[maxboostbusa]

Ok I know I seen a post with two different people using treadmill motors and speed controls from Surplus Center. I dont remember if it was on here or the Y*#@@ groups site or where. I looked for 3 hrs last night and couldnt find the one I saw. Anybody have any ideas or did I just miss it? Just wanting to check and see how it worked out and which amp motor and controller they used.
Thanks in advance
Rick

[LeeWay]

I have a thread here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32609

I didn't get the motor from Surplus center, but I did buy both of the open drives they sell. I first bought the smaller one.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric

If you decide you want this one, I will sell it to you half price. I only used it a couple hours.
However the one that I am using and works much much better is this one.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric

It is a very nice drive with plenty of pots for adjustment. I did buy the heat sink as well. I can't bog the motor yet.

This is the motor I bought.


http://cgi.ebay.com/Diamond-Back-Tre...QQcmdZViewItem

I am really pleased with this setup. I have a motor speed controller that I need to install so it can be run by Mach 3. I got it from CNC4PC.
Don't know how well it will work yet, but should do well.

[maxboostbusa]

Cool, I may be interested in the speed controller. Do you use Paypal? I have the C6 speed control board from CNC4PC just waiting to get a few things figured out before I hook it up.
Rick

[LeeWay]

I use Paypal. Just drop me a PM. This controller may work better with a different smaller motor.
It would stall out this larger motor with the pot turned up full and the Speed knob on full as well. I could take light cuts. A little heavier though than the original X2 motor. Just nowhere near what I was hoping for.

The motor I used is a nicely made motor. It has a nice fan mounted on top or the back actually. I had to trim the 5/8" shaft length to get it to fit the LMS/Steele belt drive kit. I also had to turn the hole a little larger in the smaller pulley from that kit. I had to shave a little aluminum off on each side of the casting where the mounting holes go. I had to finish tapping the holes on the front of the motor all the way through so I could mount this motor upright on the LMS/Steele plate. They were M6 size.
Thanks.
Lee

[Need TECH Help!]

Hello,
I just got a treadmill that i plan to use the motor and controls for a spindle motor on my mill.The motor is labeled as CW rotation.Can this motor be reversed?And if not, could i use the treadmill motor controller to run a Surplus treadmill motor that says reversible?And just use a manual switch to turn on CW , CCW and OFF?
Thanks
Troy

[Oldboy]

Hello,
I just got a treadmill that i plan to use the motor and controls for a spindle motor on my mill.The motor is labeled as CW rotation.Can this motor be reversed?And if not, could i use the treadmill motor controller to run a Surplus treadmill motor that says reversible?And just use a manual switch to turn on CW , CCW and OFF?
Thanks
Troy

You have DC going to motor? Its just a matter of switching positive & neg. The large DC voltage can kill you. Understand?
From what i understand about computer controled speed controlers are they hook up at the POT location on the treadmill motor controler. So if the voltage across the POT is 0-10vdc on that treadmill controler you have? You could use one of the computer speed controler boards to hook up to it.
And if you use relays to switch motor directions. Some control boards can turn on or off the relays in MACH 3. So Mach 3 could control motor direction & speed. Im by no means an expert at this,im learning my self.
So if you fry something don't blame me.

[jduke]

I am going to be trying a treadmill motor with its original controller for VS on a 9x20 lathe that I just picked up, and will probably try the switch between the controller, and the motor for direction.

What kinds of pulleys or gears are people using for these conversions?

Duke

[Al_The_Man]

That one shown is almost identical to the KB or Baldor which you can get new for approximately the same price.
These controllers usually recommend some kind of protection that prevents reversal when the motor is under power.
Al.

[scuba840]

Be carefully when running treadmill motors opposite of their "normal" rotation. The geometry of the brusses could be set such that they are only meant to run one direction. Running the motor in the opposite direction might eat the brushes.

[jduke]

I only paid $20 for the treadmill that my motor and controller came off of, so I figured the easy way to see if it would reverse, was to try reversing the wires.

I reversed the wires today, and ran it through its speeds and checked it with my tachometer. It ran both directions without any problem, and all the way from 200 RPM all the way up to about 3800 RPM. It didn;t get up to the 4800 RPM that the motor nameplate says it will do, so I suspect the controller doesn't put out enough voltage to get the most out of the motor.

I don't think I will modify anything on my 9x20 to put it on there, but I think I will try it sometime in the next few weeks, and leave the factory belts to adjust speed ranges.

Maybe, I will just put the belts on the middle range, and then use the rheostat to dial up and down as needed.

Duke

[LeeWay]

Some of these DC motors aren't reversible for the reason stated, but that isn't always the case. If the brushes go straight in on the ends of the motor, then it should run fine either direction.

[TroyO]

The one I'm putting in appears to be directional only because the flywheel/pulley was connected via left hand threads. (It would spin off if run backwards)

So, I just filed a flat on to the shaft. There was a set screw in the pulley I used allready. (Salvaged from an old Harbor Freight benchtop drill press.... had to bore out slightly to fit the motor shaft.)

