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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Haas Machines > Haas Mills > Remove drive belt on 96 VF-1 w/ TSC/ reset spindle orient
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    303

    Remove drive belt on 96 VF-1 w/ TSC/ reset spindle orient

    We have some odd noise uptop and want to remove the belt to isolate the noise. Talked with Haas but not much help with the TSC stuff. In order to slide the motor/trans assy forward enough to get the belt off, we need to remove that tool clamping block thing in front of the trans. We have TSC and curious what we need to do here??The trans is loose but have not tried to remove the tool clamping block.


    Obviously, once the belt is off, we need to reset the spindle orient for the TC. How is that done? Our 96 has the old shot pin thing so probably some manual setup here. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    31
    Parameter 257 is your spindle oretation offset. After you put it back togother you should be able to oreintate the spindle and adjust the parameter as needed to line up with the tool changer. I also had a wierd noise it was my spindle drive on a VF-6. Can you turn the spindle freely when the machine is on and the spindle is at a stand still?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    303
    The problem is that shot pin that locks the motor in place once orientated. I think it has to be mechanically lined up or something. Just thinking out loud here. That could be a lot of fun!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Assuming you have not removed the pulleys, orient the spindle. Then put the belt back on with the spindle drive lugs in the proper position to load a tool. One tooth on the gearbelt is quite a bit of error, so you should be able to guess correctly. At least, that is what I did with mine, because it didn't look too handy to me to get down in there, loosen off the orient ring, then do the orient, and rotate the spindle into position by hand, retighten the orientation ring, which would be what you'd have to do if the lugs were slightly out of position.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    17
    before we get crazy, what is the noise? To test the spindle for bad bearings run it for 25-30 minutes at max RPM. Check the inside of the spindle tapper ever 5-10 min. the spindle should never run above 125 degrees. If it does it is possible the spindle is either getting too much or to little oil. If you think the problem is the gearbox, you should hear a differance in noise between gears.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    303
    Honestly, I think it will blow up at 25-30min of run time. It actually sounds pretty smooth once up to speed, it is the accel and decel that sound bad. We have not even cut anything with it as it is obvious something is wrong. We have a metallic noise that is more obvious under decel. YOu get that ticking noise from the spindle drive shutting it down but there is another obvious noise. We just want to disengage the spindle belt to see if we can source it in the gearbox or motor and go form there. I honestly hope is is something dumb like belt tension but I kinda know better.

    What really worries me is this vibration the head has that is just more than normal. Makes me wonder what is going on or if the trans has kicked a tooth or something and causing an out of balance condition. I hear the trans is simple but with no parts available, and am not excited about working on it. Hell, I would be happy with the motor needing bearings as that is a very simple fix but we shall see.

    I am trying to make time to get that belt off but that tool clamp block has me wondering how tough this will be. Haas sent some tech pages on it but they are next to worthless in the explanation. NO pics, and minimal verbage.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    I'm not familiar with how the connection is made to TSC, but for the rest of the tool change piston assembly, I just unbolted with and let it hang off to the side with the hoses still attached, IIRC.

    There is not a lot of free space to get the belt out of the head completely if you leave all the hoses and stuff attached. I unbolted the 4 bolts (maybe it was more) that bolt the motor/transmission down to the head casting, and slid the motor as much as possible towards the front, then worked the belt off the back of the transmission pulley, and then pushed the tranny back, and worked the belt up in front of the transmission pulley so it wouldn't catch on anything.

    Watch that the motor/transmission unit wants to tip over with minimal effort after you take the main bolts out, best take extreme care to prevent that.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

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