[gully]

Happy new year to you all. 1st post from me for 2021
Had time this long weekend to start making up the side paneling and top base from MDF.
Not much to show for 2 days of toil, but progress is progress. Should look good with a coat of paint
Attachment 455740 Attachment 455746
The bump out in the front is removable and fills in the space that a small rotary axis will eventually go. Till then the bump out gives me 80mm extra cut area on the Y axis

Control box build is next cab off the rank it will attach along the left hand side, sort of like this. Still working on final sizing's and parts placement

Attachment 455748


Gully

[gully]

Haven't had a lot of time available to work on the CNC.
Have finally managed to get stock to build the control box, so will start on that next
In the mean time I have just been doing all the 1 percenters and tidying up the parts that have been completed by painting and final fitting them
Attachment 456698 Attachment 456700

more soon

Gully

[ger21]

What's your paint process for MDF? Hands down the best finish I've seen.

[gully]

Hi Gerry,
Thanks for the compliment.
Still using the old tried and true method that I used on my Joe's
I have cut and pasted the how too from that thread. It's really all in the prep work.

Secrets to getting a great finish on MDF. Spray paint it or use a good quality roller with the following methods to suit.

1: Skim the cut edges with a filler. I just use a pollyfiller skim coat type material and when dry sand it back well with a block (this is important as it fills out the little dips that router cutting leaves)

2: Seal the edges properly. There are a couple of ways to do this, I spray mine with a MDF clear high build sealer Its a commercial product used in furniture making to fill out grains, seal edges etc. The other option is to use a hi build easy sand acrylic undercoat and brush or roll it onto the edge then sand smooth.

3: One coat of sealer is not enough refer back to step 2 and repeat until sealed

4: Now prep everything and undercoat entire piece using above methods and /or materials and sand properly when dry.

5: Apply top coats

6: stand back , drink beer and admire your professional looking paint finish

It never fails to look good:cheers:

Gully

[peteeng]

Hi Gully - As you say good paint is prep prep prep... Have you tried white PVA glue diluted 1:1 with water as a sander sealer? I use it a lot. Its sort of like shellac, I apply with a rag not a brush. Just a thin coat if the surface is wet its done.... Will take a 2-3 coats to "level" but you can do lots of coats quick. If the surface is dry to touch can apply next coat. Once level or "filled" as the polishers say then you can undercoat etc. can even continue and use PVA as varnish will keep building to whatever depth you want. Not good outdoors. I have used some brands for outdoor signs and they have failed yet some brands are fine in the wet.. Haven't figured that out yet.... but indoors PVA is cheap prep..

Your clue about using a block is a good one, quality sanding should never be done with fingers!! Peter

[Sterob]

Looks a million dollars Gully. Nice one.

[gully]

Hi Pete,
Your showing your age now.
As a kid building control line planes I would use that to seal and stick light brown paper to the balsa (couldn't afford dope or tissue back then)
Kind of reminds me of my lack build budget now.

Never thought to use it as an MDF sealer. Iv'e clearly been spoilt with all the modern alternatives during my working life.
I will give it a go as the cost would be way lower than using sanding sealer. Plus it will remind me of my youth.

Thanks.

Gully

[peteeng]

Hi Gully - I suppose you were down the back of the class eating the Perkins Paste as well Perkins paste is PVA glue in some sort of carrier. Generally has "non toxic" on it. One of the only glues that is non toxic... unless you go way back to animal glues...peter

[gully]

Laugh.
If it is the same as clag, I will plead I didnt know any better at the time

Gully

[peteeng]

Hi Gully and peers - Seems Clag and Perkins were originally made from potato starch but later on moved to PVA. Cheers Peter

[gully]

Son in law came through this week with the stepper end covers.
He only proof printed them in a low resolution to confirm fit etc.
Good job he did as I needed to make a small mod to get them to fit properly. Will make the appropriate changes to the file so he can finish print them
But as they say, why wait for the good set to arrive when you can work with what you have.
Attachment 457202 Attachment 457204

Gully

[gully]

On holidays now, so finally had time to build the control cabinet
Still need to make the doors, but its painted and fitted. I have most of the electronic kit sitting in my office
but still need to order a smooth stepper so I can move to a modern PC set up
Attachment 458260

Getting closer

Gully

[peteeng]

Looking good Gully - but only 4 things on the todo list? Must be close to the end. Peter

[gully]

Hi Pete.
Wish it was only 4 things on the to do list. Still estimating mid year for it to be working in some form.

Wifey also has a to do list for around the house while I'm on leave. It is longer than my CNC to do list

Gully

[gully]

Hi all
Have finished building and painting the control cabinet, but cant get out to pick up my slotted duct due to yet another covid lockdown here in Victoria
Cant do much more until I can get out and about again
Attachment 458682 Attachment 458684

Gully

[gully]

Well that was 8 hrs of my life spent chasing bees d@#ks that I wont ever get back.
This Attachment 459140 Plus this Attachment 459142

Thought it was time to bite the bullet and tram and shim the rails as required while it was still relatively easy to access the adjustment points
Manged to get 90% of the rails along their length to have a variance from 0 at both ends to less than + .05mm, A few spots ran out to just over +.06mm which is
a way better than I will ever need, and in another universe compared to my Joe's
Still haven't manged to get the slotted duct for the control box yet, but I'm on to it

Gully

[rodw]

Let me know your duct source. Tro-Pacific has it but they sell it in a box containing 12 x 2 metre lengths. Price is not too bad unless you go for 3" high
https://www.tro-pacific.com/products...on-qty-12-grey

[gully]

Hi Rod
Trying a new electrical wholesaler tradezone.com.au as they have what I want in stock

Gully

[gully]

Finally pulled the finger out and picked up the slotted duct.:banana:
To celebrate the occasion, today I banged in all the AC side of the electrics
Attachment 459382 Attachment 459384
Have tested it for correct switching, continuity, insulation and resistance and all is good so will be happy to power it up.
Just need to fit some din rail end stops to keep all the connectors together properly.
DC stuff next

Gully

[mactec54]

Well that was 8 hrs of my life spent chasing bees d@#ks that I wont ever get back.
This Attachment 459140 Plus this Attachment 459142

Thought it was time to bite the bullet and tram and shim the rails as required while it was still relatively easy to access the adjustment points
Manged to get 90% of the rails along their length to have a variance from 0 at both ends to less than + .05mm, A few spots ran out to just over +.06mm which is
a way better than I will ever need, and in another universe compared to my Joe's
Still haven't manged to get the slotted duct for the control box yet, but I'm on to it

Gully

It's not what you will need it what can the rails handle it your rails have preloaded Bearings then you have Zero tolerance what will happen is the rails or bearings will wear quite quickly to conform to the out of spec rail mounting

If the Bearings have no preload then they will have some clearance and won't be a problem