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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Plasma, EDM / Waterjet Machines > Waterjet General Topics > contemplating an unorthodox plasma table design
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    4

    contemplating an unorthodox plasma table design

    i dont have much room here in my garage, but i do have plenty of driveway space, so im trying to figure out how i can make myself a 4x4 table that can fit in MUCH less space inside the garage when not in use

    what im considering:
    2x4 table
    1x4 fold up extension on each side


    the x axis rails would then be mounted above the 2x4 table section, like a suspended rollercoaster.

    the y axis would be suspended between the x rails and the table, and i would make it swivel 90* by removing some bolts, that way the 60" y axis assembly can be folded away lengthwise with the 2x4 table for storage

    Ill be cutting artistic / low tolerance stuff with this, so im not concerned about extreme accuracy. the reason i want to build a table is because i have some quite complicated stuff to cut, and a cnc table would do the work in a fraction of the time

    heres some rudimentary plans to better illustrate my idea:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cnc table end.jpg   cnc table top.jpg   cnc table side.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    12

    outdoor plasma

    Hi Nick ,,why not vertical on wheels ? Outdoors ,,,makes your lawn brown :-)
    What wen it rains ,,,all the electronics ? Your cables should be as short as possible you know that dond you ?
    grtz Potsy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    6618
    Maybe I am missing how it would work, but it appears like it would still be 4 feet wide with the table folded. At least at the gantry.

    I think it might be easier to fold the whole thing up.
    It would likely need 6 wheels. Four close together that are permanent and the other two would swing out as outriggers to catch the table when folded back down. I think this way, you could get a 2 foot by 4 foot footprint when folded and still have a strong table.

    Also consider a table with high sides. That would make the box sturdier for folding and reduce racking and moving parts as well as the weight on those parts. You won't have a lot with plasma anyway, but even less with high fixed tracks on the X.
    Lee

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    5
    How about a design like this:
    http://www.steeltailor.com/

    Disconnect the cross beam, and it will be easy to store.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    16
    Quote Originally Posted by Dad911 View Post
    How about a design like this:
    http://www.steeltailor.com/

    Disconnect the cross beam, and it will be easy to store.
    Now this I find very interesting...
    Not trying to hijack the tread but does anyone here have/use one of these?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    10
    I feel your pain, but a soild deck would be best.
    Hinges are loose, even good ones.
    Tilt the whole table, or drop it down from the rafters on cables. Fold it down from one of the outside walls of the garage etc.
    If you build a table with wings, make sure they lock tight, in the same spot evert time.

    Pete

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    29
    Hi .
    I have a similar need, But was thinking more along the lines of having a fairly thin table, that pivots vertical for storage, you then store it next to your stock of 4' sq metal. It would only have one rail on one edge, with the crossbeam cantilevered from a carriage running on this edge rail. Also looking at an alternative design method, see last paragraph.

    In general terms it isn't the table that's the design issue, it's how you handle the X and Y rails/ traverse, if you have 48" and 60" rails, you need space to store an ungainly L shaped piece. If you can think of some clever way of separating the X and Y rails, you've gone 80% of the way to a solution.

    An alternative design has the X axis moving the sheet to be cut back and forth, while the Y axis is a gantry that runs across the sheet. Has the advantage the sparks and dross all ends up in a long thin collection tray, also you are not slicing through the support fingers in your table, so the "table" is a lot lighter, it's basically a big skid plate (or some conveyor rollers) and the alignment isn't critical. Disadvantage that partly cut pieces can snag. Some commercial cutters use this method, as they handle up to 24ft long sheets (but only 4ft at a time) they have pneumatic grabbers that grab and release the edge of the sheet.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    4
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeWay
    Maybe I am missing how it would work, but it appears like it would still be 4 feet wide with the table folded. At least at the gantry.

    I think it might be easier to fold the whole thing up.
    i would make it swivel 90* by removing some bolts, that way the 60" y axis assembly can be folded away lengthwise with the 2x4 table for storage

    the way its drawn in the images i posted its 60.5" between the legs for the overhead track @ gantry level

    see "gantry end view" image below

    as for having the table fold up, i think i know what u mean, and im going to play with the idea to see if i can draw up something that will work

    below, drawn up in green, is a very very hacky version of what i think you mean, i just have to play with the pivot point to see if i can get the table and gantry centered over the 2x4 footprint

    Quote Originally Posted by potsy
    Hi Nick ,,why not vertical on wheels ? ..... snip...
    vertical on wheels is something else i considered, but im wondering how hard it would be for me to load myself. i also like the idea of being able to have a water table (yes i know the extensions would have to be drained before their folded lol)

    all the eletronics is exactly why i want a machine with a small footprint so i can roll it indoors when not in use, and i have a laptop i can use to run the machine, so the cables will never be to long

    Quote Originally Posted by peteach
    I feel your pain, but a soild deck would be best.
    Hinges are loose, even good ones.
    Tilt the whole table, or drop it down from the rafters on cables. Fold it down from one of the outside walls of the garage etc.
    If you build a table with wings, make sure they lock tight, in the same spot evert time.

    Pete
    i was planning on making the wings bolt into place when in the up position so that the hinges werent the supporting factor when in use. i just havent gotten as far as thinking that part out. good thing too because you guys are giving me new ideas already

    Quote Originally Posted by Dad911
    How about a design like this:
    http://www.steeltailor.com/

    Disconnect the cross beam, and it will be easy to store.
    interesting design, but im wondering how much it would rack, and im wondering how much machining i would have to have done to keep close enough tolerances to minimize play in everything

    well, i applogize to anyone i didnt answer or any points i didnt touch on, but i had a 12 hour work day and now i have to go do another 3 hours worth of my own manual labor, lol

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    4
    woops, forgot the images
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails gantry end view.jpg   flip up cnc table.jpg  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    This image is more like what I was referring to. You have two outrigger legs(orange). One is shorter than the other and folds into it. The other folds just outside that one. The table swivels at that one point shown (green), but has locks for both upright and folded position so that your water tray and table are fully supported when full. The tray would mount just under the frame.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fold.jpg  
    Lee

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    10
    Nick
    So long as your rails are straight, true & tight (no bumps) you're good to go.
    I think you have gotten enough feed back to make your first mistake.
    Get on with it.
    No one gets it just right the first time.
    No one knows your needs better than you.
    Build it, fix it, document it, fix it again, document it, etc.
    When it works for you, post it.
    I might want one too..!!!
    If what you wanted was on the shelf, you wouldn't be here.
    Start building, Good Luck, Keep us updated.

    Pete

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeWay View Post
    This image is more like what I was referring to. You have two outrigger legs(orange). One is shorter than the other and folds into it. The other folds just outside that one. The table swivels at that one point shown (green), but has locks for both upright and folded position so that your water tray and table are fully supported when full. The tray would mount just under the frame.
    ah i see, that makes much more sense. and it looks like if you took the legs and installed flanges on the top tubes (top side of the top green tube, buttom side of the top orange tube) you would be able to then bolt the material table right to the legs when its in the "operational" position

    im going to continue to refine the design on paper, as the more detail i have on when matials are needed the more i can nit pick the scrap at work (stuctural steel fab shop)

    yesterday i got -basicly- 25+ feet of 3/16 x 6 hot rolled flatbar for free, with the boss mans permission to boot .... so over time i should be able to build a plasma table for next to nothing (+ electronics of course)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    88
    So what did you decide? I've been contemplating the same thing. But actually trying to determine which manufacturers kit(torchmate, dynatorch, etc) would be easiest to adapt to a flip up design.(like a hollywood bed) I want to buy one so i can have the companies tech support.

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