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Thread: electronics

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    22

    electronics

    hello i am building a cnc machine i have built the mechanical parts now i need the electronic parts i clicked one of the advertisement on this site and saw that there are lots of electronics and i am confused i want to ask if i need these parts all to use my machine

    * Qty 3- Geckodrive 201 - 10 uStep/Step 7A Drivers
    * Qty 2 - Stepper Motors - NEMA 34 - 450 oz-in Motors (S34HT450-S)
    * Qty 1 - Stepper Motor - NEMA 23 - 260 oz-in Motor (S23HT260)
    * Qty 1 - Power Supply - P500-3020 - 30 Volt 20 Ampere Power Supply
    * Qty 1 - Breakout Board - S3BRK2 - High I/O Count Breakout Board

    and if i need these all can u give me some alternative shops that i can buy thank you

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    22
    thank you but can u also tell me which ones i should buy i dont have much money so i want to buy the only ones that makes my machine run. thanks

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578
    Well you would have to tell us what machine you are building? A CNC is too broad of a subject.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    22
    i am building a cnc router that i will use it to shape some woods

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3757

    Smile The minimum.

    dreamci.

    Your list is about the minimum you need to do anything useful.
    Cars have 5 wheels. Steering wheel missing means new concept required.

    Don't forget a PC or Laptop, minimum 1Ghz, parallel port, 1/2G ram. and a Mach3 license if you run more than 500 lines of g-code, which you will unless your are making simple circles etc.
    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.

  7. #7
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    May 2008
    Posts
    22

    thank you neilw20 that answer was what i needed i wanted to learn if it was minumum

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Choosing the correct motors is not quite that simple. You need to take into account how the machine is driven (leadscrew, rack and pinion, belt drive), any gearing used, how much weight your moving, and how fast you want to accelerate and travel at. Only then will you know what motors you'll need for the machine to do what you want it to do.
    You can find motor sizing software and formulas at motor manufacturers websites.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    22
    can u give me an adress to calculate motor size . thanks

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    1778
    Quote Originally Posted by dreamci View Post
    can u give me an adress to calculate motor size . thanks
    I am attaching a "Word" file that contains the text of a message that Mariss Freimanis wrote to help someone figure out what motors and gearing to use on a machine. You can learn a lot by studying the formulas that he used.

    Alan
    Attached Files Attached Files

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    22
    hi i still couldnt understand which ones to buy. i know i have to buy three stepper motor,a power supply, a breakout board, and a 3 axis driver but i am confused which ones i should buy i know nothing about electronics these biopolor unipolor or something confuses me i dont want to buy something wrong bec i have very little budget
    here is the cnc i am making can anyone experienced tell me exactly what i should buy(must be minumum bec i want it to be cheap) i have written the dimensions so you can help better. thanks (its made of mdf and the angles are aliminium)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cncmech.jpg  

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578
    dreamci

    While I admire your desire to build from a scratch design to save money, I believe you should use a proven design to save money for the first one you build. A Joe's design, Buildyourowncnc, or any other of a dozen free plans available on the web or on here is the best way to get your feet wet. There will definitely be another machine in your future no matter what size you build. Using a proven design lets you get in with the least amouont of money (no mistakes therefore scrapped ideas). There are even designs that give you all the supplies available for assembly. You know up front the costs. You arent giving us enough information to give much of a suggestion as to materials needed. such as construction materials for table, leadscrews, weight of gantry, materials to be cut. It appears that your design would fit any of the above mentioned machines. And those have motor sizes and screw pitches, ect in the Bill of materials.

    Bob

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    22
    hey blackbeard, i am making the cnc from buildyourcnc site, i followed step by step instructions, i finished mechanical parts and i was ready to buy the electronics, but now i cant reach to owner of the site i am not sure if he ships to my country, then i tried to buy the parts seperately but hobbycnc also doesnt ship to my country and buildyourcnc guy (phooddaniel) didnt give much detail about the electronics he has used so i cant buy from another place because i dont know if it works, so i am trying to find another solutions to move my cnc , any ideas?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578
    Ebay or Kelling has stepper motors at 250 oz/in and up it appears this is the size listed on the site. It doesnt matter but select unipolar motors and buy the new Gecko 540. Power supplies can also be had from ebay but buy what is suggested by gecko to get the best performance out of the drive and motors. My suggestion is to jump to the Gecko forum and ask Mariss..... http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...395#post495395

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    22
    hey blackbeard that drive is too expensive i think, cant i find a cheaper one for my router , its $299.00 and i will still need breakout board if i buy this driver right?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578
    yes you can but for a newbie like the most of us the difference between fiddling around and making something is valuable... there are a lot of cheaper drives. just go to ebay and bid ( i did that and have a box of useless or underpowered cards) Much more money in that cheaper solution. Dont get me wrong there are good cards out there but you will need a bit of electronic knowledge, experience, or good ole Zone help and patience to get them going

    Bob

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    3757

    Smile

    BUMP!! Any more circuits available? Gone a bit quiet here.

  18. #18
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    Jun 2010
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    0
    Hi there!

    I just finished my TB6560 based driver board but I have some issues with it.
    If somebody was facing similar problems I would need their advice.

    I reviewed my schematics but I can’t find anything wrong.
    So straight to my problem… when the motor is in stand-by (no clk) everything seems to be fine there is no sound coming out from the motor, holding torque is OK.
    When I start the clk signal (MACH3) the motor is spinning but it is not smooth. Without any load there is some noise coming from the motor as it would miss steps. This is happening even at very low pulse rate.(tried with more motors, and just to make sure the chip is OK I replaced it…same issue)
    I spent almost a full day debugging the problem but I could not find anything wrong with the exception that I can see a kind of noise on pwr lines and even on the CLK line. The noise is something around 100KHz but not stable (it does not look like is the osc freq). It has a very small amplitude but it may cause this kind of “rasping” sound. The waveform of the noise is similar to what I can see on the RNF pins.
    Does anyone know what’s the max clk pulse width allowed for this chip? The datasheet says typical is 100ns but could not find the max. (my pulse width is around 2us)

    If there is somebody who could help me and interested in what I can see on the scope I can post some screens.

    Many thanks in advance guys!

  19. #19
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    Jun 2007
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    3757
    Please post a picture of your board and wiring.
    Wiring and layout with these circuits is often critical.
    Have you read the application notes for the chip?
    Do you have data sheet?
    Super X3. 3600rpm. Sheridan 6"x24" Lathe + more. Three ways to fix things: The right way, the other way, and maybe your way, which is possibly a faster wrong way.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    0
    Quote Originally Posted by neilw20 View Post
    Please post a picture of your board and wiring.
    Wiring and layout with these circuits is often critical.
    Have you read the application notes for the chip?
    Do you have data sheet?
    Well, it's nothing special, only the basic schematics from the data sheet and just a few extras.
    Sorry, but I'm not able to send you a PCB layout for now.
    Do you have an app note? I couldn't find one.
    Yes, I do have the data sheet and I already know it by heart


    by the way data sheet....I found something strange in it. It is mentioning 3 or 4 times that the chip has built in pull-down resistors for TQ2 and TQ1 but it does not. I saw in many schematics on the internet that people are using pull-down resistor and I always was wondering why and now only I know why.
    When I was looking at those pins (without external pull-down) I saw this pins where kind of floating or pulled up rather then down and of course default torque is 20% not 100% as mentioned.
    After all this i'm not wondering if there are more mistakes in the data sheet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails sch.jpg  

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