[Metalfab_101]

Damo,

I have a hypertherm powermax 1000 with the machine torch for the cutting table. I can cut anywhere on the sheet of steel up to 10mm. Anything else I have to do an edge start or drill a hole. If I do an edge start hypertherm have a reccomended cut capacity of 19mm, with a maximum of 25mm.

I think that if I end up cutting much steel over 1/2" or 12.5mm I will rig up an oxy. This has a straight cut regardless of the thickness of the steel being cut.

Cheers

Peter

I bet the Hypertherm cost you a packet!

Sorry if this is a bit OT but I have been trying to track down a machine torch for my oxy/acet setup. Any idea where I can get one from without having to sell one of my kidneys???

Damo.

[Brian Kidd]

I bet the Hypertherm cost you a packet!

Sorry if this is a bit OT but I have been trying to track down a machine torch for my oxy/acet setup. Any idea where I can get one from without having to sell one of my kidneys???

Damo.

Tell me about it. I was looking into getting a machine torch for my brothers ESAB Plasma thinking it would be $300-$400 but they want $1000+ for an ESAB and about $800.00 for a Thermal Dynamics one that would fit the ESAB . Hell he only paid about $2000 for the whole machine. Guess I am going to just design the CNC Table to hold the regurlar hand torch.

B.Kidd

[whateg01]

This, too, may be a bit off topic. Maybe a new thread is in order, but why are machine torches so expensive?

From what I know, which isn't much, the fundamental difference is the way the gas is controlled. I believe the straight tip is fairly minor, and maybe somebody makes a straight tip that will attach to a hand-held. On that note, does anybody know of a manufacturer why makes a straight tip for a hand-held Victor type torch?

Dave

[DanOSB]

get 180 degree head torch on ebay.. i got mine for 100 or less

and then what im going to do is simlar to http://www.cnconabudget.com/torch.html

but not using regular hand torch since it would be bulky.. rather it straight up

there is picture of that torch but thats bad one but im sure u get the idea

[Apples]

Hi all,

I have to say, thanks for all the help so far.

I am in need of some help to finish of the machine. All the details can be found here.

http://plasmatable.bravehost.com/

Cheers

Peter
(Australia)

[whateg01]

Peter,

Thanks for all the photos! I enjoy watching these projects progress. (It's good to know that somebody is making progress.)

Forgive my ignorance, but I was wondering why the slats in the table top are woven through the supports instead of being straight?

Dave

[DSL PWR]

If the slats are straight and you cut a straight line directly over one, you weld your work to the slat.

[whateg01]

Thanks. I knew there was a reason.

Dave

[whateg01]

Hey, what if you needed to cut out an ocean scene with gentle waves that matched your slats? LOL :wave:

Dave

[Apples]

Well I have tried to upload 4 movies to my site. To better help explain the low speed noise. I have a fast one there at 2000ipm or 50,800mm/min, making a circle.

Unfortunatly I have to pay money to upload movie files to this site. So If anyone was interested in the videos see what you want and I can email them to you.

Cheers

Peter

P.s. Bought some bearings today to make belt reduction setup!

Have top order timing belts and pullys now.

Cheers

Peter
(Australia)

[whateg01]

Peter, I would definitely be interested in videos you have. It helps to give me ideas for my design. Looking back through some of your previous posts, it looks like you went through several revisions on your gantry. Interesting to watch the progress.

Dave
[email protected]

[Apples]

Well well well,

I made a timing belt reduction. I used 28 tooth and a 72 tooth pulleys which gave me about 2:57 to 1 reduction.

This made a slight difference to the vibrations/resonance that I was getting.


Found out that with the Gecko's there is a 'low speed trimpot screw'. Basically all you do is run the machine then turn the screw untill the thing goes quiet.
The screw is located at the back of the gecko, opposite where all the wires hook up.



I have also done my fist cut/s with the setup.

I have only just been using the remote starting pendant that you turn on with the flick of a switch.

Cuts are very slaggy underneath. I just wanted to see if anything would happen with the plasma setup.

Now I have to work out how to hook up the remote start to the breakout boad and turn it on via the computer.

Apples

Peter
Australia

[Weldtutor]

Peter
Congratulations!!!
It must feel great to make those first cuts after several months of work.
When you get to faster travel speeds the slag may be reduced.
WT

[DSL PWR]

Make sure the air pressure is set on the high side, crank up the current, make sure the torch is square, and go faster. If your torch is on the small side for the material: get a bigger torch, cut thinner material, or live with the slag.

[Apples]

Done some more testing in the shed.

I was cutting those parts at 40 amps. So I wound it up the the maximum of 60amps and upped the feed speed. These new cuts came out pretty good.

When it turns a corner the corner is not very sharp, like the torch needs to stop ther for say 1/4 of a second.

Is this possible to program into Mach3?

Peter

[ty1295]

G4 is a dwell command. You can spec how ever long you want it to pause.

You will need to research what letter Mach needs with the G4, some machines use F, etc. I forget what Mach uses.

[Apples]

Well it has been a while since I last posted.

Here is an update.

I need to find a way of supporting the wires that go to the motors. I think that I could just hang them from the roof and let them dangle down. I might have to make somthing up though.

Any ideas?

Cheers

Peter

[Weldtutor]

Peter
To support your cables one method would be a post about 4 ft up from a corner of the table (or centre of one side) with an arm from top of post extending over the middle of the table.
Wires could hang from the end of the arm.
Nice photo of the bracket in the hand.

[Apples]

Weldtutor,

I have thought about ways of doing it, and that way probably seems the best way to do it. Like when you go to "Carlovers" and was your car by hand. The hoses come down from the roof via an arm. The arm can spin 360.

So I might have to do this, and put a bearing at the piviot point so that the arm can swing left and right a little.

Peter
Australia

[Apples]

This is 1.5mm gal, steel.

Peter
Australia