[Khalid]

Steve,
It will be good if we can have PCB alongwith boot-loaded firmware PIC from you. What will be the price?
Regards

[redpiperbob]

Hi Steve not to worry stripboard it is. Ill let you kow how I get on.Thanks for all your hard work on the project
Bob

[Khalid]

@Khalid
Just one point with regards your driver, the maximum number of steps my controller can issue per full revolution of the table is 65535.

Hi Steve,

At What KHz your controller work?... Considering G203V is 10microstep drive with 40:1 gear box and 200 step motor then, 40000 steps for one revolution...

This means that one revolution of rotary table will take How many seconds to complete?
Regards

[gandalf1]

I'm afraid I am slightly confused with this 4000 steps/turn using a 40:1 gear ratio and 200 step motor. Surely 40 times 200 motor steps equals 8000 steps per turn of the table? Does that not mean the max would be 1/8 micro step? giving 64000 steps per output turn of table.
Confused John.

[backyard_cnc]

I wonder if anyone has CNC milled a PCB for this rotary controller and if so I wonder if you might share the code?

Gerald

[gionata73]

Hello everyone, can anyone help? I'm trying to know the size of the PCB from the rotary table published, as in Jpeg can not resize correctly for print, if I knew the measurements with photoshop I could crop and print properly.

For all other info, I'm looking at a network controller type on this project, but to move a mill in a stand alone without using a PC, if that is possible with open source for the PIC. Thank you all

[backyard_cnc]

well the PDF file seems to print correct size on my printer and it measures 3.875 inches by 4.9 inches on paper and since the pin spacings on the PIC measure good at .1 inch I suspect this is very very close. If you download the free version of EAGLE for PCB design you can open the .brd file that is included with the other files. You can verify any dimensions accurately there. I am just getting ready to try making a PCB so we shall see what happens

Gerald

[nerobi15]

I have a Domestic Rotary electric sewing machine series 153. I don't know how to run it. I plug it in and the light works so I know that the it's getting power. Can someone please help, How do you use a Domestic Rotary electric sewing machine series.

[backyard_cnc]

I should clarify that the PCB dimensions are for the PCB with the attached keypad switches and not the original PCB which uses a separate keypad. This PCB design was by another poster not the original designer of the project. I am planning to use this integrated PCB for my build!

Gerald

[Khalid]

Hi Steve,
I am using Gecko drive G203V with 70Volts and 4Amp Stepper in Bipolar mode.... The program is working fine and stepper get step and direction pulses and rotate the table very easily... I have used 60KOhm resistor on Gecko stepper drive to limit the current for 4Amp...
I have following problem..

1- The stepper holds but it can be rotated by a little push of hand..
2- The torque of the motor is very low.. The chuck can be stopped with a little push of index-finger..... I do not know why this happen..

The same motors with Gecko G203V is on my CNC Milling and they hold tight can't be rotated by hand... What might be the cause?

[Khalid]

Hi Steve,
Here is the connection diagram to Gecko.. Can you tell me what the 'ENABLE' pin is for on your controller? I have talked with Marcus and he told me that the terminal named 'DISABLED' on the G203V should be left free or you can supply +5V to it.. If it is connected to GND then the motor can be freely move, if it is floating i.e. not connected or connected with +5V it will hold the motor tight...
Currently the Terminal 'DISABLED' on G203V is left floating (not connected as can be seen in attached diagram) and i am loosing the torque of the Motor i do not know why..Can i connect the ENABLE from your controller to the DISABLED at G203V?? I think ENABLE gives +5V...
Regards

[jhovel]

I too etched a PCB using kwacker's posted layout. It too didn';t come out very well due to the far too close tracks and ground plane in between everything. I ended up using a very fine cutter in a Dremel tool to recut all the messed up and unreliable gaps.
I'd love for someone to re-do the layout with decent track width and gaps and ground planes only where they are needed/connected, please.
I'd have a go if I had the Eagle files or the skill.....
My circuit board looks incredibly messy.... I know you can't see it in it's enclosure, but it goes against my grain knowing what a shi**y job I did.

