[rweatherly]

I am going to modify my jgro design to put the Y axis (the axis that the gantry rides on) bearings similar to John's second design, where the bearings ride on top and side of the 1" pipe. Has anyone else done this?

[jgro]

For DXF files, look here: http://www.cnczone.com/modules.php?n...viewfile&id=24

jgro

[cadfish]

great plans. now if I can build it I'll be happy.
Thanx

[systemfoxtrott]

You should run that by Craig Libuse.One of those little set ups could possably be marketed with their stuff.Heck they did something different for Hightower.Nice work and great base plans.

[mrbaseball]

I am wondering if greater cutting depth can be implemented into your design? What would be the drawbacks or things to watch out for?? I'd like to be able to cut some 3D items like R/C boat hulls, etc.

Thanks,

[mikeschn]

Does any one have this modeled up in solids, that would be willing to share?

Thanks,

Mike...

[roadkiller]

I'm gonna try to see if i can change the solidworks drawings to millimeters and then export it to *.pdf Hope this will help other europeans like me.

I have a small question when looking over the plans, I am a total noob to this but I was wondering if the item you call the anti-backlash nut is the same (or has the same function) as a ballscrew you can find on ebay etc. Some items I can't find on the mcmaster.com website. Maybe it's possible you can supply direct links to the items we need.

EDIT: I will automatically convert it to millimeters. It can happen that some screw sizes aren't used in the metric system but if you use something close to it I think it will work. Also I'm going to round it off to a full millimeter, no numbers after the comma. In my opinion this differnce is marginal and it's an accuracy you'll never be able to get using hand tools.

[trw1]

how do you size to 4'x8' thanks

[ynneb]

I'm gonna try to see if i can change the solidworks drawings to millimeters and then export it to *.pdf Hope this will help other europeans like me

Dont you mean the rest of the world ?
Funny how the country the most resistant to changing to metric, has so strongly adopted the measurement of a foreign kings foot. And yet the country whose kings foot was measured, has abandoned the imperial measurement.

[wile_e]

Dont you mean the rest of the world ?
Funny how the country the most resistant to changing to metric, has so strongly adopted the measurement of a foreign kings foot. And yet the country whose kings foot was measured, has abandoned the imperial measurement.

I agree !
I just recalled... Mars Climate Orbiter ... great sucsess... NOT!!!!!

[jwstolk]

I am wondering if greater cutting depth can be implemented into your design? What would be the drawbacks or things to watch out for?? I'd like to be able to cut some 3D items like R/C boat hulls, etc.

In theory, you could make the vertical ax (Z) as long as you like, the problem is that
things will start to bend more and more. if you make the z-ax lager, you need to:
-space the Y-ax rods further apart
-space the bearings on the Y-ax further apart (which makes the rods longer, so
they bend even more!)
-space the bearings on the X-ax rods further apart (which makes the rods longer,
so they bend even more!, and makes the whole machine a lot bigger)

or, make all parts realy stiff, and support the linear bearing rods in many places.

how much things bend is also depending on how much force you couse at the end of
the mill bit. when milling foam you can get away with a lot, since the forces are very small.
In aluminium the force needed to "push" the mill bit through the material will be much
bigger.

of cource you could just cut aluminium in many passes, so each pass removes a very
small amount of material, witch reduces the needed force on the mill bit accordingly.
taking many passes will be slow, but from reading this form, i get the impression that
that is the method all these small cnc mashines use to mill aluminium. :-)

So, it all depends, but basically you imagine pushing hard agenst the tip of the mill
bit (from all possible 6 directions), and think of everything that would bend because
of that (both bending of rods and bending of (wood or alu) machine parts, and the
effect of play in the linear bearings).

You will end up spacing things far apart to keep the moments small, but making things
short to prevent bending. (and find a middle road)

i hope this helps.
Jaap.

[roadkiller]

Nah, I mean Europe, don't care much for the rest of the world J/K
Small question though, anyone has experience with xynotek (or whatever they're called) shipping to europe?

