[peteeng]

Hi All - I picked up the foundation parts yesterday so can start on the next phase of the YaG build. The structural parts arrive next friday week then I'll have everything to build the machine... onward Peter

[peteeng]

Hi All & Sundry - My truck started leaking more from a radiator hose so it was in the shop today getting fixed its been weeping intermittently for a while & I decided it was not getting better . So I couldn't get to the shed to start assembling the foundations. So I sat down and sorted the bolt list for them. So will be Saturday to set them up. That's good as it will give me time to get the bolts.... Peter

between things I've been working on the washroom floor. I'm up to filling and fairing now...

[peteeng]

Evening all - some flying swarf for your entertainment - Peter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkqW-DOXC7w&t=168s

[peteeng]

Afternoon All & Sundry - Been at the Mens Shed to build the foundations of Scoot. All went well. Need to get a couple of shorter screws so they don't bottom but mostly all good for the first fit. Main issue is the nuts came from the supplier back the front for my machine. So next time I shall have to tell them what direction they should be!! So I have to look up how to get these off and back on without loosing any balls.... Peter

[pippin88]

Changing ball nut direction:

Fancy - 3D printed screw

Usual: cardboard tube just small enough to fit nut onto

[peteeng]

Hi Pippin what about a plastic rod vs the cardboard? I haven't started researching this process yet... and I don't have access to a printer maybe the right time to buy one....Regards Peter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVWi8jaZpsY

[peteeng]

Hi All - I shall turn a plastic rod to the minor diameter of the screw and then end bore a hole that agrees with the journal diameter and depth as a centering feature... Peter

[davida1234]

Hi Peter,

I specify on my orders the nuts as unmounted. Then they come on their own plastic tube.

[mactec54]

Afternoon All & Sundry - Been at the Mens Shed to build the foundations of Scoot. All went well. Need to get a couple of shorter screws so they don't bottom but mostly all good for the first fit. Main issue is the nuts came from the supplier back the front for my machine. So next time I shall have to tell them what direction they should be!! So I have to look up how to get these off and back on without loosing any balls.... Peter

Your Ballnut is mounted how they are normally used and assembled, the Flange should face the drive side

You have plenty of room between the linear Bearings where you could can connected it, so it would not need changing, just change your top Gantry to Nut mounting plate

[peteeng]

Morning All - Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll order unmounted in future so this issue is simpler. But mactec raised a good point so I looked at my model and found an anomaly! One side is mounted with flange to the drive and the other side is reversed! Seems I built the LHS and RHS in CAD different. The assm dwg I used to decide it was "backwards" happens to be the backwards one. If I had picked the other side to do the dwg from I would not have picked it up...The Z axis has the flange to the drive but the gantry drive is reversed and has to be that way. So I still need to flip the gantry drive. Always things to sort the first time you do it... Peter

[peteeng]

Afternoon all & sundry - Fred from BST has responded to my question about mounting the ballnuts. They can supply them unmounted on plastic tubes if requested, so I shall do this in future. Back to sanding my washroom floor.... Peter

[peteeng]

Hi All - I assembled the Z axis motor with the NEMA23 to NEMA24 adaptor plate. All good. Now need the structural parts... back to filling and sanding... I tried turning the motor to get a feel for it but it didn't turn but then realised it had a brake! Next time its apart I'll energise the brake to see what happens... Peter

[peteeng]

Morning all - Have word that the structural parts will be available tomorrow. Will pick them up Mon or Tues while visiting another client up north. Qld have restricted the border again but I'm in the border bubble... Peter

[peteeng]

Morning all - I have been building a washroom in my workshop. I have used filled epoxy for the floor levelling and hole filling while creating the fall for the shower. This also has been a test to see what its like for bedding parts in the Brevis-HD/YaG/Scoot build. I've decided to use it for bedding the foundation plate to the machine base. The base is MDF and the foundation plate is aluminium. This is the transition point from wood construction to metal. (see Scoot Base 2) I'm using a filler that I have not used before, I think its mainly glass microspheres by its gritty texture. Cures very hard so I'm happy with that, it trowels well but is a bit tough to sand. I think it would bed rails quite well too.

