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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    64

    Keling motors, drivers and power supply connections

    I have 3 425oz motors and 3 5042 drivers with 1 36v power supply. i am a little confused about the connections on the drivers. i have a motor connected to the driver with no problem. i have 1 wire connected from the driver to the breakout board. that is about all i can under stand from the wireing diagram located here http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-5042wiring.pdf. i am not sure what the box is called that is to the right and just below the breakout board that has a "- + 5 volt" in it. also how do i connect multiple wires to 1 slot on the beakout board? Any idea?

    Jim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    532
    5V box is 5V supply, there probably was small transformer that came with your order. There should be two wires going from BOB to drivers. Pin 2 and 3 for X axis, 4 and 5 for Y, etc.

    Not sure what you mean by connecting multiple wires to 1 slot? Each wire has its own connection, at least on the diagram.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    64
    ok. i have the 5 volts that is needed and i have the motors,drivers and the power supply connected exactly and the diagram showes. When i put power to the system i still hear the motors enguage and i still hear them hissing. I just can't make the motors move. I have configured Mach3 and have watched the tutorials for setting it up. I have the software loaded on a windows 2000 system and have reloaded Mach twice now. Nothing i do can make the motors move. Am i leaveing anything out?

    Jim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    532
    can you post picture of your wiring? and mach 3 ports and pins screen with input tab visible .

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    64
    :banana:
    Quote Originally Posted by rustamd View Post
    can you post picture of your wiring? and mach 3 ports and pins screen with input tab visible .

    IT WORKS :banana:IT WORKS. :banana: it was an incorrect jumper setting on the breakout board. I still need to tune the motors because it is slow, very slow. i guess that is because i am useing 1/4 inch all thread instead of the acme ones. just need more money i guess. But IT WORKS :banana:

    Jim

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    532
    6 feet of ACME is $6.99 at enco, I'm sure you can collect that in one day if you dive under seats in few cars

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by rustamd View Post
    6 feet of ACME is $6.99 at enco, I'm sure you can collect that in one day if you dive under seats in few cars
    (hmmm where are the keys to my wifes car?) I think i can handle that. I am not sure all i'll need any suggestions for a newbie?

    Jim

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    532
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitroghost View Post
    I am not sure all i'll need any suggestions for a newbie?

    Jim
    It helps if you are able to take a seat out, find more that way, tell wife you cleaning

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by rustamd View Post
    It helps if you are able to take a seat out, find more that way, tell wife you cleaning

    Good idea.

    what should i look for when i get the ACME lead screws? my setup is 24'' X 48'' and is made out of 3/4 MDF i have never used the "good stuff".

    Jim

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    532
    I would use dumpster antibacklash nuts and 1/2" rod. Is this what you are asking?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by rustamd View Post
    I would use dumpster antibacklash nuts and 1/2" rod. Is this what you are asking?
    kinda i have 1/4-20 allthread and skate bearings for all three axises. Is that all i will need and will it work with 3/4 MDF?

    Jim

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitroghost View Post
    :banana:


    IT WORKS :banana:IT WORKS. :banana: it was an incorrect jumper setting on the breakout board. I still need to tune the motors because it is slow, very slow. i guess that is because i am useing 1/4 inch all thread instead of the acme ones. just need more money i guess. But IT WORKS :banana:

    Jim
    Hi there, I am having axactly the same problem, can you be a bit more specific about the jumper setting an what the axact problem was,


    Cheers.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    969
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitroghost View Post
    :banana:


    IT WORKS :banana:IT WORKS. :banana: it was an incorrect jumper setting on the breakout board. I still need to tune the motors because it is slow, very slow. i guess that is because i am useing 1/4 inch all thread instead of the acme ones. just need more money i guess. But IT WORKS :banana:

    Jim
    what jumper position do you have
    The opinions expressed in this post are my own. -Les opinions exprimé dans ce messages sont les mienne

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    8
    Hi ataxy-
    Im building a simillar machine off of the buildyourcnc.com site, I haven't bought my motors or controller package yet, but the enco threader rod was a good price, the nuts are 1.25 each or something, With the couplers and backlash nuts from dumptsercnc it was around $120. The Z and X axis turn real smooth by hand right now, it was a little more assembly and I had to make a bracket to mount the backlash nut to. I have pictures on my myspace page under user name bluerobotkid.

    Are the 425 motors working well, the torque curve looks like it drops off at a slow rpm?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    5

    Stepper motors atached to mill

    I bought the 495 ox-in 4 set package and got it all hooked up. I just wanted to let you all know that for my machine it worked out great. I have plenty of power. Just so you all know I have retro fit the Craftex B1976 Mill/Drill which is the same asall of the following: Clarke CMD 1225, Rong Fu RF 31, Grizzly G1005, King Grip16 or PDM 30.

    Aslo remember that L on the wiring diagram is Live wire from 110v wall source, and N is Neutral.

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