[lucas]

Yesterday I stumbled across this topic and it looked like something I might eventually build when I need it and find a rotary device.

So today I made my own PCB design for eventual future needs but mostly because people here need an easy DIY.
Signal traces are 30 mill and power 50 mill.

I made a few changes compared to the original:
- Screw connectors for everything (easier for the DIY guys) except LCD connector, this could be wrong because I didn't read the whole thread in detail and it might be that the used keypad is a standard one and thus needs the pin header.
- A Elco and cap are added on the PS input, this looks better to me.
- I also connected pin 11 of the PIC to +5VDC.

There might be mistakes with these changes but I did it in a hurry and didn't have time to check everything and read the whole thread in detail.
If changes are needed, please advice.

Below is the preliminary unverified layout in PDF format, silk screen overlay still needs some work.

Hope it's helpfull and comments are of course welcome.
Luc.

Edit: Found some errors, files are replaced with corrected but still preliminary ones.

[jhovel]

Thank you lucas, mercie beaucoup.
That looks a lot easier to etch with print-press-peel paper!
Could you please upload your modified circuit as well? I'm no electronics person and I'm not sure where you actually added the capacitors and why you connected pin 11, please?
Cheers,
Joe

[lucas]

Could you please upload your modified circuit as well? I'm no electronics person and I'm not sure where you actually added the capacitors and why you connected pin 11, please?
Cheers,
Joe

I didn't make a new schematic but used the original one from Steve and there pin 11 is connected to +5V but not on the PCB layout.
IMHO a 7805 needs cap's on the input as well, so I added C6 and C7 on the Vin to the 7805. It might work without but I think it's better to have them installed just in case.

Important: There were some errors in my original files below, known errors have been corrected and the files are replaced. This is still untested and thus preliminary.

@ Steve: I just jumped in and made this in a hurry without consulting you, hope it's ok and you don't have a problem with this?

Luc.

[Khalid]

My Problem is solved for G203V and Rotary indexer is working fine... Here are my calculations for your reference working on G203V:
G203V: 10Microstep
Steve Firmware 2.1 : 400 step
My Worm ratio: 40

The Steve Controller require: 600 steps to complete one 360 cycle of chuck

PROBLEM 2:
The Keypad i am using is very sensitive. The buttons actives, when i just feather-touch all the buttons with hand. Any thing to reduce the sensitivity of the keypad?

[jhovel]

Excellent Luc! Thank you for your effort and explanation.
The PCB needs to be about 6mm wider to fit my LCD board and the holes need to be adjusted a little vertically as well.
My keypad looks much like Khalid's except its the recommended 4x4 button matrix. As you can see, the ribbon cable coming from it has a smaller pitch than the screw connections you provided for. Fitting a header strip to the ribbon and a header socket strip to the PCB seems like neater way to execute the desgn.
You might modify the copper.pdf file to refect this for others. I will certainly ammend my version.
Cheers,
Joe

[Khalid]

hi Joe,
Sorry my Keypad is also 4x4 my unit is here in the attached picture

[jhovel]

Khalid, this is exactly what mine will look like - except in a black anodised aluminium box I have. Did you house the powersupply inside your case or did you keep it seperately? I intend to use a small (laptop type) switchmode supply and put it inside the case. I intend to fit the same 4-pole microphone socket you have, along with an IEC main power socket. That way I can use it with other equipment if I ever want to and just plug the relevant stepper motor into the box.
PS: You keep your workshop very clean and tidy - impressive!

[redpiperbob]

Hi Luc
I hope you dont mind me posting this but I think there is an error in the copper pdf. in the bottom left of the diagram you have two resistors that I think are R7 and R8 the left one (R7) should I think have one end connected to the Sense pin and the 5 volt rail and not the ground rail. I am not sure if I am right or not.
all the best

Bob

Sorry Luc
should have read your lasest post first I have now downloaded the revised copper. Thanks for your time. and trouble
Bob