[Mikeedd]

I just got mail, even slowed down during crisis, my friend from China did it again, so only 2-3 weeks for the MK3B version. Now with space for the bearing close to the tool.( I have to adamit the Queens English, isnt my best, so sorry for this..)
Here is pics of mk2 and mk3.. The bearings is still on the way but I will plan the casing now, after ordering my bearings for the mk3 spindle.
I glanced to the Sherline mk2 headstocks a lot, and hope to get same quality with a little outside help.. I dont know about having a male thread on the tip of spindle, as I suppose the drawbar will do the job, and the 10mm hole through the spindle isnt really good for much?
And is belleville washers needed on the drawbar, if its only manually operated?
I would love you to give comments and good advice, as I am pretty and noob :-)

[mactec54]

I just got mail, even slowed down during crisis, my friend from China did it again, so only 2-3 weeks for the MK3B version. Now with space for the bearing close to the tool.( I have to adamit the Queens English, isnt my best, so sorry for this..)
Here is pics of mk2 and mk3.. The bearings is still on the way but I will plan the casing now, after ordering my bearings for the mk3 spindle.
I glanced to the Sherline mk2 headstocks a lot, and hope to get same quality with a little outside help.. I dont know about having a male thread on the tip of spindle, as I suppose the drawbar will do the job, and the 10mm hole through the spindle isnt really good for much?
And is belleville washers needed on the drawbar, if its only manually operated?
I would love you to give comments and good advice, as I am pretty and noob :-)

No belleville washers needed for a drawbar like you want to use, just ( 1 ) hardened washer under the head of the drawbar

[Mikeedd]

I got a spindle and some spares from ebay, the headstock is pretty nice, but heavy.. 15 pounds is my guess.. It will be used temporary for my 10 pounds microlathe, and after for the heavier version I will make.
Pic show spindle, headstock and some other parts, mainly the pretensioned alubuild slide, waiting for a dip in epoxycement :-)
Edit.. I will use the R8 to MK adaptors as tailstock for the lathe, as the 23mm hole through the spindle sounds usefull.. and I feel I got a very nice deal for 200 usd from Ebay, to help me,
The larger lathe will use 20mm rails hgr20cina, but I changed the 132 balls in each car to the right size to obtain a good consisting preload on each, as the rails vary, here it was 4my, so fitted 2my smaller steel balls and all well ,,
20mm hiwin or better cost more than the 40 i paid for the china grade, and is great, compared to the prize, if you finetune yourself..
This wont be a fast build, so feel free to drop in next year :-)
Sorry for the foul language, as it aint my native..

Yours truely, Mikeedditalot.

[mactec54]

I got a spindle and some spares from ebay, the headstock is pretty nice, but heavy.. 15 pounds is my guess.. It will be used temporary for my 10 pounds microlathe, and after for the heavier version I will make.
Pic show spindle, headstock and some other parts, mainly the pretensioned alubuild slide, waiting for a dip in epoxycement :-)
Edit.. I will use the R8 to MK adaptors as tailstock for the lathe, as the 23mm hole through the spindle sounds usefull.. and I feel I got a very nice deal for 200 usd from Ebay, to help me,
The larger lathe will use 20mm rails hgr20cina, but I changed the 132 balls in each car to the right size to obtain a good consisting preload on each, as the rails vary, here it was 4my, so fitted 2my smaller steel balls and all well ,,
20mm hiwin or better cost more than the 40 i paid for the china grade, and is great, compared to the prize, if you finetune yourself..
This wont be a fast build, so feel free to drop in next year :-)
Sorry for the foul language, as it aint my native..

Yours truely, Mikeedditalot.

Moving forward looks good

[Mikeedd]

Here is a quick mock up of the mini cnc-lathe I will build, I guess it will be slanted and with a large cross-slide for gangtooling, but I often change my mind, as I get a lot of inspiration from you guys :-)
The extra spindle will be used for my micro-lathe, with a lighter housing.

I dont know if this link works..but it is my micro lathe build:
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/bench...10-pounds.html

[Mikeedd]

I can see this headstock is very used in mini lathes and there are tons of mods on the net if you search "mini lathe mods".
Very happy for the choise, and ordered 30206 TRB even SKF 10-15usd a piece, as it fits the casting, but could also use 7206B-2rs, as this is sealed. I just believe rollers are stiffer than balls and then Mactec can explain me thees labyrinth seals :-)....
For the spindle to be used in the diy housing, both for the microlathe and the planned vertical mill-build, I think a slimmer bearing in diameter, wil be chosen, maybe a combo of ac plus ordinary radial supporting the drivewheel, or the debatted deep grove stack...
Bicycle Crankbox bearings are often 30mm inner dia, angular, and also hybrid with ceramic balls, and even rpm is lower, a biker puts out around a horsepower.. Picture them jumping the pedals and what the bearings has to deal with.. must be good for any 1hp motor..
I will put the minilathe-build in the other posting, and consentrate on spindle and housing here.

Best wishes, Mike

[Mikeedd]

I hope someone can help me clear this up.
Enclosed pic show how I plan to offset the headstock if the toolholders will be placed in the front as a conventional lathe.
Isnt it better than centering the HS between the 2 longer rails? (shown in picture 2)

-And.. is it a bad idea to rebar the Epoxy-granite ?

My other hurdles is to make a lube system for linear rails and ballscrews, plus figuring out how to mount the tailstock, as I dont think it shall be on the linear rails, but a portal or asymetrical design, sliding outside the rails.

Is it a bad idea to use y-axis cutting off (parting blade) as the newer sandvik system or will this not work without high pressure coolant thru the toolholder?

I know it is a lot of questions, but I have read for months here, without finding answers

Kind Regards Mike..

[Mikeedd]

Well I did some hurt to the fine headstock housing, as I want to lube it with oil, as in a bath, and maybe it wil work maybe it wont, and then Ill just grease the bearings up instead, but the plan is a hole in top for filling oil in, a sight glass on the side facing the user, and a seal in each end of the spindle, probably making more friction than just running grease.
The House is first closed, so a sump can be made, and then yada-yada.
I have discovered that the tapered bearings will pump oil back into the house, so I will flood half of the roller diameter located lowest, and then the oil should travel up the slope and into the house and so on..
I have not shown a pic of the hole on the side, as it is to obscene to show anybody..
I used some yellow plasket, I epoxied in, and will apply more epoxy later, to get the level right. They say epoxy tolerate oil fine..
All in all I have made a mess of a mediocre housing, and even put comical bearings into it. BTW the skf looks much finer inside, than the chineese bearing, so I will buy one more as I dont think the 20 dollars saved, is wise..
More pics when I have tested the setup.

Kind Regards from Mike Edd(alot)