[tozlakes]

I am in the need of some detailed instructions on the steps to convert a jpeg. picture into a dfx. I have someone with a automated plasma torch but for him to cut my pieces he would like for me to send him pics in the dfx. format. I have Coreldraw 8 and was told this would work but would like to know the steps for converting. In addition, what kind of clarity or detail does the machine need to cut a quality piece? Any info or links would be much appreciated. Cheers :cheers:

[Al_The_Man]

Draw it up or import it into Coreldraw and Export to DXF. keep in mind that Plasma is not capable of real fine detail due the arc width.
Al

[Al_The_Man]

Also look at this link, it might help if you want to scan in first http://www.torchmate.com/assistance/convert.htm
Al

[High Seas]

There are a few other options available - and Corel does the trick if you have it. Check out:
http://cnczone.com/modules.php?name=...rticle&artid=2
I know the title is 21/2 or 3 D but its really about image to Gcode and dxf on the way... Cheers - Jim

[tozlakes]

Thanks for the feedback from all. It got me to the first step of taking a simple line drawing and converting it using the OCR-trace by "centerline" within Corel. My next step is a more detailed picture that seems to me that it would need to use the "outline" in OCR-trace? The problem is that once I do this the picture becomes very mechanical looking and looses it's smooth lines. Is this an actual problem or will the Plasma torch smooth those lines back out during the cutting process? Maybe I should be using something different within the software to make the cmx. look more like the original jpeg I started with. Next, I've saved it as a cmx. in Corel trace then open it up in CorelDraw for the last steps. The last item before saving it as a dxf according to the shortcut that "Al the Man" sent me was to highlight each image within the overall image, Control "C" copy it, delete it, then control "V" paste it back into place in the order that I wish it to be cut. (inside details first, then overall outside image last) I would have thought that this step would be within the cutting machines software? Overall, does it sound like I am on the correct path and if not please advise? I am trying to do this blind so anyones feedback and struggles that they have already endured would be appreciated. Thanks in advace for the help! Tozlakes

[High Seas]

Tozlakes - The way I understand the process, you change the order of the file by the method you described. Then when the cutting process happens, it follows the order in which the file was created. Thats why Al suggested the approach. It makes for more efficient method of cutting.
I just played with Outline from www.fastcamusa.com. It imports images and creates dxf files using outline or centerline. Not to send you chasing "yet another" program to solve the problem - but if you've got the time it might do it for you. There are other programs that have a "smoothing" routine that gets your lines (if curves) smoother. cheers - Jim

[enfofan]

I am using Corel Graphics Suite V9.0

I will scan an image, photogrph or magazine whatever- I will
manipulate with Photo Paint, convert to black & white LINE ART; save
as bit map image;
this image will look like basic images or silhouettes if you will;
open in Trace and convert to vector ;
save as .dxf

Open Draw
open dxf file;
select all
ungroup all
use Object Manager
create a layer for each and every object in the image

at this point you can select the cut order by selecting the objects
in the order that you want cut

click and drag the object to a layer in the Object Manager

at this point I like to de select the view option- that is click on
the 'eye' and the image will not be visible

this helps me keep up with the order of things and not to mistakenly
place the object into another layer

repeat the process until all objects have been assigned a layer-
make sure that only one object per layer

the final object- the exterior object of a design would be the last
layer or highest number layer; this is the last cut path

I then will go back to the first layer and click on the 'eye' so
that each object is visible again

I can then see the cut sequence of the piece that I am working on

continue until you can see the image.


Now a potential problem will be that you have jagged lines in these
objects instead of smooth lines-

A manual fix is required (as far as I know the automatic
process to clean up the 'nodes' will eliminate too many nodes)

in Corel the lines are made of of a series of nodes(dots)

one way to clean up these lines is to use the Shape Tool(F10)

use the mouse to select the object that needs work-

oh BTW you will need to ZOOM in on the object a bit to actually see
these squigly lines

once you have selected the Shape TOol - left click on the object and
drag across part of the line that needs smoothing-
this will highlight the nodes
select the delete button

repeat as needed-
if the shape goes beserck Ctrl Z should get you back to try over
again with less agressive node reduction

repeat on every object as needed-



If your CNC software will not insert Lead-Ins and Lead-Outs, you can do this manually with the shape tool; the point in which you would like the LI highlight a node with the Shape Tool- then move the cursor to the work bar in the left corner and select the line break button; move cursor back to that node and left click and hold and drag the lines until they have criss-crossed, and close up the gap by dragging other nodes closer together or add additional nodes ( I have not experimented with placing LI/LO in different places within the object)

you might find your self unable to edit some of the inner objects (as in the case when you have saved your work and are now doing more editing)
if that is the case
go to the Object Manager
go to the highest number layer
click on the 'eye'
so that the layer is not visible
now try editing that inner object

once you are finished- ctrl E (Export the file as a .dxf

I really like to Export rather than save- I have no idea why;
actually I think that it prevents me from inadvertanly saving in the
Corel native file format .cdr or .cblah blah

and then import that .dxf into the CNC table software and set your
scale and other parameters as needed.