[ger21]

Small question though, anyone has experience with xynotek (or whatever they're called) shipping to europe?

Xylotex
http://www.simplycnc.com

[roadkiller]

Unfortunately they don't sell the 3 axis kit there. But I still have time to look things over on what to choose. If anyone can tell me wether the steppers speed is related to the strength/accuracy on what you want to cut? I want to cut wood and computer sidepanels. Also a bit of copper milling.

[robcnc]

Great plans! I particularlly like the adjustment block idea, I have not seen this before (I am new to this group so not sure if others have employed similar). I am building myself a gantry mill and may well incorperate some of the ideas you have presented.

Thanks, Rob.

[esmiller]

Well, I have finally had enough of continually adjusting, and re-adjusting in an attempt to eliminate flex, and finally acepted that I had inherent problems with the basic construction of my machine.

After accepting this, I have completely dis-assembled my Y & Z Axis units, pulled them apart, and have used Gorilla Glue on every place where wood meets wood, and had to be bolted together.

I had too much problem with bolt holes stripping, and i guess it never did tighten up completely. When it dries tommorrow, I will (Hopefully) re-assemble it and see if this helped...

Of course, now i have to completely re-align everything again...

BUMMER !!! :violin:

:drowning: Hope I am not in over my head.. all my money i gone.. time to sink or swim now..

Eddie

[whelzorn]

Ok, to start off, I am new to this site, so I would like to say hello to everyone!

I have been looking into the option of building a CNC router for a little while now, and now that I've found some free plans, I am starting to get excited! The problem is though, I am a bit intimidated by them. Some of the parts that are needed in the design, such as the X-axis top plate are so precision looking and have so many holes/diameters it looks like you would need access to a CNC router to make the part. So I ask you, how does one do it? I have a drill press, band saw, table saw, and alot of other woodworking equiptment, but I still don't see how I could possibly do this without a CNC router.

Any hints on the building process would be greatly appreciated, since I am at quite a loss here.

Thank you,
Justin W.

[bobgerman]

Patients is a virtue. Just think of it as "One cut at a time". Don't be afraid to ask questions here as you go along. There seem to be a lot of fellow DIYers that are more then happy to help out.

[ger21]

Some of the parts that are needed in the design, such as the X-axis top plate are so precision looking and have so many holes/diameters it looks like you would need access to a CNC router to make the part. So I ask you, how does one do it? I have a drill press, band saw, table saw, and alot of other woodworking equiptment, but I still don't see how I could possibly do this without a CNC router.

Any hints on the building process would be greatly appreciated, since I am at quite a loss here.

Thank you,
Justin W.

I haven't seen the part, but usually sets of holes need to be parallel to the edge of the part. First thing is to make sure you're parts are perfectly square. This should be pretty easy with a properly setup table saw and miter gauge, or sliding cutoff table. Make a fence that you can clamp to the drill press table to insure that the holes are parallel to the edges. If you reference all the holes from the same edge, everything should be pretty accurate.

If you need pairs of parts with matching holes, screw them together (or use double face tape) and drill them together. If you need different size holes to line up in different parts, attach the 2 parts together and drill the smaller size hole in both. Seperate them, and clamp it in place on the drill press table with the small bit in the hole. Then just switch to the larger bit, and make the hole bigger. Hope this all makes sense.

[whelzorn]

thank you for your replies! now looking at it, I should be able to get through the parts that are made of MDF with holes. but now I have another problem (well, question) Some of the parts made from MDF have threaded holes. How can I do this? I know that i can use a tap, but is MDF really 'precise' (for lack of a better word) enough? will the threads be strong enough to support the screws? I ask because I have never worked with MDF, but if its like any other particleboard, I can't see it working. Anyway, If anyone can tell me how I can put threaded holes in this stuff, I would really appreciate it. Also, since most of this design is MDF, I need a place to get it. Does Lowes or ACE or Home Depot carry this stuff?

-Justin W.