[timmfisk]

Hello, I have a TB6560... here is the Ebay link on my purchase.
CNC Kit 3 Axis Driver + Stepper Motor+ Coupling + Power - eBay (item 170534793548 end time Nov-29-10 17:08:47 PST)

I did not notice that the item came from China before I purchased it and am having difficulty in getting information on the products purchased.

To the point: Does anyone have any detailed specs on the TB6550 board and the wiring for the Stepper Motors (Astrosyn Mini-Angle Stepper Type 23LM-C343-02).

The seller said I could connect a joystick to the board but none of the LEDs are lighting up and the motors are not responding. The kit came with its own power supply.

Also, looking for a free (prefer opensource VB) CAD program. Really, what I am looking for is some software that flows from design to production.

Any help is much appreciated.

[jalessi]

Tim,

Are your motors six wire?

If so, see the attached image for wire color code.

Welcome to the Zone,

Jeff...

[doorknob]

From the photos in the eBay auction, it looks like they are 4-wire motors.

You should be able to use an ohmmeter to isolate two separate windings on each motor.

I recently got one of those TB6560 boards, but have not yet hooked it up - maybe I'll get to it this weekend... I have what looks like the same or similar 24-volt power supply, and the same shaft couplers, but my motors are supplied with six wires (so they can be used either for bipolar or unipolar wiring), and are a bit more powerful than yours.

I have not decided what software to use with them, but will probably start out with the "free mode" of Mach3.

There are a lot of posts on this forum related to TB6560 boards, including some suggested modifications to the boards to improve their operation. I'll know more after I've had an opportunity to play with mine...

[timmfisk]

Sorry for not getting back sooner. Thanks for the help. The picture and using the ohm meter was the way to go.

I contacted the vendor and was told that hooking up a joystick to the controller board would work. I bought a PC (computer) joystick but no joy! My next attempt is to hopefully get the pinouts lined up and maybe it will work that way. I may be beating my head up against the wall here because there seems to be a communication problem in translation with the Chinese vendor.

If you guys have any suggestions, please let me know. Thanks for your help in this.

[Keith1]

I am also having the same problem with the board. Motors do nothing. I have tried multiple wiring to the motors and still nothing. I am not sure what to do now. I have emailed the company and they will not reply once they are sold. Imagine that. I am not really sure what the settings should be in Mach3 and the dip switch settings on the TB6560 board. My motors have 6 wires - Red, White, Blue and Green, Yellow, Black. (GREEN, YELLOW, BLACK is one field) These were 57BYGH633 3.0A Motors and purchased from Wantai Motor. Do not even know where to go from here.

[timmfisk]

Hey, any luck with your board?

[Keith1]

No luck yet. I have looked all over the web and have gotten nowhere. I need somebody to help me with this. I can take pics and post them or whatever I need to do.


Keith

[doorknob]

I am also having the same problem with the board. Motors do nothing. I have tried multiple wiring to the motors and still nothing. I am not sure what to do now. I have emailed the company and they will not reply once they are sold. Imagine that. I am not really sure what the settings should be in Mach3 and the dip switch settings on the TB6560 board. My motors have 6 wires - Red, White, Blue and Green, Yellow, Black. (GREEN, YELLOW, BLACK is one field) These were 57BYGH633 3.0A Motors and purchased from Wantai Motor. Do not even know where to go from here.

Correct me if I am wrong, but judging from your post I am guessing that you do not have an extensive background in electronics. Still, there may be things that you can do to help diagnose the cause of the problem. It would be good if you at least had a digital voltmeter and either a logic probe or at least a crude probe made from an LED with a series resistor and a couple of alligator clips. Of course it would be even better if you had an oscilloscope, but you could probably do OK without one.

I have one of those boards, and I have been meaning to get it set up and running, but lately I've been attending to other problems and have had to put it aside for now. So I can only speak in generalities instead of speaking from first-hand knowledge.

If I were in your position I would start at the PC end of the system and then gradually work my way toward the motors, making sure that all signals and voltages are as should be expected (if you truly have no electronics background whatsoever, then it would be helpful if you could grab a friend who does have some experience for this).

The first thing that I would do is verify that the cable from the PC to the driver board in fact is wired "straight through" (that is, pin 1 of the connector on one end is connected only to pin 1 of the connector on the other end, and so on, for each of the pins that are used by the driver board). While chances are good that if you're using the cable that was shipped with the board, then the cable was designed to be a straight through cable, however it's always possible that you've got a defective cable.

For the suggested tests that follow it will be helpful to have either a schematic of the driver board or at least a data sheet for the TB6560 driver chip, so that you can put a voltmeter probe or a logic probe on the various pins of the chip to see if what's actually there is what's expected.

