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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > CNC Wood Router Project Log > Will Build a Moving Gantry ROUTER-comments appreciated.
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Will Build a Moving Gantry ROUTER-comments appreciated.

    Will design & build a Moving Gantry Router while I’m waiting for parts on several other Projects I’ve started.
    I’ve calculated the travel should be about 54” x 44” x 6’’, because I have Thomson rods & ball bushings on hand which dictate those dimensions.
    The Frame will be constructed of Rectangular steel tubing & the Gantry will be made from 6061 Aluminum plate.

    I will include Drawings & calculations & welcome comments & suggestions!

    Next week I will start machining the raw material and will post photo’s to record my progress!

    W.Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails gantry router iso-01.jpg   Craig's Comp 004.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    235

    Thomson rails

    Hi
    I used Thomson round rails on my machine. They are not as precise as the square rails ie THK. When I was designing my machine I asked the Thomson engineer what is the recommended spacing for the guide block. The answer was extreme. If the width of the machine was 20 inches that was the needed spacing to minimize racking. I didn`t follow the recommendation because I didn`t want to lose the extra travel on the X axis. Mine was a 13 inch spacing.
    I do get a small amount of racking. My machine is 36 x 60

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Thomson Rails

    Bgolash:
    Thanks for your input on your Thomson rail & ball bushing configuration.

    I think I can minimize the problems you describe by driving the X axis with a Master/Slave orientation using 2 Racks located on the Steel Square tubes that support the ¾” dia Rails.

    My Y axis rails are ¾” x 48” lg OPN’s. The X rails are ¾” x 60” OPN’s.

    The Y axis is well under way. The rails are alligned to ea. other with 2 precision machined & reamed End Caps. Then assembled on a 2” x 4” Square tube slotted on the rear side to mount the Z axis and further isolate the 5/8-5 ball screw from contaminants generated by the router.

    Enclosed are photo’s of tube machining.

    W. Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails T01.jpg   T02.jpg   T03.jpg   T04.jpg  

    T05.jpg  

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    "Y" axis taking shape!

    “Y’ axis Parts in work!

    After machining the Tube, material was prepared to use for the precision End caps.

    The end caps were stacked, drilled and pinned with precision dowels.
    All matching holes were then drilled and reamed for the .750 dia. Thomson Case60 Rods.
    The center holes were drilled and bored for the bearing pockets, to support the Ball Lead Screw.

    Next the rods will be joined to the end caps and located on the tube to check for fit.
    Hopefully this should result in a strong, moderately light assembly.

    W. Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Y-EndcapsR.jpg   DSC01358R.jpg   BallScrewBore7R.jpg  

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1187
    Whoa whoa whoa there Speedy!!! What happened to your other build ,with the cast iron?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    Nice work - It sure is convenient to have mill access to build a wood router.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    More Progress!

    ZipSnipe: What are you doing over here in the Woodworking Forums?
    Guess I should ask myself the same question!
    Take a look at post #57 over in my neighborhood.

    Harryn: I have a Boss 4 & a 2J. I love the “Mighty Bridgeports”

    Joining the 2” x 4” tube to the End Caps and OPN Rails is
    documented here!.

    W. Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01363.JPG   DSC01364R.jpg   Y axis Pre-Assy.jpg  

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Work continues!

    Before installing the “Y” endcaps I assembled the basic frame to check my progress to date.
    The frame is far from finished and lacks the structural integrity necessary to support the table
    properly.

    The “Z “ axis mounting plate & rails are shown as partially completed, but will be described in detail after the “Y” Axis is completed.

    The electronics enclosure was designed & fabricated & will also be assembled when parts are delivered.

    W. Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Y axis assy.jpg   Y  Rail Inst'l.jpg   Table #1a.jpg  

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334
    This Time I will begin machining the plates to support the “Y” axis bearing blocks.
    They will form a structure which will allow the lead screw to be hidden in the main Tube. Normally the structure would form a C section. The Top & bottom plates supporting the blocks & the front plate mounting the “Z” axis & the Ball Screw Nut.
    By adding a rear plate the lead screw nut can be attached to the back side of the tube, completely isolating the slot in the tube from chaff .

    The plates are notched so that screws can be placed horizontally & vertically
    to keep the joints from parallelogramming under load.

    Here Goes!…….W. Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Y-Z Mtg Block.jpg   ZAPL-01.jpg   ZAPL-02.jpg   ZAPL-03.jpg  

    ZAPL-04.jpg   ZAPL-05.jpg  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334
    The Y-Z mounting block was finish machined & assembled.
    The next step will be to machine the Thomson Ball lead screw stock to size,
    install the bearing blocks and ckeck the Y axis for “Smooth Running”.

    If this goes well then machining the X axis end plates should complete the
    X-Y components for the moving Gantry. I’ll install Thomson double Ball nuts on the Y Axis screw. I used this configuration on a Bridge Mill Design several years ago and it’s worked flawlessly.
    At $22. Per Ball nut it’s good insurance!

    W. Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Finish Mill.jpg   Y-Z Mounting Block 1.jpg   Y-Z Mounting Block 2.jpg  

  11. #11
    Looks like a solid design, nice to see you making all the parts yourself too!
    Widgit

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334
    WIDGIT: Enjoy your threads….Keep up the good work!!

    Assembled the Y axis and the ball Bushings to the Mounting block.
    The assembly as pictured weighs 33 lbs. The Mtg . Block slides
    very smoothly on the Y axis Rails. So far…. So Good!

