[EL34]

I am using my first machine, which was constructed of red oak, to cut my new machine, which is made from 6061 aluminum.

The new machine uses THK FGS 140 and THK FGS 200 actuator assemblies for the Z and Y axis.

The X axis is two THK HSR30H bearing blocks and 33" THK rails.
I am cutting the frame from 6061 aluminum. It will all be welded together once everything is braced properly and squared up.

I have made quite a bit of progress, but I am taking it slow and figuring out the next step after sitting down with a beer and eyeballing what I have so far. :cheers:

Here's my web site link about the new build, the old build and some other cnc stuff.

http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNC0.htm

[klick0]

Looks good man.

I too am doing a similiar thing, i'm using my first cnc machine (wood based) to help me build my new all aluminum machine. I'm using primarily 80/20 type extrusions though, so really I don't need the old machine to do that much for me. I don't plan to weld anything though eheh.

Keep it up, let us know how it progresses.

Ross

[EL34]

Hey Ross, got any pics?
Love to see other machines and ideas that people come up with.

I'll post back when I update my web site.
see ya
Doug

[EL34]

Cut some more pieces for the new machine.
Made some long motor mount screws, drilled lots of holes in the frame to mount the top.
Added L angled side upright supports.
Got more bracing and gussets to cut yet.

Made a little movie of the Oak machine cutting parts.
Got rid of the annoying rotozip motor whine and adding some music.
Lower quality windows media file
http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Movies/CNC1.wmv

[EL34]

Cut out four corner gussets and added x axis limit switches to frame.
Slowly taking shape.

Can't wait to fire this baby up.

http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNC0.htm

[EL34]

I countersunk limit switches into the FGS 200 and FGS140 Y and Z actuators.
I also drilled and tapped small 4/40 adjustment screws that contact the tip of the switch.

You can adjust the small screws in and out and dial in when the limit switch gets hit.
One of the photos below shows a screw in place and the other one, I forgot to load a screw into the hole beore shooting the pic.

[EL34]

Ooops, here's the pic from the post above

[wcarrothers1]

I'm not sure the repeatiability of those knob type switches are as good as a lever type micro switch. Be curious what your findings are. course now that I think about it you said limit and not home switch..

So the only down side I can see is the switch being crushed if over travel can't be stopped before the signal comes in from the press.. Something to think about. Perhaps putting some foam tape to get it pressed a little early but give it cushen not to crush it..

Another reason lever switches are used as the lever gives the spring between signal and actual stop.

b./

[EL34]

yeah, I have the lever/micro switches on my other machine and they work great.

The push switches are actually pretty good quality with silver contacts.
They plunge way further in than my machine can make them go so the machine should not be able to mash them.

If they don't work out, I'll go a different route.
You know how the best laid plans of men go?
It don't always work out how you plan.

I've had about 10 of those switches in a cabinet for maybe 10-15 years.
Decided it was time to use them.

[EL34]

Just finished making the tool holder for the new Rotozip RZ10.

Upgraded my X axis motor from a 260 oz motor to a 400 oz motor.

Gonna fire it up later and true up the new tool head.

Got rid of the mouse and the full sized keyboard and added a new mini touch pad keyboard.

Added a harbour freight motor speed control.

Got some more pics on these pages.
http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNC13.htm
http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNC12.htm

Keyboard info page.
http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNCPC2.htm

It's just about finished.
:banana:

[sonicwonder2000]

Awesome build and site!:rainfro:

I'm getting ready to throw together a metal Solsylva table myself. That's a nice aluminum bead you've got going there; mind me asking how you did that(mig or arc with those "aluminum weld sticks"?)

Also, in the site, you mention building everything on a "leveling table" - is that basically a wooden torsion box or is it some sort of machine leveled surface? What kind of accuracy are you getting with your oak router? it's impressive to see it cut aluminum - especially given you are using bushings for your rails!

[.xXACEXx.]

nice build log and you have a great looking oak machine also,this is a lil' off topic but on your wood machine you used bronze bushings and hardend steel rod .how well did that "slide" ? i at first wanted to use that idea ,did it flex alot? .nice machines you have there

[EL34]

Hey guys,
I took the frame to a welding shop down the road. I made sure they had some sort of very flat table I could set the frame on and align it all before they started welding. We used some precise steel blocks to raise, level and square the frame

Not sure what the guy used to weld it, but I made sure he understood that
(1) The frame had to be dead on square and
(2) that he needed to guard against warping the frame from too much heat.

He jumped around from corner to corner a weld at a time to keep the heat under control.

The Oak machine actually does pretty good with just bronze bushings, Thompson shafts and ACME screws/delrin nuts.

There is a bit of slop, but the 6061 frame did not require a huge amount of accuracy. All holes were oversized a bit so I could move things around and align them properly. If the bolt being used was .25 diameter, I would measure it and cut a .30 hole, or something like that.

The Rotozip tool holder was cut on the new machine with the old tool bolt to it. The new Rotozip is installed and running now.

The oak machine is going up for sale. I don't have space to keep it.

[EL34]

Calibrating all 3 axis. A shot of the X axis below

I also have a dial indicator that I use for very small measurements.

I'm running a .75" router bit to level the whole oak top right now after I calibrated all 3 axis.

[sonicwonder2000]

Can you elaborate as to how you are calibrating your axis. The dial indicator looks like it would allow you to check the backlash and accuracy of a given axis, but how do you go about calibrating your axis with this setup? Thanks for the info!

[EL34]

Hey Sonic,
In Mach3, there is a function for calibrating the motors.

Mach3 ask you how far you want to move.
Then Mach3 moves the machine.
Then Mach3 ask you how far it actually moved.
Mach3 will then adjust the motor setup.

If you said move X axis +2 inches and the machine actually moved +1.990 inches. You enter into mach3 that it only moved 1.990 inches and it will adjust the motor setup for the X axis.

You can also adjust the screw for abnormalities, but that's a whole different deal.

[lemonyx]

nice job. What kind of power supply are you using for the new build? Looks small and compact, not too spendy was it? I'd like to get one.

[EL34]

Howdy,
I have links to Probotix, pictures and info of how I set up th power supply and drivers here.

http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNC0.htm

Lots of good pics

[EL34]

I made a jig for the new CNC machine to make finger jointed boxes to hold CD's and DVD's

Just finished a couple boxes.
Have a bunch more pics on this page.
http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNCproject5.htm

[sonicwonder2000]

I made a jig for the new CNC machine to make finger jointed boxes to hold CD's and DVD's

Just finished a couple boxes.
Have a bunch more pics on this page.
http://www.el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/CNCproject5.htm

Beautiful boxes!

Excuse my ignorance, but why the jig? Would it not be possible to cut the rabbets with the piece of wood flat against the worksurface with a sacraficial scrap beneath it?