If the cable is OK, next I'd check the power supply voltages - you probably have a high-current 24v supply as well as regulated 12v and 5v tapped off of the 24v supply. Since it is always possible that your board has one or more bad solder joints or possibly some broken circuit board traces, I would check both the voltages at the regulators as well as directly on the individual TB6560 chip pins (the 12v voltage is probably just used to drive the fan rather than being connected to the TB6560, and so if the fan is running, it's probably OK).

If the voltages are OK, then the next thing that I'd check is the voltage range of the signals from the printer port - it is possible that the board needs signals that swing between 0v and 5v, while the parallel port might only go from 0v to 3v, which might not be enough. IIRC, there are optocouplers between the cable connector and the inputs to the TB6560s, so I would check that the signal voltages on the outputs of the optocouplers reflect the input signals from the PC. You can test this both when the PC's output is assumed to be "quiescent" (that is, when the PC is not expected to be commanding the motors), and when it is expected to be "active" (when Mach3 or whatever CAM software package you are using is supposed to be sending motor control commands to the board).

If you can verify that signals are getting through the optocouplers, then you might want to verify that you are getting something that looks like "step" and "direction" signals when your software is active.

You should probably also check the voltage level on any of the TB6560's "enable" lines and/or emergency stop pin(s) - even if the other input signals are OK, you probably won't get any motors turning if the TB6560s think that they should be disabled. You might also verify that the voltage levels from the DIP switches to the TB6560 pins match the actual settings of the DIP switches.

If things look OK so far, then I would probably focus on the motor side of the board, starting first by checking that you have some kind of voltage output from the TB6560's (that go to each of the motor coils). I would also recheck the wiring of the motors (disconnected from the board - check resistance and continuity through the motor windings, making sure that you can differentiate the center-tap from the "top" and "bottom" of each coil - IIRC the TB6560 is designed to drive the motors as bipolar, and so the center taps are probably not supposed to be connected to anything at the driver board).

Chances are that somewhere along the way you're going to discover that something is not working as expected (software, input or output voltages or signals, wiring, etc.), and you can focus in from there to pinpoint and correct the problem.

[Keith1]

Thanks. I will look into some of this. You are correct about the electronics part. I do know about house wiring but this circuit board stuff is out of my league. I do appreciate the help. I am using the parallel port that is on my motherboard and that could also be an issue. I do have another pci parallel port coming but have not received it yet. I can get the x,y,z,stop inputs to work on the board. I am sure that it will probably be an easy fix. I did use a tester and feel really good that the motors are wired correctly. I am not so sure about the dip switch settings. I really do appreciate the help and have spent many hours on the board for info. Thanks.

[fredxd9]

Keith1, did you get your board working???? I had 3 days of trouble with mine. Just got it running today. You need to review your basics, that was my problem. My printer port was set wrong in bios, it needs to be set to EPP (this was my biggest problem) If your row of activity LED's are on when there is no output from Mach3 (or whatever program your running) your problem is in your computer or cable. Also the computer I was using had all sorts of crap installed, That was a No No. I pulled out an old computer from the closet installed Windows XP HOME (NOT PRO!!! 64bit OS are bad news with Mach3) , a fresh install of Mach3 with the printer port driver installed. plugged in the port and pin settings exactly as the TB6560 manual said. Set my motor tuning to the recommended 2000 ( steps per )for testing. and my steppers came alive. Dang was I pissed I had overlooked all that stuff. I got in a hurry and I should have known better seeing how this is not my first machine. Hope some of this rambling helps. Oh I almost forgot my dip switch was set to 75 percent, fast decay, 1/2 micro-steps. but that was just a good starting point for my motors

[Keith1]

Thanks for the reply to the message. I did get it working. It was the board that was bad. I have been building it for about 35 days and have everything working. I need to build the bottom of my table and then buy the license for the software. Should be running by summer.

Keith1

[sa1]

Keith1, did you get your board working???? I had 3 days of trouble with mine. Just got it running today. You need to review your basics, that was my problem. My printer port was set wrong in bios, it needs to be set to EPP (this was my biggest problem) If your row of activity LED's are on when there is no output from Mach3 (or whatever program your running) your problem is in your computer or cable. Also the computer I was using had all sorts of crap installed, That was a No No. I pulled out an old computer from the closet installed Windows XP HOME (NOT PRO!!! 64bit OS are bad news with Mach3) , a fresh install of Mach3 with the printer port driver installed. plugged in the port and pin settings exactly as the TB6560 manual said. Set my motor tuning to the recommended 2000 ( steps per )for testing. and my steppers came alive. Dang was I pissed I had overlooked all that stuff. I got in a hurry and I should have known better seeing how this is not my first machine. Hope some of this rambling helps. Oh I almost forgot my dip switch was set to 75 percent, fast decay, 1/2 micro-steps. but that was just a good starting point for my motors

fredxd9
I just ordered a 3 axis board, I'm a bit concerned about the DIP settings. I see in the manual there are 3 sets of 6 switches, would that be 1 set for each axis? Also if they are, do I need to have them set the same for all 3 or will having them set different from each other have any consequences in the actual movement of the motors?
This is my current setup---
Motors: 3.4v 1.4amp 6wire 1.8deg
Power/supply: 24v 15 amp 300w
Driver: homemade (diy): no PWM or current chopping, motors heat up.
I've read in other posts that some of the pinouts and settings are the wrong way displayed in the manual. I'd appreciate if you could maybe post a simple sketch of your pinout config. from the PC to the driver board. Also will my powersupply be ok to use? I'm fimiliar in Mach3 settings and motor tuning.
I am currently setup with Mach3 on my router. Works perfect, but limited to full steps only (very rough movements), therefore I opted to tryout
the TB6560 board.

