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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    887
    That would be very stranger when there are a black an red wires present dont you think?
    Perhaps, but it wouldn't be the first time. But you are right, it probably is a ferrite bead.

    Without having the actual encoder in hand or a photo or two of it with the cover removed there's really not much more we can do to help Ben. You'll have to figure out which leads are the power and the red and black seems to be your best bet - but why doesn't it work then....

    /Henrik.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by H.O View Post

    ........

    but why doesn't it work then....

    /Henrik.
    Now that would be the 100.000 $ question.
    I got a feeling this encoder is not working as it should. . . .
    It shout be easy to measure the output of the A and B signals with a multimeter.
    Hopefully an oscilloscope will shed some light on this .. .

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    Bad news my friend with ociloscops..teacher in a scool electronical lab.. just whwn i arrived to him somebody called him and tol his father has few houres to live(,an must run at hospital to be with him so aprox a week he wiill miss the scholl..till then i dont have patience i will try another of my encoders {i discovered another with 4 wire}..
    MY questiion now is ..if i dont know wiring of encoder and i put 5 volts on each , in all combination i coud break encoder??? is any problem if from mistake i put 5 v on "A" OR"B"?
    BEST REGARDS BEN

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1050
    Ben your best chance would be to open up that encoder case - take pictures and post it here.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    PHOTOS
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0481.jpg   IMG_0483.jpg   IMG_0485.jpg  

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1050
    can youget a good focus on the circuitry? the third picture?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    More than this i cant found about ..:banana:[problem now is to identify wire oreder, in my encoder one little pcb circuit is in front of encoder..]
    for sure i know now is ttl compatible and good for uhu and to change into a big motor..but must find if they works

    http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...sqx320k9fy.pdf
    ben

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    one mistery resoved...like we thought from the start..blach ground red + green "b" and orange"a"
    Now to find if encoder ..becauze i used already inthis position... or uhu have problems...the hard beginin

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    887
    So, now that you know which wires are what connect it to the UHU and do the same measurments again. When rotating the shaft slowly, does the voltage on the A and B channels toggle between 0 and 5V?

    Continue to rotate the shaft, after anything between 1/10 and 5 turns (depending on settings and encoder resolution) the ERROR-LED on the drive should turn on. If you have the tuning software running with the Analyzer turned on you should see the line on the top "following" the shaft as you rotate it.

    If the first test is OK but the second one isn't then the pulses aren't reaching the UHU chip OR it isn't running properly. Is there a LED connected to Pin18 of the chip? If so, that LED will should turn on when the chip is running - if it doesn't there's something wrong. Check powersupply voltage right at the chip and check that chrystal and capacitor for it are mounted properly.

    /Henrik.

    EDIT: Oh, you can be pretty sure that the chip is running correctly if you can talk to it with the tuning-software - which you said you could so it's probably OK. If you press '?' and hit enter you see something like this right:
    Code:
    (P)rop. 900
    (I)nt. 24
    (D)iff. 260
    (H)iOrd. 400
    Ma(X) 300
    (T)orque 255
    I(N)ertance 150
    (E)rror 2000
    (M)ult. 0
    (O)verrun 0
    (C)ycle 50
    (L)oad [0,1,2]
    (S)ave [0,1,2]
    (G)o [Wert]
    (C)ounter

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    dont know what to say..i removed encoder cover i put wire like in specs ..red diode is lightening..i have tension on A and Bbut not 0-5, 0 -5 like you said continuous power..somebody told me that multimeter coud not be so sensible to detect 0-5 -05 -05 ..Another problem i think is not ok..it hink uhu is ok ..i see that window you said when i press"#" not "?" but i measured on pins where i must put A and "B" line +5v tensionthat dont means that uhu think he receive continuous pulses???and encoder have nothing to do there??? Who can help me with this question?? must be tension 5v there on "A"and"B"from uhu??

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    887
    Hi Ben,
    I'm having a bit of a problem following what you are saying here. I know english isn't yore native language (mine either) and that you are new to this forum but please take a step back and read thru what you've written before posting. It will make it easier for people here to help you, which means your frustration will end sooner.


    OK, if I've understood correctly you've verified that the encoder IS INDEED working. When measuring between the black lead and the A-channel you get either 0 or 5V when you turn the motor shaft - same thing for the B-channel, correct?

    If you meassure the voltage at the A and B inputs on the drive without any encoder connected there SHOULD BE 5V on both of these connections because there's internal pull-up resistors on the drive.

    Please look at the attached picture, follow these notes and let me know the results:

    Connect the encoder to the UHU, connect negative lead of your meter to GND on the drive and leave it there. Power up the 12V powersupply but leave the power for the motor turned off. The Power LED should come on as soon as you turn on the powersupply. After a second or so the Chip-runnind LED should come on.

    Question 1) Are both LEDs ON?

    Question 2) Connect the positive lead of your meter to point [1] (the 5V output to the encoder). What is the voltage here?

    Question 3) Move the positve lead to point [2] (encoder channel B) and slooowly turn the motor shaft. The voltage should toggle between a low value and a high value, what are there values?