The blue filler in the photo is epoxy finishing filler and is easy to sand, that's because they generally use talc as the filler... Mix the filler in until creamy and the epoxy is firm and holds peaks. Just like making a Pavlova really. When Scoot is running, its first official job is to make a bigger router from all of my spare parts. So another aspect of the washroom is I'm building the walls and fittings from Oriented Strand Board not plywood. OSB has the same properties in all directions, unlike Plywood which has a direction. It also has greater shear stiffness through thickness which is a plus. This will give me some experience with it. Also its cheaper then plywood always a bonus.

The new router will be called Frankenrouter due to its odd parts and will be OSB laminated with aluminium made on Scoot... probably another thread when the time comes... Peter

[peteeng]

Hi All and others - In the Milli thread I have been chasing a holy grail of a cold castable, machinable material with a modulus of greater than 70GPa which is the same as aluminium. ie I want a material I can cast like epoxy granite but has the same stiffness as aluminium, then finish machine. This has proved to be quite difficult to achieve. Frankenrouter will explore the use of timber and aluminium to achieve some of these aims. Obviously timber can't be cast but it can be machined easily on a router. Now timber absorbs and desorbs water during which process it grows and shrinks. One way around that is called stabilisation. This is a process in which the timber is saturated with a resin. Timber is about 50% air so that 50% volume can be replaced with resin via a vacuum process. I have done this with various timbers and MDF in the past using epoxy and vacuum. PMMA resin is used for this as well, its quite a bit thinner then epoxy so penetrates really well. If I use stabilised timber and laminated aluminium then I expect the result will be very stable. Maybe I can use it for the Mill as well? Time will tell... Peter

https://www.turntex.com/product/cact...resin-and-dyes

[peteeng]

Evening All and ectaras - Picked up the structural parts today. Very exciting. Checked a few bits all looks good. Wednesday will start first fitting and part checking. Need to make or find a big square to square the gantry with. Got stuck today in a couple of places, they wouldn't let me in without a mask. Thought I had some in the truck but no. Stay Safe Peter

[mactec54]

Evening All and ectaras - Picked up the structural parts today. Very exciting. Checked a few bits all looks good. Wednesday will start first fitting and part checking. Need to make or find a big square to square the gantry with. Got stuck today in a couple of places, they wouldn't let me in without a mask. Thought I had some in the truck but no. Stay Safe Peter

Parts look good

A mask is the norm everyone needs to get used to it, I have had the shots and I will still keep wearing a mask, the new Delta strain is worse than the original Covid strain

[peteeng]

Morning All - Trying to build machines and finish the workshop all at once is bothersome. Need a few minions; I like purple, maybe some Umpalumpas as well... YaG is much heavier then my first machine. It uses 3mm galvanised sheet for most parts. I'm happy with the appearance of the material. The thicker parts are stainless steel. Scoot#1 was mainly 2mm steel... I may explore laminating the 3mm in the future vs using the thicker SS...

The parts in the images are for two machines. I need a couple of good flat solid workbenchs vs the temporary plastic fold ups! Will come in time. Today I continue on the washroom, tomorrow into YaG proper. Peter

[peteeng]

I'm off to the Mens Shed to build YaG in the morning --- May have to organise to bring it home. We've got state lockdowns and the Mens Shed may have to close if it gets bad again... Need ready access to get it working asap!!! Peter

[peteeng]

Hey Mactec - I have looked at the welded carriages closely and have decided to get them machined square. One is very close, the other is off too much I think for the bearing car to cope with. Next build round I think I'll do the carriage in machined aluminium (or cast Tetrium). Welding is always an issue with distortion. The welder put on twice as much weld as I wanted. I only wanted the slots filled and they welded both sides... Will be fine once skimmed. I'll stay away from welding in future, was a punt. Peter