[flyboy1015]

I have finally "completed" my solsylva machine. I still have to get the limit switches working properly and get the wires run/suspended so the machine doesn't get into them. I did run a test cut of some blue foam as a test. It's pretty exciting to get a machine finally running. I'll post some pictures and maybe some video very soon. Just wanted everyone to know that I found some great information here and it has helped a lot during the construction phase and the software setup etc.

Solsylva approx. 24" X 36" dual lead screw design
home-made power supply
Linistepper controllers
Probotix HT23 200-6 stepper motors
AMD K6 running TurboCNC

Check back in the next day or so for updates and experiences that I want to share/help for others getting started.

[flyboy1015]

Here are some pictures. You can see my transformer. I robbed it from a smoked audio amplifier. The primary on this is good for 8 amps. The transformer dumps into a bridge rectifier and then to a 16,000uF capacitor. I got that from a co-worker who is also a Ham radio operator. I'm running my motors at 34 volts and 1 amp. They run great haven't gotten hot.

The Linistepper controllers are mounted to a large heat sink. I also mounted fans to blow across the fins. I burned up a set of transistors because I didn't have it connected well.

There is a terminal strip so I can easily get power to/from anywhere else in the box. You may notice that I have a circuit board next to my breakout board. That provides the +5VDC for my Linistepper controllers and the 12VDC for the fans. Same setup as the main power; bridge rectifier, capacitor, but in this case, the last step is voltage regulators.

For my motor cable connections, I used AMP connectors. The red loop in the connector is the power lead. If the connector were to be accidentally disconnected, the drivers wouldn't be smoking because there is no load connected. It's a safety interlock of sorts.

The X-Axis required some adjustment that wasn't accounted for in the plans. When I started running the belt, it would walk across the tensioner pulley. I put a stud next to it with a short piece of sheet metal. This allows me to "pull" the tensioner a bit to keep the belt running straight.

Already, I can see why everyone uses a belly-band type of router mount. I can't see anything under the router when it's cutting. If/when I get into some work with a little depth to it, I'll need a different mounting to allow the space needed for the router to maneuver without crashing into the work piece. Anyone know of a good source for these and a Bosch Colt router???

[flyboy1015]

More pictures.

[DDM]

Looks good, do you have any pictures of the whole machine. I like to get an over all view of the machines. How do you like that router, I've been looking at getting a trim router for my just plain old wood working and that bosch looks good and is rated high.

[flyboy1015]

Here's a picture of the whole machine. I really need to build a table for it, but wanted to at least run something with it since I'll be out of town for a few days.

I like the Bosch router. I used it for quite a while while I was building the cnc. It's great for doing roundovers and such. I really hate taking my big router out of the table just to do stuff like that. It's been very handy. I kind of hate to give it up to the cnc, but that's the whole reason I bought it.

I've done a lot of cutting today in foam. Great thing is that it cuts easy and doesn't wreck your tools if you go too fast! It's a bit cheaper than a piece of wood too.

I'm trying some different software to see how I like the way it does G-code. CamBam is pretty good, but the programs seem to run a bit slower when doing text than do the text done in DeskEngrave. I do like CamBam's heighmap function. I plan to try it soon, in foam, of course! I haven't tried any special parts yet but that will come soon. I'll probably see how things go with a real piece of wood within the next week.

[flyboy1015]

It's been a while since I've posted and wanted to say that I'm in the process of making a new mount for the router. The old one is just a right angle aluminum with the router base mounted to it. I can't see the bit very well when i want to zero the machine or to see how it's cutting. I've decided to make some mounts similar to those that K2CNC sells. Mine will be made from nylon and the mounting bracket will be aluminum. I should have it finished this weekend and can post some pictures then.

[flyboy1015]

I finally have the table built for my machine. In my excitement, I had cut some things with the machine sitting on the floor. You can also see the mounts that I cut so that I could see the cutter. If you look at the plywood next to the router, you can see the shape that I cut.

I can see that I will probably continually be updating my machine. I guess you can never really say that it's "complete."

[joecnc2006]

the machine looks good, you will be having alot of fun now.

Joe

[flyboy1015]

Now that Christmas has passed, I have some time to gather my thoughts and post some pictures. Attached are some pictures of some of the work that I've done. Most of this is custom as I didn't have a drawing to work from and had to generate my own. I use Autocad to draw and CAMBam to set up the machine operations and generate the g-code. I want to get into some picture carving and more complex machining now that I'm no longer under a time crunch.

[joecnc2006]

those look good wish i had the time to cut some things for myself.

Joe

[flyboy1015]

I've been doing some work and still learning how to set up more quickly. Take a look at my site, I finally have one up and running: www.chadscustomwood.net

[Weldtutor]

Nice set-up on your new web site!

Your machine seems to be doing a fine job for you.

The signs look great.

What font did you use for the "Computer Works" sign?
Is it a single line (stick) or double line (outlined)?

Thanks, WT

[flyboy1015]

Weldtutor,

I scanned their business card, then imported the raster image into AutoCAD and traced the logo to make the sign. I've been trying to find a variety of single line, single stroke, machine tool, engraving, whatever font, and can't seem to find anything useful. If I find something, I'll be sure to post.

[pipertom]

flyboy1015

Did you find the bearings for your Bosch Colt?
Mine just cra**ed out last night. I would be interested in repairing this one rather than buying another new one. Although I would try a different brand if I did. The Colt didn't last as long as I thought it should. I would say less than 100 hours, although some of the projects ran over 2 hours continuous run time. So it may have been the long cuts that did it in.

Thanks
Tom

[flyboy1015]

Tom,

I had the same experience. I think the long runs caused my problems as well. I got my bearings from this guy: http://stores.ebay.com/BEARING-BARGAINS Prices are pretty good. I bought a couple of each in case it crapped out earlier than expected.

You'll need a 627-ZZ (7 X 22 X 7 mm) for the upper bearing. It's a double-shielded. The lower was a double sealed, but I opted for a double-shielded to see if it holds a little longer. The original lower bearing is a 6002-2RS (15 X 32 X 9 mm). The double-shielded bearing part number is 6002-ZZ.

Hope this helps.

Chad

[pipertom]

Chad,

Thanks , Thats a great help. saves me a lot of researching. I had gone to Gardner where I found 1/8 collets that fit. But they don't carry the bearings.

Thanks again,
Tom

[flyboy1015]

No problem. I did a lot of researching before I found those. Prices vary greatly. This guy sent them out pretty quickly. He's running an Ebay store, so it takes a day or two to ship out. After that, it's in the hands of the shipper.

A tip on disassembly, you'll need to use a spanner wrench to get the washer off on the bottom of the router (near the collet). Everything else is pretty easy to disassemble. You'll need a gear puller to get the top bearing off. Be careful not to scratch the shaft. That top bearing is pretty snug. Everything comes out from the bottom. The top part has the electronics that provide speed control, either variable or fixed.

It's a bad deal to have your router go down. Best wishes on your repairs.

Chad