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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133

    First Router Build - 4x4, steel, R&P

    OK, so like many others, I've been lurking for a long time, and have had some help from you guys which has been great! So now I've finally got some time on my hands to start my router. My shop has been in need of a cnc for some time now as my business produces some difficult parts to make by hand. I also plan to start making some precision templates for my dealers.

    Purchased all the steel locally plus rumaged through their scrap bin for odds and ends.
    Ordered the following...all on it's way:
    -55" supported hardened rails w/pillow blocks from vxb.com (x axis)
    -425oz Xylotex 4 axis kit (2 for x axis)
    -3 49" racks (part# 200012) from stdsteel.com
    -8mm ID ball bearings (y and z axis)

    Hoping to cut:
    -49x49x6"
    -Mostly MDF, some polycarbonate, acrylic, light aluminum cutting

    Plans:
    Racks on the side of the table to drive the steel gantry. The Z-Axis will be MDF for now because I have no way of *inexpensively* machining the metal to make mounts... etc, just basic metalworking tools. Still need to buy a PC router, a cable organizer, and misc. nuts and bolts and extras.

    This machine has grown from the original design of a 12x12 all MDF/acme router into what it is. I've drawn up (with my limited autocad skills) two different designs which this has changed from, so I'm just kinda wingin' it.

    2 questions before ordering any more parts
    1. Where do I get gears for my racks?
    2. Should I gear down the motors or use a direct drive?

    OK - Pictures!

    The metal from our local fabrication shop.


    All welded together. My poor 944's new home is outside the shop...


    The start of the sides of the gantry.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1469
    Quote Originally Posted by cxixer View Post
    -3 49" racks (part# 200012) from stdsteel.com
    The 200010 would have been a better choice IMO


    2. Should I gear down the motors or use a direct drive?
    I would gear them down using belt and pulleys. However have a look at the Mechmate. They direct drive their pinions

    Greg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    296
    I'm interested in a steel router of this size, will be following up on this thread.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133
    More pictures coming soon...

    About the gearing issue.. How much should it be geared down? 1:2, 1:3 ? What would the benefit be?

    I'm getting ready to order the gears and am not sure what to get.

    Thanks!



    By the way -

    Greolt - your blue router is a big inspiration of mine. Absolutely an awesome design - and your input is always appreciated!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1469
    I use Geckos but there are quite a few blokes over here using the Xylotex driver and they say that the practical speed you can rely upon is about 300 rpm motor speed.

    My thinking when deciding on gearing ratio was as follows.

    Belts and pulleys are not cheap and because of the compact design of my mounts it was not desirable to change this part once made.

    In contrast the pinions are quite cheap and easily changed if ratio did not work as well as hoped.

    The theory is that it is best not to go below 20 tooth with my size rack. Upper limit does not matter.

    So I started with 24 tooth pinions and 4 to 1 reduction ratio on the pulleys.

    This has worked very well for me so no pinion size change was needed. This is approx 100 steps per mm (1/10 micro step)

    I'm using similar motors to what you have ordered and with Mach running at 25000hz I can rapid at 7500 mm per min all day with very brisk acceleration setting.

    That's about 375 rpm. Remember I'm using Geckos not Xylotex.

    If I bump it up to 60000hz it will rapid at over 15000 mm per min but this is way too fast for my comfort.

    Remember that my machine is smaller than yours so it is not as far to go before reaching a limit.

    Might also be worth getting an idea from Xylotex what a reasonable top RPM can be expected with that combination.

    Hope this helps, Greg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133
    up to 14 hours of labor...











    Those rails are well worth the money, I can move this ~40lb gantry with little more than a light breeze.