It seems to run forward and reverse just fine, no major difference in performance or sound so I doubt the timing is set for any particular direction.

The manual mentions catastrophic failure of the controller if the armature is connected/disconnected while AC power is applied so I wanted a dummy proof method.

I used two switches to take care of the reversing while under power issue... the reversing switch has a flip up cover over it. (Fighter jet wanna-be style.) and I tweaked it a little so that the switch cover hits the second switch mounted above it and turns off the AC when the cover is up. So, when you flip up the cover to change directions it auto-magically flips off the AC to the controller at the same time.

I had to shorten the lever on the reversing switch because the flip up cover is designed to turn the switch off when you drop the cover back down. (Slightly irritating... I just assumed those covers just covered the switch... so you could leave it on or off as you desired and it was protected in that position. Apparently they don't work that way.)

Anyway... I am still in progress on mine, but I have mocked up the switch-interlock in some scrap and it appears like it will work fine.

[Twmaster]

Interesting...

TroyO.... Do you know what brand and model of controller board you have?

The controller on my POS H-F 7x10 croaked over the weekend (Just when I needed to make parts, of course! )

So I bought a treadmill controller off feebay for $30... MC-60. Connections look stupid simple.

Anyhow, just curious what you're using.

Thanks!

[TroyO]

I got a KB Electronics KBIC125 (At least that I'm actually using)

115V, 1.5 HP 90V DC Motor controller.

There's a bunch on Ebay, $75.53 shipped. he throws in a HP resistor too (It sets the HP rating of the controller) if you email him with which one you need. (Hey, it's like $8 so it helps, LOL.)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300302762409

I just rivetted a bunch of U channel aluminium to the bottom and bolted on a random heatsink that fit to it, I didn't get/use the official heatsink for it that your supposed to have for full power. I did mount it in a box with a fan on it, though so I'm pretty sure it's over-cooled if anything.




I also, in error (Kind of) got a KBMM-225 from Ebay, which runs on 220V. That wouldn't be a problem as I have 220V in my garage but the older model I got doesn't have 90V output for the motor. Well, at least... it kind of doesn't. (Which is why it was "kind of" in error... LOL.) The new "SMT" version of it has a 90V/180V jumper and would have worked easily.

I've learned since that the trim pot on that controller for max speed adjusts the voltage.... from 50% to 110%. The 220V controller is set up for a 180V DC motor. Hmmmm..... so if you adjust to %50 of the 180V output..... yep, you get a controller that will work just fine on a 90V motor. I didn't know that until I ran in to an unrelated post from Hoss (Thanks Hoss!) that pointed out this website....

http://bedair.org/Tmotor/Tmotor2.html
(Look at the bottom of the page)

I had seen that page before while looking at different controllers but didn't really understand it. After re-reading it, with what I had learned in the meantime it made sense. In any case, it was only $40 so I'll throw it in my bag of "Stuff that may be usefull someday" and if I ever happen upon another DC motor my drill press will get an upgrade.

[skyguynca]

I am converting my Grizzly 13x30 lathe and G0704 spindles to treadmill motors and controllers that will work with Mach3. I fianlly got it all working and here is the scoop.

Spindle components:

p/n 314571 treadmill motor 2.8 hp 130vdc intermittent 2.6 hp 110vdc constant duty 1940 watts 18 amps.
Amt102-v encoder
DG4s Driver

My problem getting this all to work was very simple, in the programming PID with the servo configuration software there is a setting they say never to touch unless you have no choice. Well I am sure with the factory servo motors with high mass and inertia that is probably true. With the treadmill motor it is not.

Anyway when first hooked up and turned on it growled loudly. I adjusted AP to 1 its lowest setting to make the system stable, no change.
I then AD lower, and lower till I got around 100 and the growling lessened a lot. Lower setting did not help so left it at 100
Lowered the AI, as it got lower and lower the growling turned into movement, When I got round 10 it was swinging 180, I should say oscillating back and forth 180 degrees per step.

I tried everything, no effect. I asked the manufacture, Arturo at CNC4PC where I bought the electronics and he had never seen it before. I search every forum to no avail.

Then I decided to change out all the components to see if it made a difference, no it did not.

Finally I decided to change one setting that the instructions say you should leave at max if at all possible. Well the setting was the Li setting and it was 65535. I dropped it 100 at a time, no effect. So then I set it down to 10….surprise the servo finally spun, huge error in position but it spun.

I adjusted the LI up and up while the errors decreased, then used the tuning instructions that came with the DG4S and 10 minutes later I had a spindle on my lathe that worked perfectly with a very small error showing up due to the mass of the drive system and now I will also move those settings to my Mill that is using the same motor, encoder and driver.

My hat is off to Hoss, Arturo @ CNC4PC.com, Al the man (helped with powersupply design) and John_100 (also powersupply design)
IT ALL WORKS GREAT !!!!!

[Twmaster]

Pics?