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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking > MetalWork Discussion > Making Large "Turner's Cubes" on an Engine Lathe
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  1. #41
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    The cubes are multiplying!

    Pity about the jeweled bearings. Personally, if I were going to use ball bearings with an embedded shaft, I'd be tempted to embed just one shaft at the bottom. Without an arm over top you'd be able to see the cube a lot more nicely.

    Cheers!

    BW

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3757

    Talking Corner drilling jig.

    Take a box big enough to put the cube in.
    Mount on the mill.
    Center drill a ding mark in the bottom.
    Devise a top piece to support the top corner of the cube, point to point.
    Put the cube in the box supported by it's points.
    Fill with water.
    Freeze.
    Drill hole(s) before cube falls over.
    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    440
    Quote Originally Posted by widgitmaster View Post
    Two Turner's Cubes made from 303-SS

    Widgit
    This is really nice work. Kudos on the effort and skill to turn out such an interesting project. Looking forward to seeing the acrylic cubes.
    Suppose you were an idiot and suppose you were a member of Congress. But I repeat myself.
    Mark Twain

  4. #44
    The Cast Acrylic bar arrived today, it is 8" dia x 7.9 long.
    With a little luck I should be able to make 4 cubes out of it!

    Widgit
    www.widgitmaster.com
    It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    Quote Originally Posted by widgitmaster View Post
    The Cast Acrylic bar arrived today, it is 8" dia x 7.9 long.
    With a little luck I should be able to make 4 cubes out of it!

    Widgit
    Luck has notghing to do with it, skill is what matters.

    Actually you should have no problem; two 3" squares fit within an eight diameter with lots of room to spare.

    How much acrylic machining have you done?

    Are you cutting with a vertical bandsaw?
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  6. #46
    Now I know my shop is small!

    I have a piece of plastic too big to fit in either of my band saws!
    So I made a phone call, and made arrangements to have a Friend cut it in his machine shop! (For a ½ dozen Egg McMuffins)

    So tomorrow morning I's be in a real machine shop again!

    Widgit
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_2878.JPG   100_2879.JPG   100_2880.JPG   100_2881.JPG  


  7. #47
    Well, I finally got the large bar cut to manageable pieces, so that I could fit them in my saws and cut out what I needed to make 4 pieces.

    Then I sharpened up a pair of cobalt tool bits for my Fly cutter, one to remove the rough saw cut surfaces, and one to finish the cubes a smooth as possible! No matter how well you clean a band saw, and even if you use a new blade, there is always the possibility of a metal particle getting embedded into the plastic!

    Now that all four cubes are squared up and cut to size, it's time to clean up the fixture I made for the 303-Stainless cubes! The nest that I milled into the lathe fixture plate had a few small pieces of stainless pressed into it, and so did the clamps! After about 30-minutes, I managed to file, scrape, stone, and polish everything smooth so it would not damage the soft plastic cubes!

    Widgit
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_2917.JPG   100_2918.JPG   100_2920.JPG   100_2921.JPG  

    100_2922.jpg   100_2923.jpg   100_2924.JPG  

  8. #48
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Mr Widgit, looking good!

    I always learn a lot watching any project you do. One of the things I think many of us admire is the wonderful surface finishes you achieve. I'm sure the are many factors that contribute, but you've mentioned using a diamond wheel to get just the right edge and shape on you tools. Elsewhere, I've heard others talk of using a pocket diamond hone (EZE-LAP) to get that final "just right" edge on a lathe tool.

    Can you shed any light for us peons on how to do this? Even a close up piccy of your boring bar's tuned up shape and a couple sentences would be very welcome.

    Meanwhile, we await these new acrylic Objects of Desire.

    Thanks,

    BW

  9. #49
    Thanks Bob,
    Using a radius on the tool helps, and using a tool that covers the entire part looks even better!

    Look here:
    http://www.mfg.mtu.edu/cyberman/qual...rminology.html

  10. #50
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Quote Originally Posted by widgitmaster View Post
    Thanks Bob,
    Using a radius on the tool helps, and using a tool that covers the entire part looks even better!

