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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    0

    Thumbs up Wiring and parts?

    Hi all, I have just jointed but have been looking on this site a lot.

    Anyways I just brought a mini lathe Model: CJ0618 Benchtop 300mm Mini Metal Lathe. Plus I got some xtra parts with it.











    The shop was using it as a display model till they removed the main electrics board to fix a customers lathe. But they reordered a new one for this one and never wired it up or put the lathe back together.

    They gave me a printout of a wiring diagram. Not that I know what hardly anything on it is. My problem is what wires go where?



    Start off with mains power. I know this 1 goes together like this.


    And the green wire goes to here from the power cable. The wire on the left goes to the side of the moter.


    This wire is from the motor and the only place I can see it goes is here.




    This is whats in the front electric part. Fuse is missing and stop button.


    Close up of board.


    The red lines are where there is pins for plugs to go onto.


    Then I seen something strange. The switch in the box has a black wire off this leg on the switch. But the 2 other units that I got xtra have a red on them.




    Any help would be nice as im lost.

    I think i got a good deal. Normal cost over here for the lathe is $1050 to $1500. I got it all for $460. Will be a learning thing as never used a lathe before. Brought it to make bushes and spacers and threaded inserts on it for my offroader.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2141
    Here are links to a couple of documents that might help.

    First is a mini lathe troubleshooting guide:

    http://littlemachineshop.com/Referen...leshooting.pdf

    The other one has details about the motor controllers used in the Sieg X2 mini mill, including photos and schematics - IIRC the same or similar motor controller is used in the mini lathe:

    http://www.hossmachine.info/Gerling%...viceManual.pdf


    Although the photos that you have posted do not look identical to what I see in those documents, so maybe none of this will help.

    The author of the second document (Gerling Laboratories) has a business that repairs similar motor controllers, and perhaps his web site will have some useful tips:

    http://www.repaircontrol.com/

    The "KBLC-120" board pictured at the bottom of that page looks to be the same as the board that you have pictured, with several transistors lined up along a common heat sink.

    If I do a google search on KBLC-120 it brings up pointers to sites about a KBIC-120 controller which may be the same thing. For example, see http://www.kbelectronics.com/data_sheets/kbic.pdf

    But maybe there is in fact a KBLC-120 as well (if I force google to search on KBLC-120 instead of KBIC-120) - see http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kblc.pdf

    When I looked for info on the KBLC series, though, I ran across the following statement: "KBLC-120 & 240 - See KBIC Series Drive Installation & Operating Instructions". So maybe the KBIC link above is what you need.

    Also maybe the "motor test tool" on the previous site might be useful:

    http://www.repaircontrol.com/MotorTool.pdf

    So, my apologies for the stream-of-consciousness reply, but chances are that somewhere buried in this stuff you will find your answers...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    0
    Thanks . Will have a looky into them links after work.

    Will have a look on the electric board for model number and I know there is numbers and text side the pins so will let you know more details tonight.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24216
    From what I gather this controller is a KB knock-off, ROC version, it appears pretty close, how close it is in hook up is hard to tell.
    Your best bet is to trace everything out and make a diagram or schematic as you go.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    0
    Have got a diagram of the lathe and all its parts marking them off to see whats missing.

    Sofar I have found 5 parts that I need to it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    0
    The red dots are the parts I have got.
    The yellow dots are the parts I dont have.
    The ones I havent coloured I dont know what they are.



    Anyone got any ideas what the parts are.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    0
    Ok Found out that parts diagram is for a differant lathe and 4 of the parts on it I dont need so that helps I did find a real PDF for my lathe tonight and has helped me work out I only need 2 parts and the bolts I will just get from shop.

    Only need 1x pulley for the belt and the clip to hold it on. and the bolts to hold the side cover on and the bolts to hold the fixed cover on for the left/right feed gears part.

    Also I removed the electrics out of the controler box and found out the model number. KBLC-240D


    Anyone got any ideas on what this part is called or model number?


    Thanks for help sofar.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24216
    If this is connected to the DC drive, or across the motor, then it appears to be a simple resistive over-voltage dumping unit.
    Probabally a zener turns the relay on at a certain voltage and places the resistors in circuit.
    My guess anyway.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Al_The_Man View Post
    If this is connected to the DC drive, or across the motor, then it appears to be a simple resistive over-voltage dumping unit.
    Probabally a zener turns the relay on at a certain voltage and places the resistors in circuit.
    My guess anyway.
    Al.
    Yeh the green plug on it has wies to the motor.

