[curiosity22]

Hey G'day folks,

I am looking to buy new/second hand don't care which one of these https://www.amazon.in/Milling-Straig.../dp/B07PBJKYPC I need something that can hold Involute Cutters.

I want to use the rotary on my CnC and try some gear cutting. Been wanting to do that for quite some time now.

If anyone can give me some directions as to who might sell something like that. I don't have a lathe so can't make my own.

Things I don't know is do involute cutters have a standard internal diameter ?


Cheers,
Steve

[Superman]

Depends....
... cutter size depends on # of teeth to cut, circular pitch etc
Normally they are 1" bore, with a varying width & outside diameter.
... keyway width may also change, with a change of bore size

It is easy to make your own. But, as you say, a lathe is needed for the arbor & nut.

1st find the cutter mount sizes (bore, key size, & width), then find then find the arbor.

[curiosity22]

Hey G'day,

Thank you for the information, is there anyone that you know dealing with this type of product?
I am wanting to make gears for building orrerys and similar type items.

Cheers
Steve

[Superman]

So... are you Aus or Kiwi ?
(Try to point to local help)
... what machine ?
... what toolholder ?
( say 1" or 25mm sidelock holder is best for larger toothed cutters, the holder assembly needs to resist any flexing )
By design, your arbor should be as short as possible. Don't climb mill, as this makes the tool flex more

Place the holder & head of your mill where you think it will miss all parts of your 4th axis, (you are working out backwards, the design of the arbour)

The link is to something similar to what you may require, straight shank to suit a sidelick holder. With spacers to accommodate different cutter widths. It can be used with slitting saws, side & face cutters, many gear cutter forms.
NOTE...Don't forget that there is a nut underneath the cutter.... Many have.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/13405310...YaAhvaEALw_wcB

[RCaffin]

If you have an A axis (or B or whatever) you can make very good gears with an end mill. I have made GT2 pulleys this way.
Attachment 482268
They work very well.

You can also get SW from the Gearotic Motion Gear web site.

Cheers
Roger

[curiosity22]

How long did it take you to finish that gear Roger?

[RCaffin]

To get a close-enough approximation to the required gear shape took 3 or 4 passes at slightly different angles - with a 1.1 mm end mill. And both sides of the tooth have to be done of course. With a 1.1 mm cutter, speed is necessarily slow.

I have also cut similar teeth with a custom shaped cutter. Turn GT2 profile on lathe, then cut down half-way. Heat-treated air-hardening steel.
Attachment 482288

How long? That was years ago! Hum - maybe 15 minutes? Maybe 30 minutes? Not any longer I think.

The gears are now in use on the axes of the CNC. The GT2 belts are 'backlash-free', much better than the old sloppy toothed belt designs.
Attachment 482286

The gears also have custom 'Fenner' tapered couplings: the brass nuts.

Cheers
Roger