    Next I’ll fabricate the X axis mounting plates and end caps, tram the X axis rails,
    and check the gantry for precision movement.

    I’ve decided to increase the X mtg. Frame from 2” x 2” to 2” x 4” to obtain more
    Surface area to mount the .5” x.5” - 20 pitch Racks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01401R.jpg   DSC01402R.jpg  

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    Very nice build.. Hope u will start cutting soon..keep it up

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Wink

    Khalid: Thanks!! I'll Keep working as fast as I can.

    The X axis mounting plates are relatively simple to fabricate.
    Two 5” x 8” x .5” plates , drilled & tapped 5 places to mount the End Caps
    which connect to the Y axis. Another set of holes is required to mount the
    two Thomson Ball Bushing Blocks. A ¾” dia rod was used as an allignment
    fixture.

    W. Smith
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01337R.jpg   DSC01338R.jpg   X mtgPlate 01.jpg   X mtg plates.jpg  


  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    X axis end plates in work!

    The X axis end plates were cut from one piece of .5” stock as indicated in the photo’s.
    The plates were mirror images so one series of cuts did it!
    Then the leading edges were chamfered .125 x 45 DEG to remove the sharp corners.
    The mounting holes were drilled & counterbored and prepared for assembly.

    Hope to finish the Y axis next week, then on to the Z axis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01324R.jpg   DSC01325R.jpg   X axis End Plates 01.jpg  

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Finishing the Y axis!

    The next step is to assemble the X axis Ball Bushing assembly to the Y axis end Plates
    and do a quick check to confirm that it fits on the Frame. If this works out, then I’ll
    disassemble the various plates & the Y axis tube and ScotchBrite all the Aluminum
    Surfaces before applying a clear overspray for protection.

    Next week I'll assemble the X-Y axis Gantry & install the Y axis Stepper.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01340R.jpg   DSC01341R.jpg   DSC01345R.jpg   X mtg Bkts.jpg  


  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Y AXIS GANTRY

    Finish work on the Y axis Gantry.

    First task was to fabricate the ball screw mounting bracket.
    The bracket must be screwed on to the ball nut before it is installed on the screw.
    Then the Screw assy can be mounted into the tube and secured with the end caps.

    The left side end plate was drilled & tapped to attach the motor mounting bracket and the size 23 motor.

    The adapter plate was machined and installed between the lead screw mounting bracket and the Y-Z mounting block.

    The adapter plate was modified several times to increase the surface area of the LH shoulder which serves as a rotation stop for the ball nut.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Y Side Pnl - 2nd OP.jpg   Ball Screw Mtg Bkt 01.jpg   Ball Screw Mtg Bkt 02.jpg   Ball Screw Mth Bkt 03.jpg  

    Ball Screw Actuator Assy.jpg   Actuator Bkt 02.jpg   Gantry Assy 05.jpg   Gantry Assy 04.jpg  


  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Some Progress at Last!!

    The Y axis was completed with the installation of the motor mount and Stepper!

    The Z axis was also completed.
    See photo's of the whole process including the Die Grinder Installation.

    Have decided to use a 3 to 1 reduction on the two Rack & Pinion Modules
    for the X axis & am working on the design now.

    Then it's on to the Frame and finishing with the Electrical Stuff.

    W.Smith, Mission Viejo, CA
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Y axis Motor Mount-01.jpg   Y axis Motor Mount-03.jpg   Z axis01R.jpg   Z axis02R.jpg  

    Z axis 03R.jpg   Z axis 04R.jpg   Z axis05.jpg   Z axis 06R.jpg  

    Z axis 07R.jpg   Z axis 08R.jpg   Z axis 09R.jpg  

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334

    Finally-Some Progress

    Several major changes have been implemented on this design since the last post.

    The mounting Frame/Stand has been completely re-configured.

    We were able to obtain some new NSK Size15 Linear Rails 1800mm (70.8”) long.
    The 2” x 2” x 5 ft. side rails were then replaced with 2” x 4” x 6 ft. 3/16” thk. tubing.
    The 4” tubing height gives us much more latitude in placing the racks on either side
    of the machine for coordinated motion on this the long axis. The 3/16 “ thickness
    also allows drilling & tapping the tubes in 30 places to attach the Linear rails.

    The 2 pinion Assemblies were copied from the design by CNC ROUTER PARTS.
    If the Gantry assembly wasn't already completed I would have purchased their stock product.
    At $85.ea. They are a real good buy!
    Our's were modified to use with the gantry side panels which required extending the
    width and adding bushings to the 3/8 “ Socket head shoulder screws.

    The next step will be to exchange the Ball Bushings for the NSK size 15 trucks on the
    Gantry, add the structural elements to the frame, install the table, and then the fun begins!

    W. Smith, Mission Viejo, CA
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Router-Y-Z 01.jpg   Router-Y-Z 02.jpg   Router-Y-Z 03.jpg   Router-Y-Z 04.jpg  

    R & P Drive-Gear Red.-02.jpg  

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    61

    Smile

    It looks very good
    What kind of speed's are you looking for? I bet you can go pretty fast with those well machined parts of yourse

    Do you have a plan for "dust shoe"? ,if yore planning to do some wood-cutting you'll need it.. or as in my case, when I cut Alu with a one flute 6mm dia cutter the chips fly all over the place, I seriously need some kind of chip-deflector so I dont clog up my ballscrew's

    Keep up the very good work and keep the pictures coming!!

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