  10. #10
    You could order most of your missing parts from grizzly.
    http://www.grizzly.com/products/g8688/parts
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    0
    Just Perfect dude. I could kiss you. :banana:

    Thats going to help lots.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2083
    Hi Bluezone ,

    the wiring diagram you have and the Grizzly G8688 , if you download it

    are for the FC250J/ speed controller ,this has a simply no volt release circuit

    to start the speed control potentiometer has to be fully anticlockwise

    then the switch at the back of the potentiometer is on and connects terminals 3 and 5

    one of the 2 relays then also connects terminals 3 and 5 to maintain power as you advance the speed control ,

    provided the forward /stop/reverse switch is in forward or reverse , links terminals 6 and 7 ( in stop the relay is released)

    this function is what I think the pcb in post 7 adds to the KBLC-240 controller you have

    if you can post a good picture of both sides and the wiring to the switches I can work out the circuit for you

    at the moment I would guess the resistor R1 just visible on the right is used to give a reduced maximum speed in reverse

    (no link from P1 and P4 on the FC240J control gives you the lower speed)


    the 10W resistrors R2 and R3 ,diodes D1 and D2 , capacitor C1 and relay provide the no volt release / forced start at minimum speed

    and if it's a 2 pole relay the resistor R4 could be connected across the motor at switch off to limit the open circuit voltage generated by the motor ?

    on the FC250J/230V board , two 24v dc relays are wired in series to make a 48 v 2 pole relay powered by the rectified mains ( 240v in the UK)
    the excess voltage dropped by 3 resistors



    John
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails interlock pcb.jpg  

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    0
    Some photos on the wiring.







    Here is a picture of the wires I just drawn up.



    The the power cable sorted last night.





    Got the bolts and couple of other bits today to replace missing parts.



    Test fit and gear selector working.





    Just need to get the pulley for the belt to go on before i can bolt this side all up.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2083
    Hi Bluezone ,

    the diagrams are great but any chance of one showing the printed circuit side of the board with the relay ? :-- need to get the red and brown wires the right way round

    then I can post my revised circuit with the correct wire colours and terminals on the
    speed control board

    john
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails interlock pcb 2.jpg  

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    0
    So a photo of the Back of the board? The board with the blue box on it?

    Just seen the green wire thats at the bottom of my diagram has a smaller plug on it then the others is 1/2 the size and its the only 1 like it. The KBLC-240D has 2 small pins that this wire could connect to.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2083
    Hi Bluezone ,

    yes thats the board the blue box is the relay

    I need to trace the connections from the red , brown and yellow wire to the relay

    the green wire needs to connect to the negative side of the control circuit.

    in the KBIC-125 manual , a stop switch was connected to terminals 1 and 2, when connected together the motor is stopped, and runs when open circuit

    an external control voltage was shown connected between the un used -F terminal and P2

    if terminal 2 on the KBLC-240 is connected to one end of the minimum speed potentiometer , the green wire could be connected to it .
    without this connection the lathe will run the same speed in forward and reverse.

    John

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    0
    Will take a photo now for you.

    Also the fuse holder would this one be ok to use. Has 2 plugs on it. I got the fuse with the lathe it it looks fine.
    Panel Mount Fuse Holder - Low Volt Only - Accepts 3AG fuses - Jaycar Electronics


    or there is this one.
    http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....r&form=KEYWORD


    Anyone know what amps and volts go into the fuse holder.

    Update: Photo of back of board. The green square is the green plug that goes to motor. I have drawn coloured lines to where the wires go to.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2083
    Hi Bluezone ,

    you need the mains version of the fuse holder eg jaycar CAT. NO. SZ2025

    just remember to connect the mains supply to the rear tag

    that way if you remove a good fuse with the power on you don't get a shock

    with some fuse holders , a good fuse can connect you to the tag on the side of the holder !!!!

    John

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by john_100 View Post
    Hi Bluezone ,

    you need the mains version of the fuse holder eg jaycar CAT. NO. SZ2025

    just remember to connect the mains supply to the rear tag

    that way if you remove a good fuse with the power on you don't get a shock

    with some fuse holders , a good fuse can connect you to the tag on the side of the holder !!!!

    John
    Thanks. it dont say what mounting size hole it uses. the hole in the control box is 15mm. Mite have to have a hunt for specs on that fuse holder.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    0
    Right I have updated my drawing. Any one know how much contacts are on the E-Stop button?


    Im working on drawing the motor on to this drawing at moment also. This should help out when working out wiring and help others with this lathe.

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