I'm adding a 2"x18"x16" A36 plate between the G0704 and the stand.
I had it blanchard ground on both sides. Anyone else add a plate?
I'm adding a 2"x18"x16" A36 plate between the G0704 and the stand.
I had it blanchard ground on both sides. Anyone else add a plate?
Why did you do that? What are you attempting to achieve?
Stuart
"THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A
The attachment don't work.
I assume it's to increase Z height?.
Remember there is only a certain distance the spindle nose will go to the table.
"THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A
OP hasn't stated what he is trying to achieve. I would assume it would be rigidity.
The stand that comes with the G0704 is relatively well constructed and cost effective, but is made from thin sheet metal which has a tendency to rattle and vibrate. the cast base of the machine proper is stout, and
is a nice stable platform for the rest of the machine. Placing a 2" piece of plate betwixt stand and machine won't accomplish much. Interior bracing of the factory stand would be the first course of action if you were after rigidity of said stand.
Stuart
"THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A
Bolting the machine down to a flat surface like that also presents a chip nightmare, IMO. Even with good way covers it is going to fill up eventually.
Using some leveling bolts and carefully leveling the base is probably more important than bolting the base to something in an attempt to stiffen it.
the idea was added MASS and it gives me a stupid solid place to attach diagnal braces to the column, plus if I want to add a tool changer- rather than attach it to the column, it can mount to the plate. I never planned on mounting the mill to the plate directly, I will set it on 1" rails. That will allow for leveling and chip removal. Just trying it out manually, it sounds and feels much more solid than when it was just on the sheetmetal stand. I'm not advising anyone to do this, I just wondered if anyone else HAD tried it. There's a big difference between trying something and talking about it. My shop has a wooden floor, I'd love to bolt it down to concrete, but that's not and option. Yes, I have support jacks under it. When auto tuning the clearpath servos, it sure had a lot less rattles too. I've seen where people weld up tube frames and fill them with sand or whatever because they sing with harmonic vibration. This plate helps to negate some vibrations because of it's mass. This is the coolest part of doing this: we get to see what each other has come up with.
I set my 0704 on four posts with leveling bolts that are about 3.5 inches tall with the mill installed. The extra space under the mill gives plenty of space for chips to pass into the chip tray. My tool changer mounts off the column and it hasn't been an issue, but I can potentially see how other mounting means would be convenient. The Grizzly cast iron isn't the nicest cast iron I have ever encountered, and tapping holes in it can be a tad problematic at times.
Interesting that your shop has a wooden floor. My shop has a concrete slab on grade that is falling apart. I was thinking about leveling it with sand or potentially a thin topping slab of concrete and laying a wood floor on it. It would have to be a much warmer floor than my slab on grade. Of course, wood prices being what they are, it would cost a fortune to do right now.
dazp1976 ,
I'll stick with my plate rather than "wooden strips". I'm sure you would have chosen other parts for my build other than my clearpath servos, Hicon Integra 6 axis controller, Kurt vises (675, D40, DX6 and DX4)... etc. I notice your first ASSUMPTION was that I was trying to increase Z travel LOL. Cl_MotoTech offers suggestions, I get that. Sorry that I didn't do things as you see fit. You may want to offer your wooden strip idea to industry, I'm sure they'd like to know what they're doing wrong. Again, there's a big difference between trying something and just talking about it. Just remember: Objects (MASS) at rest tend to stay at rest, objects in motion tend to stay in motion... or is that wrong too? The biggest issue I have with this forum is when people with full size commercial machines come on here looking for FREE repair advice, rather that call the dealer. This is the BENCHTOP forum. At least you gave your opinions that came from trial and error, I'm sure you already tried a 2" plate and didn't like it so you went with wood.
My shop is a 10'x14' metal skinned yard shed. I insulated and finished the inside. It sits on a concrete pad that I didn't want to build on, rather set the shop on. That way when I move, I can take the shop with me... I had to leave the last shop when I moved. I've thought about drilling holes and runnng support bars down to the pad, but I've installed support jacks instead. Maybe my next house will have a garage with a nice concrete floor. The bottom of the floor joists are about 6" above the pad, enough room to slide in a couple of small scissor jacks.
It's not the shop I want, but it's what I have.
I asked one question in the first post "Anyone else add a plate?"... I didn't ask "What is anyone's opinion about adding a plate?". Either you've tried this or you have not. Thanks for the opinions, although I was looking for more real world first hand information.
The reason I mentioned my mill mounting is that while it's not a plate, the stand is stout enough that it should add some stiffness to the base of the mill. It's a well triangulated square tube frame. I am not confident it improved the performance of the machine outside providing proper leveling of the machine, and I never made any attempt to quantify the increase in stiffness. I do think proper leveling made a nice difference over the stock cabinet as the table does not twist across its travel now. I will say, I don't think that majority of builds that are concerned about machine stiffness aren.t even nearing the actual potential of the mill, and ultimately the weak spots in the mill aren't the generally perceived weak spots, IMO.
Anyways, good luck! Check out my thread if you haven't already, I have a lot of information in there. It was started to mainly explore F&Ss, but it has turned into more than that.
I've posted on your thread, we've "talked" before. I always liked your discussions. I agree machine level is certainly important, and I agree the machine is pretty decent as is. I'm building on a solid foundation as I doubt there will be any flexing of this plate LOL I think bracing the column will be beneficial because the contact area where the column meets the base is tiny, maybe 16 square inches. I have moved each axis at 490 ipm, WAY TOO FAST! scary fast. Even with the braces, I will limit the rapids to maybe 100-150 ipm... The place I retired from, 2years ago, had just gotten a couple Brother drill+tap kinda mills (tiny), they would rapid at 2000 ipm... break things faster than you can see it happen.