584,808 active members*
5,451 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
Page 10 of 41 8910111220
Results 181 to 200 of 815
  1. #181
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    521
    Well, I think Steve suggested the cheap driver board. They weren't that much, but its sounding like they're not going to perform well. I have a G201 Gecko drive, could use. I found a 24VDC 2A power supply, will this combo work well with the M092 Nema 34 Slo-Syn Stepper?

    What other stepper drives are good options out there, reasonably priced with PWM for this particular application?

    Thanks,
    Marty

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    411
    Marty,

    You've got a 2A power supply and a 4A/phase stepper... at best your stepper is going to be severely curtailed on its torque to about 100ozin because you'll be limited to 1.5A/phase, but that might be OK for your application.

    Well I'll admit that board was cheap at $12 or so, but then you get what you pay for! I can't recommend a single axis stepper ready made but there are a couple on ebay using the Toshiba chip sets. We have a couple of good suppliers in the UK of locally manufactured boards but I don't know if thats viable for you.
    If you're in Europe why not come and visit the UK CNC Community at http://www.mycncuk.com

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    521
    My buddy said these are better suited:
    http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8921
    I tend to agree, comments?

    This one has a max output of 3.0A, I would imagine the best case scenario would be to have a stepper driver capable of 4.0A and have a 24 VDC 4.0A power supply?
    I plan on just using it to position, but I could see turning the chuck or rotab against the cutter occasionally. Will I not have enough torque to do that?

    Kwackers, what were the specs on your stepper, driver and power supply?

    Thanks everyone, the knowledge is priceless....
    Marty

  4. #184
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty_Escarcega View Post
    My buddy said these are better suited:
    http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8921
    I tend to agree, comments?

    This one has a max output of 3.0A, I would imagine the best case scenario would be to have a stepper driver capable of 4.0A and have a 24 VDC 4.0A power supply?
    I plan on just using it to position, but I could see turning the chuck or rotab against the cutter occasionally. Will I not have enough torque to do that?

    Kwackers, what were the specs on your stepper, driver and power supply?

    Thanks everyone, the knowledge is priceless....
    Marty
    I use an old version of one of these:
    http://www.routoutcnc.com/singlesmall.html
    My motors are rated 2.5A - although I think they're under-driven slightly. The controller is set to half step.

    You don't need anything too clever - certainly the one in your link is more than up to the job (unless you're trying to spin a giant table).
    Mine easily turns the head on my lathe - even with the lathe motor still engaged, I doubt there's much need to run yours at the full 4A of your motor.

  5. #185
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by kwackers View Post
    I use an old version of one of these:
    http://www.routoutcnc.com/singlesmall.html
    My motors are rated 2.5A - although I think they're under-driven slightly. The controller is set to half step.

    You don't need anything too clever - certainly the one in your link is more than up to the job (unless you're trying to spin a giant table).
    Mine easily turns the head on my lathe - even with the lathe motor still engaged, I doubt there's much need to run yours at the full 4A of your motor.
    Thanks, my rotab is a 6" with a 5" chuck, and my dividing head is a typical 6" dividing head. I have two steppers with identical specs so my plan was to mount the steppers to the rotab and the dividing head and just use a cable to connect between them and the control.


    What was the specs on your stepper and your AC adapter?
    Marty

  6. #186
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty_Escarcega View Post
    Thanks, my rotab is a 6" with a 5" chuck, and my dividing head is a typical 6" dividing head. I have two steppers with identical specs so my plan was to mount the steppers to the rotab and the dividing head and just use a cable to connect between them and the control.


    What was the specs on your stepper and your AC adapter?
    Marty
    The stepper is just an old one I found at a junk shop - all I can tell you is it's rated 2.5A...
    The AC adaptor is just an old laptop supply - I think it's rated 24v, but tbh it could be rated as low as 18.

    The whole project was originally knocked up over a weekend and intended as something fairly cheap and cheerful. I wouldn't be too precious - you can get away with a lot (within reason).

  7. #187
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    411
    Quote Originally Posted by Marty_Escarcega View Post
    My buddy said these are better suited:
    http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/8921
    I tend to agree, comments?

    This one has a max output of 3.0A, I would imagine the best case scenario would be to have a stepper driver capable of 4.0A and have a 24 VDC 4.0A power supply?
    I plan on just using it to position, but I could see turning the chuck or rotab against the cutter occasionally. Will I not have enough torque to do that?

    Kwackers, what were the specs on your stepper, driver and power supply?

    Thanks everyone, the knowledge is priceless....
    Marty
    That definitely a better driver, but the advantage of the small single board ones is the ability to put it all in the same box. This one on eBay looks good too
    If you're in Europe why not come and visit the UK CNC Community at http://www.mycncuk.com

  8. #188
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by kwackers View Post
    The 82 ohm resistor is shown on the overlay - it's mentioned by value rather than by R number since you can change it to adjust the brightness of the display (less is brighter).

    When I ordered the parts for my board, I missed the 82 ohm resistor.

    I can not find a 82 ohm locally so I was hoping you might give me a general range to source. I have found a 68 ohm locally, how far off might that value be?

    Thanks

    Roy
    Roy - Pahrump, NV USA

  9. #189
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by justforfun View Post
    When I ordered the parts for my board, I missed the 82 ohm resistor.

    I can not find a 82 ohm locally so I was hoping you might give me a general range to source. I have found a 68 ohm locally, how far off might that value be?

