[behindpropeller]

I'm working on tooling up our TM-2. What size of 45 deg. shell mill? I am planning on picking one up from Maritool.

2.48 or the 3.15 Diameter?

Thanks

Tim

[Geof]

I suggest postponing the purchase of any shell mills or face mills until you have experience with the machine. The TM mills do not have a gearbox and do not have enough torque to drive a large shell or face mill, especially in steel; even in aluminum the depth of cut and feed have to be limited to avoid bogging down the motor.

[behindpropeller]

I suggest postponing the purchase of any shell mills or face mills until you have experience with the machine. The TM mills do not have a gearbox and do not have enough torque to drive a large shell or face mill, especially in steel; even in aluminum the depth of cut and feed have to be limited to avoid bogging down the motor.

Thanks Geof

Any other advice to a guy just learning CNC with a TM-2? Previously I had used a bridgeport for hobby projects and R+D work.

Thanks

Tim

[Geof]

Thanks Geof

Any other advice to a guy just learning CNC with a TM-2? Previously I had used a bridgeport for hobby projects and R+D work.

Thanks

Tim

Just my standard advise; don't waste time on the Haas Intuitive Programming or Quick Code just jump into G-Code.

Expect to be pleasantly surprised at how much more capable the TM is compared to a Brdigeport regarding speeds and feeds. Compared to the bigger Haas machines it is very limited but coming from youtr direction it is a good step up.

Just start doing things and post questions as they come up.

[CADMatt]

Hi,

I've been using a TM2 for some time.

Keep you cutter dia's small. Geof is right about their limited torque, I refer to mine as a Toy Room mill. I wouldn't recommend going over 2" really. What you loose in dia you'll gain with feed & depth of cut.

I can't agree about staying away from Quick Code or Viz Quick Code though. I use them all the time; tool changes, pocket milling, hole cycles, bolt hole patterns, pocket milling, hex milling etc. I work on low quantity high-value parts (they've usually had expensive turning ops before I see them) and anything that keeps my typing and hand calculations down is major bonus. I'm not a beginner that doesn't know better, I'm an old hand that knows a gift horse when he see's one
Sure it's not perfect, but it pumps out the code.

[Geof]

......I'm not a beginner that doesn't know better, I'm an old hand that knows a gift horse when he see's one
Sure it's not perfect, but it pumps out the code.

This is my point; I firmly believe beginners should learn G-code and develop the same skill set as 'old hands' that probably learnt it years ago when it was the only way. This way they develop the knowledge and experience to evaluate other approaches and benefit to the maximum extent from other approaches whether it is Intuitive Programming, Quick Code or CAD/CAM. When you start out from scratch with these 'easy to learn time saving methods' it is true the learning curve is steeper and shorter, but I think it can tend to peak out. Learning G code is defitnitely a longer process but when it is combined with learning Macro programming there is almost no limit. In addition a good knowledge of G code allows you to evaluate the other approaches and use them more effectively.

[extanker59]

I agree. If you're in this field for the long haul and there is ANY possibility of changing jobs where they don't have Haas, learn G code! I have seen many "machinists" come into a new job and, because of that limitation or they just did one thing for years, they were percieved as not very capable.
G code is everywhere and if not then learning their version of quick code is much easier (might not be Haas).

[CADMatt]

I agree. If you're in this field for the long haul and there is ANY possibility of changing jobs where they don't have Haas, learn G code! I have seen many "machinists" come into a new job and, because of that limitation or they just did one thing for years, they were percieved as not very capable.
G code is everywhere and if not then learning their version of quick code is much easier (might not be Haas).

I've seen them come into new jobs and be perceived as not very capable because they can't or won't use such systems and they'd rather take longer over writing code that could have one tiny human error that'll scrap the job.

The good thing about the quick code is that is gives you the code, it doesn't hide it away. By all means, learn to understand what it's giving you but staying away from it is not good advice IMO.