    Look here:
    http://www.mfg.mtu.edu/cyberman/qual...rminology.html
    Thanks Widgit!

    I had already taken away the "tool that covers the entire part" lesson. My takeaway has been to use my multi-insert facemill to rough, and then get out a flycutter that can do the finish in one pass. I am attempting to approve my skills at grinding HSS tooling to put into the flycutter. I will return to watching the regularly scheduled programming here without further interruptions!

    Best,

    BW

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    122
    I like the bearing idea for your display.
    Notch the 2 - 1/4" shaft to fit the corners
    Maybe you could spring load the top shaft so you can pull it up to remove the cube

    Skip20

  12. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by skip20 View Post
    I like the bearing idea for your display.
    Notch the 2 - 1/4" shaft to fit the corners
    Maybe you could spring load the top shaft so you can pull it up to remove the cube

    Skip20

    The more I look at my stainless steel cube, the less I like the idea of drilling holes in the points for pins and bearings!

    What I need is have someone with access to an EDM machine burn the three 90° flats into the end of a 3/8" dia pin. Then I could put the pin in bearings, and place the cube in the detentes without damaging the cube's points!
    I suppose I could machine those flats, but it's easier to EDM!

    Any volunteers?

    Widgit

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3757

    Lightbulb Make em your self.

    1). Grind the 90 degree flats on the end of a piece of tool steel (broken tap)
    2). Force into the end of a piece of mild steel in the vice, with an alignment jig.
    3). Finish turn OD on mild steel pin.
    4). Flame harden the mild steel part (if you think it needs it)

    There: Instant diamond socket.

    Neil

  14. #54
    Well, I finished up another two Acrylic cubes this morning! The first one was not so nice, as there was chipping on the inside edges where the intermittent cut is. My friend looked at it and said "This one's MINE!!" so off it went
    I plan on doing the last one slightly differently, as cutting them dry makes the plastic come out Smokey even though it has a really smooth finish! I'm going to try the thick dish soap on all surfaces and only remove .005" per surface. With a little patience, I should be able to get a nice transparent surface! If it works, I'll re do all the others too!

    Widgit
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_2925.JPG   100_2926.JPG   100_2927.jpg   100_2928.jpg  

    100_2929.JPG  

  15. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    1753
    one of these days - I will finish one of these... Maybe in aluminum

    http://www.electronicsam.com/images/woodcube.jpg
    http://www.electronicsam.com/images/...axisubuntu.png

  16. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by samco View Post
    one of these days - I will finish one of these... Maybe in aluminum

    http://www.electronicsam.com/images/woodcube.jpg
    http://www.electronicsam.com/images/...axisubuntu.png
    I don't know how to say this gently, but that is one ugly part, sure your tool was sharp?

  17. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by neilw20 View Post
    1). Grind the 90 degree flats on the end of a piece of tool steel (broken tap)
    2). Force into the end of a piece of mild steel in the vice, with an alignment jig.
    3). Finish turn OD on mild steel pin.
    4). Flame harden the mild steel part (if you think it needs it)

    There: Instant diamond socket.

    Neil
    Now I like that, simple, direct, and functional!
    Widgit

  18. #58
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    1753
    Heh - It isn't pretty - but it gets the idea across. I think part if it is scale. The thing is only 1" square - and in black walnut. (done with 1/8 ball end mill)

    Quote Originally Posted by widgitmaster View Post
    I don't know how to say this gently, but that is one ugly part, sure your tool was sharp?

  19. #59
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Wow, they're gorgeous. Very nice work.

    I'd look for a lit base, one that has an up light. They're around for displaying various kinds of art. I think one of your cubes sitting on such a base would really glow!

    Cheers,

    BW

  20. #60
    Thanks Bob,
    The Tool-bit is in the mail! Let me know what you think of my free-hand grinding!
    Widgit

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