    Thanks

    Roy
    Hi Roy,
    68 ohms simply means the backlight will be a bit brighter.

    You can always stick two resistors in series - e.g two 47 ohm will give 94.

    Or two in parallel - eg, two 180 ohm will give 90.

    If you run series or parallel you will share the power between them so can easily get away with 1/4w.

    Running the backlight brighter simply reduces the lifetime of the backlight leds - but unless you never turn it off that's unlikely to be a problem (and even then...)

    I would say anywhere between 150 ohms and (say your) 68 ohms would be fine - if it's too bright or too dim you can always change it...

  10. #190
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    3
    hi kwackers;
    rotary table indexer is very good job. i want to make this project also. i have some problems. can i add external more powerful stepper driver? and can i add breaking output signal.

  11. #191
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by mckayrak View Post
    hi kwackers;
    rotary table indexer is very good job. i want to make this project also. i have some problems. can i add external more powerful stepper driver? and can i add breaking output signal.
    Hi, there's no driver in the circuit - it simply provides step and direction pulses, you can connect these to as powerful a driver as you like.

    I'm not sure what you mean by breaking output signal?

  12. #192
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    3
    chuck moves while cutting so i must break chuck not to move.
    and i want to change the menu language. is it possible?

  13. #193
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by mckayrak View Post
    chuck moves while cutting so i must break chuck not to move.
    and i want to change the menu language. is it possible?
    I assume you mean you want to disable the movement? If so then you can fit a switch to the two limit switches - if both are activated together the table is 'locked'.
    You may wish to fit a mechanical lock to your table as well.

    Regarding languages, sorry - there is no provision for that.
    It wouldn't be that difficult to add other languages but the text would have to fit into the space allocated for the English version (which definitely rules out German...;-)

  14. #194
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    3
    thanks for your help.

  15. #195
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    18

    keypad wiring

    Hello everyone and thanks for all the help.

    Looking at the information I have, I am uncertain as to the wiring of the keypad. The keypad I have has 8 connections and the and the board has 8. What gets connected to what? Looking at the Circuit Diagram v2.0.jpg and the PCB Overlay 2.0.bmp one shows the connections as RD0-RD7 and the other shows R1-R4 and C1-C4. I have no idea what that translates to the real world.

    I tested the keypad and I find that two connections = one key press. But have no idea what to connect to what. I know this doesn't sound very clear, but that where my mind is at, lost.

    Roy
    Roy - Pahrump, NV USA

  16. #196
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    184
    Hi Roy,

    Imagine 4 wires (column are running side by side downwards) and 4 wires (rows) are running across them. There would be 16 positions where these wires cross over - these 16 positions represent the keys - if you were to press them together you'd essentially have the keypad.

    This is how the keypad looks - RD4-RD7 run down and RD0-RD3 run across:

    Code:
        RD4 RD5 RD6 RD7
    RD3 [1] [2] [3] [Speed]
    RD2 [4] [5] [6] [S]
    RD1 [7] [8] [9] [C]
    RD0 [<] [0] [>] [G]
    So for example if you press [9] then you'll connect RD6 and RD1, [<] would connect RD4 and RD0.

    So all you need to do is identify which lines on your keypad represent which RD line on the board and wire it accordingly.
    Worse case is if you get it wrong - the keys will be in the wrong place!

  17. #197
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by justforfun View Post
    I used a #64 drill, I think that = .036" or .9144mm. I have yet to place all the parts, so it was just a guess. Once I have parts on the board I'll confirm.
    Just an update to confirm that the drill size I used worked fine for all the components I mounted. Those include connector blocks for all off board connections.

    Many holes could have been smaller, some not.
    Roy - Pahrump, NV USA

  18. #198
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    18

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by kwackers View Post

    Code:
        RD4 RD5 RD6 RD7
    RD3 [1] [2] [3] [Speed]
    RD2 [4] [5] [6] [S]
    RD1 [7] [8] [9] [C]
    RD0 [<] [0] [>] [G]
    Thanks, even I can understand that.
    Roy - Pahrump, NV USA

  19. #199
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    521

    PC Boards

    I got a request to make a PC board for this project. My buddy has the equipment to photo etch the boards, $20 plus $1 US Mail First Class postage you drill the board. $30 plus $1 US Mail First Class postage we'll hand drill the board for you. (done on a dremel drill press) Sorry, this is limited to folks in the US. If you are interested PM me. Once I know how many are seriously interested, we'll make a run of the boards. When they are done I will PM you. I have a paypal account and can be paid that way.

  20. #200
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    4

    Rotary table indexer

    Hi Kwackers,
    Thanks to share its ideas.
    I have a Vertex of ratio 90:1, but it is possible also to be used with small rotary tables of ratio 36:1. I want to buy one.
    Thanks and greetings.
    Victor

Page 10 of 41 8910111220

Similar Threads

  1. Stand alone rotary table indexer.
    By kwackers in forum PIC Programing / Design
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 01-29-2023, 03:01 PM
  2. CNC Rotary Indexer/Table
    By desman in forum Commercial CNC Wood Routers
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-11-2015, 03:32 PM
  3. 4th Axis CNC Rotary Indexer Table Plans
    By Modular CNC in forum News Announcements
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-11-2011, 07:55 PM
  4. Manual indexer-rotary table vertical
    By silverfoxx03 in forum Want To Buy...Need help!
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-18-2011, 09:04 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •