I have completed the design of the Series 3 saddle. Its 20mm and 16mm aluminium bolted and epoxied together. I think I'll do similar for Frankie-S1. Make near shape slabs of Carbon Fibre and then epoxy them together. Now to do the manufacturing dwgs and get them to the machinist!! My boomerang enquiry came back. He came in for a demo and I roughed a rang for him. He now has to learn Fusion.... Peter

[OCD-Components]

Peteeng, can I have some clarification, the Bravis-HD, is directed mostly at cutting timber/plastics? Whats the total 'foot print' of this?(assuming it handles a quarter sheet), Do you have an idea of price point yet?

I have been following the Print NC builds, and after many a google search for 'stiff' cnc's(I currenlty have an extrusion based cnc) found this thread, as I would also like to cut aluminium too, not just timber etc. Looking forward to seeing the finished product...cheers

[peteeng]

Hello OCD - In the beginning of the thread the machine was called Brevis-HD. At some point it changed to Yag-600 as it got away from the Brevis concept. The production model is now called Scoot. You can find its details by looking for cncrouterkits.com.au or facebook Tetra Motion. Being commercial I'm not sure how far I can discuss it in this thread. So send me a PM and I can link you to its sites. It does cut aluminium. Peter

[peteeng]

Hi OCD & others - I'll explain a few things about "Aluminium". If you design a machine for cutting timber and plastics it can be lightweight, use cheap bearings and cheap spindles and it will be an economical, satisfactory machine and the Maker will be very happy with it for years of use.

As soon as you mention aluminium or aluminum the machine designer is in a quandary. The machine has to be much much stiffer, the spindle has to be good quality otherwise you kill the bearings, you have to consider lubrication eg if you have a timber baseboard it will get contaminated then when you go back to your nice clean timber jobs it will transfer and muck up your timber finishing. The "mill" will throw swarf all around your garage and it will take a long time to clean up. So an enclosure is needed. Then there is the question about accuracy of the cut, what expectations do you meet? Does the Maker expect a finish like off a mill? or will they put up with a bit of a scuff? Do they expect 0.01mm accuracy or 0.1mm? You read some specs for small machines at 0.001mm and that can't be right. If the machine is your own design and home built you will discover all of these things along the way and you will put up with it. If its your hobby then that's part of the adventure.

If you buy a commercial machine the supplier has to make an accurate presentation of what the machine can do. This is difficult to define. Chinese router machines often say they are engravers not mills for metals. Makers say they only want to cut Al "occasionally" well it doesn't matter if you cut once a year or every day the machine has to perform correctly. So now the designer has to use heavy bearings, make a machine at least 10x more stiffer (should be 100X stiffer) then one that cuts timber, use a good spindle and then how far do you go? From a <100kg machine you jump to a mill that weighs 2 tonnes. The consequences of that are much more costs and stuff is involved. So the machine is "expensive" and the Maker asks why?

Then there is the question of depth of cut DOC. A std DOC is one tool diameter. If you expect a light router to cut AL 6mm deep with a 6mm tool forget it. So light routers cut aluminium by using 0.5mm DOC maybe 1mm DOC and go around the part many times. This wears out the tool fast. Then the small machine can't feed fast enough so its scuffing around the part vs cutting. ie they cannot achieve the correct chip load. But if the Maker is doing this once a month for a personal part then that's fine. If the Maker is trying to make money from this part they won't.

So when aluminium is discussed I have to get a good understanding of what the Maker wants to do and usually I run a sample so they understand what the result is. Often they don't know what they want to do its just a thought bubble so they are making decisions purely on the $$$ value. Scoot-S2-02 in the workshop currently has a cheap 600W DC spindle. It "cuts" aluminium fine but it does have a big runout and it does have a weak shaft which I have bent and straightened twice. Its edge quality is poor by mill standards. You get what you pay for. I tend to build using the cheap alternatives to discover how far they can get you. No point in me building something with the best stuff as it won't let you down. Makers tend to go the cheaper route... except in spindles it seems. I suggest 800W AC and they always pick the 1.5kW seems bigger is better...

Its time to upgrade Brevis/YaG/Scoot-S2 to an AC spindle with good bearings to see how that goes, I have thrashed the poor DC one enough. Scoot-S3-01 in build has a 1.5kW ER17 spindle and I'm interested in how that goes with Al.

So OCD publish a photo of what you want to cut in Al and I can help further... Peter