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IndustryArena Forum > Other Machines > Engraving Machines > Best alloy aluminum for engraving?
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  1. #1
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    Best alloy aluminum for engraving?

    Hello I am about to purchase some aluminum plate for engraving, and would like to know if there are any better alloys to choose with engraving in mind?

    thanks
    ~Steve

  2. #2
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    I would like to know, too. Is there any way to tell the alloy of a unmarked plate?

  3. #3
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    Hey guys,
    Don't know about the engraving part but if the end product is to be anodisied then the less additives in the alloy the better. These can cause issues during the anodising and cause an uneven finish and blotchie results. Whenever we machine the stuff we run fast with lots of coolant and for some reason HSS cutters don't grab as much as tungsten.
    Boothie

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by srmaietta View Post
    Hello I am about to purchase some aluminum plate for engraving, and would like to know if there are any better alloys to choose with engraving in mind?

    thanks
    ~Steve
    I'd say the easiest would be 6061-T6. It cuts nice and the Surface Finishes are excellent.
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobyaxis View Post
    I'd say the easiest would be 6061-T6. It cuts nice and the Surface Finishes are excellent.
    Yes, this is the case. We have a few parts that have text engraved and it comes out very nice. 6061 also anodises very nicely and can be dyed a great variety of colors. One technique we use is to machine the basic shape then anodize and engrave after anodizing. The result is a nice visible text like the picture.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DaeGauge.JPG  
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geof View Post
    Yes, this is the case. We have a few parts that have text engraved and it comes out very nice. 6061 also anodises very nicely and can be dyed a great variety of colors. One technique we use is to machine the basic shape then anodize and engrave after anodizing. The result is a nice visible text like the picture.
    Geof,

    What Brand of Engraving tool are you using, a Melin Conical Blank 30 Degree Included Angle, or a 60 Degree Mill Drill 2 to 4 Flute???
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobyaxis View Post
    Geof,

    What Brand of Engraving tool are you using, a Melin Conical Blank 30 Degree Included Angle, or a 60 Degree Mill Drill 2 to 4 Flute???
    It is just a 1/8" dia., 90 degree spot drill running at 10,000rpm and I think on those plates 100ipm. The 1.000 refers to the diameter of the semicircle to give you a sense of scale.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geof View Post
    It is just a 1/8" dia., 90 degree spot drill running at 10,000rpm and I think on those plates 100ipm. The 1.000 refers to the diameter of the semicircle to give you a sense of scale.
    What do you recommend for Engraving 316L Stainless?
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobyaxis View Post
    What do you recommend for Engraving 316L Stainless?
    Let somebody else do it .

    I detest working with stainless, getting lazy in my old age I guess. I expect trying to engraving might be difficult, the adage take a deep cut and get under the work hardened surface hardly applies.

    You are going to have to experiment.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geof View Post
    Let somebody else do it .

    I detest working with stainless, getting lazy in my old age I guess. I expect trying to engraving might be difficult, the adage take a deep cut and get under the work hardened surface hardly applies.

    You are going to have to experiment.
    Yea, breaking tool tips comes to mind LOL. I will be trying a Mill Drill 60 Degree Point 4 Flute Carbide Coated TiAlN. Some how breaking the skin will be difficult because the depth of cut will be .005. Maybe I'll Engrave a Surface with plus .035 , then try a Finish Ball Mill, and a Spring pass on the engraving. That tool tip is going to suffer some dulling, LOL.

    Any other ideas Geof???
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobyaxis View Post
    ....Any other ideas Geof???
    The only other idea I have is a bit far out; diamond bit at a very high rpm. I have no real idea whether it would work but I would probablt be tempted to try it as a last resort.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geof View Post
    The only other idea I have is a bit far out; diamond bit at a very high rpm. I have no real idea whether it would work but I would probablt be tempted to try it as a last resort.
    I think your on to something with that idea , but wouldn't a Diamond Chip in 316L SS??? What do you mean as far as RPM, like 10,000 or 20,000???
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobyaxis View Post
    I think your on to something with that idea , but wouldn't a Diamond Chip in 316L SS??? What do you mean as far as RPM, like 10,000 or 20,000???
    Note I said try, I have no idea if it would work. The approach would be to have a high rpm, maybe even the 20000, and a not so high feed so the chip would have a minuscule thickness.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  14. #14
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    If you are only going .005 deep, why could you not simply score it with something like a single point dressing diamond? Sounds like something I would try, although I can't say I have done it before...

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxtras View Post
    If you are only going .005 deep, why could you not simply score it with something like a single point dressing diamond? Sounds like something I would try, although I can't say I have done it before...

    Scott
    These are some good ideas that I'll have to try. For right now I think this company is going with some kind of Laser Engraver.

    I just wanted to bounce the idea off a few others before looking like an idiot in front of the Director of Manufacturing. That would be Bad, LOL.
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  16. #16
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    Diamond drag pin

    Use a New Hermes type diamond tip, don't turne it, use it as a drag pin, I use one in a New Hermes to sign my knives that are made of ATS 34 ss 57 to 60 RC. also use it on 6061 brass bronz or what ever, if it is not as deep as you want make more than one pass. My brother made a spring loaded holder for his cnc and it works for him.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by hot knobs View Post
    Use a New Hermes type diamond tip, don't turne it, use it as a drag pin, I use one in a New Hermes to sign my knives that are made of ATS 34 ss 57 to 60 RC. also use it on 6061 brass bronz or what ever, if it is not as deep as you want make more than one pass. My brother made a spring loaded holder for his cnc and it works for him.
    This is a strong consideration. Thanks Hot Knobs:rainfro:
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  18. #18
    a simple 1/32 or 1/16 ballnose would be sufficient on ss with only a .005 depth of cut

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dertsap View Post
    a simple 1/32 or 1/16 ballnose would be sufficient on ss with only a .005 depth of cut
    The cut would be a little wide though. A 3/16D 30 Degree Conical Blank has a .015 Radial Tip.

    I was planning on doing something like this with Fine Detail in Stainless. What if I used 303SS instead of 316L????

    That might resolve some of the engraving issues.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails FIREBIRD BITMAP 7-28-07.jpg  
    Toby D.
    "Imagination and Memory are but one thing, but for divers considerations have divers names"
    Schwarzwald

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    www.refractotech.com

  20. #20
    what about using a 90 deg carb spot drill ,or a d bit

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