    Any comments, suggestions?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    kEEP IT UP .. I AM CONTINEOUSLY WATCHING UR PROGRESS.... I WANA SEE THIS MACHINE RUNNING MAKING FLOWERS AND UR DREAMS IN REALITY..:_)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    Hi, I am studying different designs and component costs. Could you tell us about how much the rack and pinions costs ?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    312

    Looks Great

    Looking Good. I just sold my cnc a few weeks back to a great fellow member of the zone. Now I am looking to build another one. I am gonna follow this build. It looks like what I had building up in my head. Gonna be a great looking router. I am gonna mount my rails on the sides about 6" below the table surface. There is another router a member here has built and It looks great. Hope he dont mind if I post one of his pics. But here is kinda what I had in mind.
    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails full%20machine.jpg  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by harryn View Post
    Hi, I am studying different designs and component costs. Could you tell us about how much the rack and pinions costs ?
    The racks cost 16.50/ea from stdsteel.com - with shipping it was $74 for three racks. They don't accept credit cards which is odd. And they don't sell gears, so I'm still sourcing them. I need to order the gears and an acme screw for the Z axis and I should have everything to complete it.

    I'm up to 20 hours of labor so far. Kinda had an oops moment, didn't take into account the rail and bearings for the lower gantry support and ended up with very little room underneith, so it's gone. Thats what I get for building without much of a design. It is very sturdy with just the top support, and now has rails on it. This thing is so smooth, it could probably be driven on just one side with no problems.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    It will better to use Ball screw in place of acme rods:-)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    296
    Quote Originally Posted by planekrazie View Post
    Looking Good. I just sold my cnc a few weeks back to a great fellow member of the zone. Now I am looking to build another one. I am gonna follow this build. It looks like what I had building up in my head. Gonna be a great looking router. I am gonna mount my rails on the sides about 6" below the table surface. There is another router a member here has built and It looks great. Hope he dont mind if I post one of his pics. But here is kinda what I had in mind.
    Steve
    I had my eyes set on this one for a while too, indeed a sturdy looking and attractive design, and the speeds are nice too, did you see the videos he has of it?

    Cxixer, looking good so far, you know how we in the zone love those pix, keep em coming.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    It will better to use Ball screw in place of acme rods:-)
    Yes it would, and more expensive! Although it may not seem that way, I've been trying to cut costs here and there, which is one of the reasons for R&P instead of ballscrews. And why I'm using skate bearings on the Y and Z axis instead of nice linear bearings. I believe they'll hold up just fine and I bought some nice ball bearings for this purpose instead of costing me another arm or leg.

    I'm trying to get this built rather quickly as to start producing parts asap. I'm also trying to figure out the CAM and Control software - about 1/4 through the Mach3 manual now...

    More pics soon!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    312
    Delete. Sorry I found the answer a few posts above
    Steve

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133
    More pics as promised.

    Everything moves!




    It's a little taller than the 6" travel I was needing, but now it can handle 10" high workpieces!


  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    have you seen my design under thread " Build the router in 10 Days".

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1016
    who the manufacture of your Yaxis rails and also what diamaeter are they
    looks like 30mm OD. And the linear bearing set who makes them?

    Can you tell use where u got them and how much...

    how much does the gantry weigh do u guess when your done?
    what motor type are u going to use stepper or servo for this size of table
    and what size and torque?

    can we get close look of the mounting of your rack relative to the y axis..of the linear set bearing, want to see how your going to drive the rack
    with rack and pinion.... had the same idea,,, but was thinking of away to keep
    saw dust / dirt away them.



    looking good...

    Quote Originally Posted by cxixer View Post
    up to 14 hours of labor...











    Those rails are well worth the money, I can move this ~40lb gantry with little more than a light breeze.

    Any comments, suggestions?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    have you seen my design under thread " Build the router in 10 Days".

    Yes I did see this, I'm afraid it will take a few extra for me as I still need to order my gears and timing belts/pulleys for the motors.


    eloid - The rails are 1" ID conduit from a hardware store.. ~1.25OD, ~$18/ea. The steppers I have are listed in the first post. And I'm not sure about the drives yet, havn't built them.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    133
    OK, so the only timing belt pulleys I can find that will fit my 1/4" shaft xylotex motors are polycarbonate and will only accept 3/8" wide belts. Should I try to find bigger (and metal) gears and just figure out a bigger shaft to attatch them? Or will these small toyish gears work?

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    31
    Hey,

    The build looks great so far.

    Brian

    [email protected]

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