This is not exhaustive (or is it?) and I am sure there are other
ways to do this- but it works for me!

Cheers,
Frank

sorry for the mispellings didn't have spell check and I only glanced
for the obvious errors.

[InventIt]

Frank,
Great detailed explaination!
Seems like ALOT of work espesialy if your working on something very detailed.

What settings do you use in Corel Trace? What works best for you?
Thanks

[enfofan]

It is true that it does seem as a lot of work when working with a file- isn't it great that technology allows us to save these files rather than punching paper tape and fearing a tear requiring replacement!
Anyway the projects that I work on (metal art) do tend to get a lot of detail, but you gotta have 'em to get 'em sold.

As far as working with Corel Trace- I use the standard Outline setting (button)

once I get my image in the shape I want, it's saved in .dxf and imported into FlashcutCNC for conversion and processing.

Cheers,
Frank

[InventIt]

Thanks Frank,
Yeh, I get the best results with the standard trace too. Still far from perfect. Have you ever tried printing you jpg/bmp image and carefuly tracing it in pen then scanning it high res into Corel? Thought this may help eliminate those jagged edges you get from a low res image. Just a thought, have yet to try it.

Rob

[InventIt]

Frank,
Maybe you could help me process this jpg. My friend wants me to carve this into a alum plaque. I tried Corel Trace, just can't seem to get it to work well. Any ideas

Thanks
Rob

[enfofan]

Rob et al;
I tried printing on my laser printer at higher resolutions too. Found that it was just as time preserving to use PP and the paintbrush, zoomed in at a high rate, and using the medium brush, cleaning things up a bit. Then transforming through Trace, opening in Draw and using the shape tool. The +mode or -mode tool really help in smoothing lines and curves.
Frank

[A. Shuford]

I was going to write a response to this discussion based on my experience with my Torchmate Plasma Cutter and my new (homemade cnc router). Normally I stick my foot in my mouth on a regular basis. I was about to until I read the reference from Jim on other raster to vector converter programs.

Thanks Jim

Dick Shuford
Pleasant Hill, La

[High Seas]

A. Shuford - Dick, I'm pleased you found the review helpful. I may do a "Redux" as I have time--catching a few other approaches and a bit of clean up on version 1.
I gotta say enfofan - Frank has done a nice step-by-step up thread - Thanks for that! Cheers - Jim

[anoel]

No auto trace program is going to give super clean... CNC ready results right off the conversion. You have to get in and either clean up the "traced" vector results or redraw the item manually (Which is usually the quicker route if you take a little time and learn to use the editing tools in the program.)

Corel Trace does a decent job on somethings but you usually end up with some jaggies and a ton of points and objects that you don't want to cut.

[enfofan]

Jim- thanks for the compliments. glad to be able to help others as I too try to learn from the boards as well.
If anyone has tried to figure out the moniker I use: Enfofan it is derived from English Ford and Fan[atic] I have a 1959 Ford Consul Convertible under going full restoration.

The Corel trials and tribulations are endearing since most of the Corel boards don't deal with non graphical arts uses of Corel PP and D.

Regarding Trace, I find that much of my 'tracing' comes out rather clean. Admittantly the Shape Tool is my buddy and I still learn more about it's features everyday.

the fact that I am a professional hobbyist, I try to squeeze every bit of performance out of my software that I can learn about or figure out. So if I have to finesse some wiglgy lines and scratch my head trying to figure out how to break a line to incorporate lead in and lead outs because I am too cheap to buy the software that will do these things, but at cost in the hundreds or even thousands- no thanks, I get great pleasure to find a way to succeed and say YES! that worked.

Cheers,
Frank

[TinkerDJ]

Awesome posts enfofan, helped me out greatly. I got at least 4 designs down now from jpg to dxf.

Have a good holiday season.