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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Avid CNC > PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet
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  1. #1

    PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    I'm having a PRO60120 delivered soon. I'm trying to figure out how I will make the spoilboard. Right now I am planning a glued double layer of 3/4" MDF (or MEDEX if I can get it) No vacuum system. I will be doing a lot of 5x5 full sheet cutting.

    An oversize 5x10 MDF sheet measures 61"x121" so a 5x5 sheet will be 1/2" smaller than the spoilboard on each edge. Looking at images of the PRO60120 it doesn't look like there is a gap between the spoilboard and the side rails of the frame, so any clamping of 60" material on the these edges will have to happen from the surface (or exposed edge?) of spoilboard.

    So I am looking at 8-9mm holes for the threaded inserts centered at only 1/4" from the edge of the MDF... this is not looking good.

    Am I thinking about this correctly? Any advice on dealing with this? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    205

    Re: PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    Support the holes as you drill and drive the inserts, then saturate the surrounding material (MDF) with CA glue. Not a great solution for sure, but better than no glue. I presume the dbl MDF is to allow refreshing an upper worn surface?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    194

    Re: PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    This is what I use for my HT subs and should work for you.
    https://shop.stafast.com/weld-nuts/slab-base/holes

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    829

    Re: PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    I used a piece of Baltic birch for a subtable with various 1/4-20 inserts for clamping, then glued MDF on top of that for the actual spoil board surface.

    For large plywood 4x8 on my machine I spot a few holes, either in the waste or in the parts depending on what we are doing, then screw thru those spotted holes into the table to secure the material.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    44

    Re: PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    Hello,

    Just put a 60120 together a couple of weeks ago.
    This was my solution to get rail protection and a bigger surface.
    I do have an extended gantry, so i can use the bigeer table surface.

    First i put plywood strips onto the frame and made a rebate onto the sides this way the plywaad acts as some kind of dust cover . Fixed the plywood with 8mm screws onto the frame.
    On top i screwed a layer of Mdf with threated inserts. On top there is a layer of mdf that acts as a spoilboard.


    Tip: Take your time to setup the table as square/straight and level as possible!

    DAAD

  6. #6

    Re: PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    Lots of good ideas, thanks!

    I've been digging a little deeper and I can see that the PRO tables now come with a part called "linear dust rail covers."
    Don't see them on a lot of set-ups. Anyone have these and can tell me what the width is?
    Or just verify the clearance between the work surface (measured from the inside edge of the table rails) and the gantry?
    I'm thinking I could attach a t-track on top of that and clamp from there.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Posts
    44

    Re: PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    Plastic covers are 60mm wide, 40mm on the alu etrusion, 20mm overhanging the machine. I'we nade these in plywood so i could put on the first layer of my spoilboard over the frame and act as a dust coved.
    You will be able to attach a t track in the 40mm zone of the extrusion.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    33

    Re: PRO60120 spoilboard design and how to clamp a full 5x5 sheet

    If you can plan ahead waste areas vs finish, you can use Raptor plastic finish nails: https://raptornails.com/ (no relationship with them, just a happy customer). They work great for me - use a rubber mallet to knock things free and nothing to potentially hit with the spindle.

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