    Question 4) Move the positive lead of the meter to point [3] (encoder channel A) and repeat the process, what are the voltage reading here?

    Question 5) Move the positvie lead to point [4], be very carefull not to slip and short something here. Again, slowly turn the motorshaft, the voltage should toggle between 0 and 5V - does it do that?

    Question 6) Move the positive lead to point [5], and repeat the process, the voltage should toggle between 0 and 5V when you rotate the shaft - does it do that?

    Question 7) If you keep on turning the motorshaft does the Error LED ever turn ON?

    It seems that you're very close to get this thing going, so relax, slow down and try to think logically. You're getting there!

    /Henrik.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Bens UHU.jpg  

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36

    edit:

    Question 1) Are both LEDs ON?
    [B]R: yes
    Question 2) Connect the positive lead of your meter to point [1] (the 5V output to the encoder). What is the voltage here?
    R:5v
    Question 3) Move the positve lead to point [2] (encoder channel B) and slooowly turn the motor shaft. The voltage should toggle between a low value and a high value, what are there values?
    R; continuous 5v no toogle no sinuous nothing
    Question 4) Move the positive lead of the meter to point [3] (encoder channel A) and repeat the process, what are the voltage reading here?
    R:same as nr4
    Question 5) Move the positvie lead to point [4], be very carefull not to slip and short something here. Again, slowly turn the motorshaft, the voltage should toggle between 0 and 5V - does it do that?
    R:0.0v
    Question 6) Move the positive lead to point [5], and repeat the process, the voltage should toggle between 0 and 5V when you rotate the shaft - does it do that?
    R:0.0v
    Question 7) If you keep on turning the motorshaft does the Error LED ever turn ON?
    R: never

    In my non professional opinion all encoder are broken..uhu seams to work fine error led is shining when i put E2000-G3000 in UHU control software, H led lightening when i put power to motor, in soft program eeprom OK and all that calibration things E ,A , G , M etc. are fine only in analyze mod i see a straight line in place of sinuous signal{like i said 5v never toggle on line "A"AND"B"]
    Another thing are you sure 4 place is not 5th pin on that ic and 5place isnt 6 pin? i really don't know to read a schematic but seams are 5 and 6 and no 4 and 5 like you said..[and i apologize if i tell a stupidest]
    Not my native but i can work to improuve my style as you see.
    [or 3 and 11 on 7414 in my schem, really dont know but where you said to me 4 th and 5th are 0,0 v]

    ben

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2758
    Hello Ben;

    I think that the encoder could be defective or mis-wired, it looks like a single channel encoder to me, what is the part number written on the encoder?

    Kreutz.

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    hi,
    Down here i put datasheet of encoder. is TTL ,2 channel quadrature, 5 volts.,and i found right wiring but no sinusoidal signal in all 3 encoders.
    http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...sqx320k9fy.pdf
    Btw i readed for about 2 years old uhu threads..nice job you and guys with HPuhu..is finished is more stable no errors like in old uhu? what is difference in stability betwin those 2? pieces from uly uhu are~same in your hpuhu?is free layout and diy scheme for it? you wrote another chip code??please tell me about.{and in your opinion i can do good job in sculpting wood only with this old uhu board?{i know power difference ,encoder line differential..pictures..my wish is to know if is ok old uhu for wood router without those error that was reported from so many users in past..if i put differential line to mine it would be ~like a professional one?
    ben

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    1050
    ben - one problem at a time - there are many UHU working of the older design.

    one example is here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2pRCX8kfpA

    you need to decide if the motors u have are enough ? I see you have different motors - you may end up with different powersupplies to power each.

    for a first get better/new encoders - if the present ones dont work.

    you can do good work with the old board - so continue with them

    differential would definitely help

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    887
    Hi Ben,
    OK, the drive seems to be working fine then. At least as far as we can test it now.

    Tell me again, didn't you test the encoder without having it connected to the drive and you could see the voltage toggle between 0 and 5V on both the green and orange leads?

    I may have messed up the arrows in my picture (I'll look into that later) but as long as you don't get a voltage that toggles between 0 and 5V as the answer to question 3 and 4 there's no use to dig deeper.

    So again, without the encoder connected to the drive. Do you get a toggling voltage on both the green and orange leads on the encoder?

    The signals on the green and orange leads should "overlap" each other a bit so you should be able to determine (to some degree) if it really is a quadrature encoder:

    A _______---------________--------________--------

    B ----________--------________---------_______----

    It really sounds like an iffy encoder but I thought you had verified that was working.....

    /Henrik.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    62
    The good old UHU design works very well for motors up to about 500W so they should preform well i your case I think. I think your encoder are defective. You could try and measure the voltage on the A and B channel on the encoder PCB. You posted the datasheet for the encoder chip right?

    Anyway get a hold of an encoder you know work, I think that will solve your problems.

    regards
    Chris

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    I will buy some motors from here:http://www.hi-end.ro/servomotor-p-2180.html
    In few days i wiill be able to say what is wrong..
    ben

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    23
    cheap motors at http://www.hi-end.ro/servomotor-p-2180.html.
    did they sold only in romania ?

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    36
    Dont know ,but those are second hand.

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