Thanks

[kunte]

I wonder how to determine what the optimal speed of stepper motors. I have engines http://www.slidesandballscrews.com/p...H88-3008BF.pdf SY60STH88-3008 Silent 23rd . I TB6560 controller settings.
Current Setting 25% Decay Mode Settings SLOW, MicroStep 1 / 16. Power Supply 24V 15A. I use to move the wheel spindle with screw 16x4mm and ordinary steel bolts. I have set the Mach3 motor tuning: Steps per 400, 900 velocity, accleration 50, G's 0.0050988, pulse step 0, step dir 0th I have a problem that I jumped from the axis by more than half a millimeter in - but not always.
The nut on the spindle is rotated by hand can be as in other spindles. What can I expect the rotational speed of these engines?

[sa1]

kunte,

According to your info. I calculate as follows:

Motor 200 steps per revolution
Screw diameter 16mm x 4mm pitch
Micro step 1/16

Therefore, I’m assuming your setup unit is metric (mm) and there are no reducing gearboxes or beltdrives are on the axis.
Therefore to calc. Steps for 1mm (unit) movement is:

200 motorsteps divide by 4 pitch = 50
50 multiply by 16 microstep = 800
The motor pulses 800 times to move 1mm (i.e quarter turn of the motor, full turn would = 4mm movement.as per screw pitch)

Steps per = 800 (you are set to 400 therefore there is an error. This is the only setting that would affect the actual calibrated travel distance. The other settings are just to improve speeds, ramp up/down force / torque of motor,etc.)
Velocity can be adjusted accordingly using the slider scale ( I setup about 500 and work from there up or down)
Accel. Can be set, assuming you have zero backlash, for your setup using the sliding scale, just start with a low value and up it progressively to a fairly good setting.)
G’s would auto set itself
Step pulse 1
Dir pulse 1

Current setting should not have any effect on motor speed. I can say for sure that the Steps per = 800 according to what you given me. All of the other settings can be played around and manipulated accordingly.

Hope this helps

[kunte]

Today I tested the "z" axis with different settings, but still motors run down the steps. It appears that the guilty nut, who has too much looseness and it vibrates. I'm looking for a solution to eliminate looseness in the nut

[Keith1]

SA1...
Did you get the TB6560 working? If you are still needing help let me know and I will tell you what I have done with mine. I am pretty sure you should have the power set to 50% and not 75%. I am running 3.0A motors and running the current at 100%. The motors do get warm because they have power applied all the time when active. You are more than welcome to send me a private message or email me at [email protected] for pics of my board or setup.

keith1

[sa1]

Keith1,
Thanks, I'm still waiting for the board. (Damn these Chinese P.O. workers). First board was sent "return to sender" , even before leaving China. I'm due to recieve the board in the next 7-10 working days. Will keep you informed.
thxs.

[safira218]

Keith1, did you get your board working???? I had 3 days of trouble with mine. Just got it running today. You need to review your basics, that was my problem. My printer port was set wrong in bios, it needs to be set to EPP (this was my biggest problem) If your row of activity LED's are on when there is no output from Mach3 (or whatever program your running) your problem is in your computer or cable. Also the computer I was using had all sorts of crap installed, That was a No No. I pulled out an old computer from the closet installed Windows XP HOME (NOT PRO!!! 64bit OS are bad news with Mach3) , a fresh install of Mach3 with the printer port driver installed. plugged in the port and pin settings exactly as the TB6560 manual said. Set my motor tuning to the recommended 2000 ( steps per )for testing. and my steppers came alive. Dang was I pissed I had overlooked all that stuff. I got in a hurry and I should have known better seeing how this is not my first machine. Hope some of this rambling helps. Oh I almost forgot my dip switch was set to 75 percent, fast decay, 1/2 micro-steps. but that was just a good starting point for my motors

I will look into some of this. You are correct about the electronics part. I do know about house wiring but this circuit board stuff is out of my league. I do appreciate the help. I am using the parallel port that is on my motherboard and that could also be an issue. I do have another pci parallel port coming but have not received it yet




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[Shelby5041]

hi i need some help see my thread regaring tb6560 https://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-c...ml#post2383830