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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > CNC "do-it-yourself" > How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    12

    How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?

    I am piecing together a CNC machine and want to use this part I salvaged from a robot for the z-axis.
    I guess the intended mounting mechanism must be the small flange (6mm thick, jutting out 5.4mm from main body) on the bottom of the assembly, see pics.
    I could tap holes into the bottom instead of trying to make some fixture for this flange but the aluminum is relatively thin and the holes would go into a space that's otherwise kind of sealed off.

    This linear stage will be attached, somehow, to a 12x12cm heavy vertical square steel tube which serves as the z-axis part of the machine frame.

    Anybody know what this flange/lip mounting system is called? And how it is supposed to normally be mounted onto a machine frame?
    Before I figure something out myself I wanted to ask here so I'm not wasting time trying to invent a fixture for it when something might already exit. I'm thinking some kind of L-shaped aluminum bars that sit on the 12x12 beam with the L situated to overhang the flange and with screws through the bar so the overhang presses onto the flanges to secure it.
    I don't really have tools to make such a part though (I would try to use my wood router to route out the L shape from a bar of aluminum).

    "ERO" brand linear stage/actuator
    Attachment 492798

    lip/flange
    Attachment 492800

    lip/flange
    Attachment 492802

    end view
    Attachment 492804

    bottom view
    Attachment 492806

    peek inside
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	492808

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    5728

    Re: How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?

    If there aren't any holes in the back (which actuators usually have) then your idea of attaching it by the flange could work. But I'd suggest simply drilling through it and bolting it to a plate, rather than trying to pinch it somehow, especially since you don't have the right tools to make that work. (A freehand wood router isn't really suitable for machining aluminum - it sounds dangerous.)
    Andrew Werby
    Website

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    12

    Re: How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?

    Thanks for the reply.
    I did think about the bolt option but wondered what the real industrial mount for this looks like.
    Perhaps this was a custom case made by ERO for a custom robot and there is no standard...

    I suspect I could route a rabbet into the edge of a thick aluminum plate, just make light cuts and pay attention to the forces, but if I can avoid that I probably will.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    3110

    Re: How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?

    Mount an over wide plate onto the rear that has thru holes onto your beam. Consider additional holes to allow raising/lowering the Z axis(& motor) assembly on the beam.
    The mounting holes would be accessible when tramming.

    You would be able to shim the plate forward/back & rotate the assembly to tram perpendicular to the table.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    12

    Re: How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?

    Thanks for the reply. I had actually started out that way, pulled out some aluminum plate for that and was starting to design it but curiosity got the better of me and I made this post because I really wondered what the intended mounting method was for this flange thing. I can see one advantage in being able to slip the axis up and down along the flange but otherwise it seems harder to deal with.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    5728

    Re: How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?

    If you can drill a regular array of holes. it's possible to move the slide up and down by removing the bolts and resecuring it in a different position.
    Andrew Werby
    Website

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    12

    Re: How to mount this linear actuator with flange thing on the bottom?

    Since nobody has replied about the flange mounting option I did indeed end up just drilling holes in the back of the actuator.
    The z assembly will look something like this, with the wood eventually being replaced by aluminum plates (what I have on hand). I wanted to do it in wood first since it's way cheaper and not a big deal to make a mistake with.
    I bolted the spindle mounting bracket to the top wood plate, that plate to the z-axis carriage, the back of the actuator to the long plywood plate below. However I'm still debating where/how many holes go into that bottom plywood piece to attach it to the 12x12cm steel z-column. As it stands, that will be the only point that's adjustable, I mean, I can drill oversize holes in it in order to allow adjustment side-to-side, up/down. Any thoughts on that? I guess the vertical angle could be trammed by sticking shims behind that bottom plywood (evtl.. aluminum) plate. I'm currently thinking two M10 or M12 (my biggest tap size) bolts on the low side, two on the high side. The aluminum plate will either be 16mm or 20mm thick (I have both but the 16mm is going to be easier for me to cut since it's almost the right shape). I also have a problem that as pictured, the tip of the cutting bit will be 17cm from the z-column front face and it should be at least 18cm to allow travel the length of the table on that axis. Not sure how I'll solve that yet, maybe add another aluminum plate on the side below the actuator.
    The dial indicator in the photo below was to see how much the bit moved when I pushed on various locations of the mounting assembly.

    Attachment 493344



    Drilling the back of the actuator. I found the best I can do with what I have for marking the holes accurately is design the layout on the computer, print it out, tape it on and use a small optical center punch to indent the spots.

    Attachment 493346

    Attachment 493352

    Attachment 493348

    Attachment 493350

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