[CJH]

I agree with a lot of what the guys have said so far. We have a TM-1 and we use no bigger than a 2" face mill with a shallow depth of cut. Overall the TM Series of Mills is a good starting point getting into CNC on a limited budget. Ours has been the a real work horse for almost 5 years now. It was the only CNC machine we had till be bought a router. Mostly we stick with .5" and under cutters, for the bulk of the work needed. There are occasions that we jump up to .75" and 1" but it's rare.

I can't speak about the quick code stuff since we don't use it on our mill. More than probably 80% of the parts we make, involve 3D machining of complicated surfaces, so we have to rely on CAM to do the job. I sometimes feel handicapped not having expirience with hand writing G-Code. I guess that comes from the fact that I jumped in on the deep end with CAM in the last job I had. But getting a chance to do some of it would be nice.

Probably the easiest thing to do is start out simple, and work your way up. Evaluate your jobs, and pick the right method for that part. If you have the luxury of time then expiriment a little with different methods. But keeping an eye on this forum is a good way to learn and get help. There are a lot of guys like Geof who have been around quite a while, and really know there stuff, that will give you any advice when you have a question or problem.

CJH

[WGJ]

I have the TM-3. What you will learn pretty quickly is how to 'carve' with smaller cutters. It is hard at first to change your mindset when coming from a J-head Bridgeport; using larger cutters spinning slowly and feeding slowly. Honestly, I rarely use larger than a 1/2" cutter. I do have some long 3/4 EM's for side facing tall sides (good for finish) and I have one 1.25" 2 flute carbide insert cutter designed for aluminum that will rip, but I generally carve with a 1/2", whatever the material. I have a job shop and have made all kinds of shapes with mine. The control (IPS, VQC) is very limiting. If you can't spring for cam software or have an advanced knowledge of g-code, don't expect to be able to do much more than squares and circles. Sure, they can drill and tap and write your name, but most shapes in the world are blends of partial squares and partial circles and the IPS and VQC can't do these. I model in Autocad generate code with Mastercam, even if it is a 4 bolt pattern in a square plate....it is lightning fast at generating pages and pages of code.

All in all I love my machine. I have tweaked mine so it is a little more than a stock machine . Geof's comments on their limitations is true...they aren't VF's. They are not nearly as fast or rigid, but they are capable machines none the less. Another of his comments is also extremely true : as you come up with questions .... post them here! I cannot tell you how valuable the community think tank here at CNCZONE is.

[behindpropeller]

Thanks for the replies.

I am primarily a mechanical designer. This machine will help us cut down on some prototype time as well as help (teach) me design easier to machine parts. And be able to do some personal projects.

I just purchased a used seat of OneCNC this week. I hope to play with it this weekend and maybe try to cut some air with it....maybe some wood. I have also been reading smids book on CNC programming.

I need to brush up on stuff like chip loading/feeds/speeds but I think those questions will come next week!!

I appreciate the help.

Tim

[CJH]

I hope some of the things mentioned help out. All in all I think that you'll be happy with the mill. Coming from a manual background the learning curve should be realtively short since you have a CAM program. But learning all the ins and outs using CAM can be a steep curve if really dig deep into the programming on complex parts.

We have been really happy with our mill. Sure it would be nice to have a VF in the future, bu the TM get the job done. I've talked to quite a few people that use the TM's for prototyping and they like them a lot. It's by far not a production machine, but good none the less.

One really big pice of advice is....if you plan to use coolant on the mill, have a mop and plenty of drip pans handy. They leek like a sive. But that's a trade off with not having and enclosed mill.

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi Tim,

I am a hobbyist machinist. I have a TM-1P that I purchased last year. I too purchased a used seat in ONECNC. I purchased the Mill Advantage XR2. I recently upgraded to Mill Advantage XR3. They occasionally offer discounts on their upgrade products. You should contact your local sales office and ask to get on their mailing list for special discount offers and update information.

ONECNC also has a GREAT private forum that you can access as a registered user of the ONECNC product. They have a modified post that I have used on my TM-1P and it has worked great. It should also work on your TM2.

They also have some very talented individuals there that can help you along the way.

I purchased some ER16 and ER32 tool holders and collets that I use on my machine from Maritool.

Hope you enjoy your new machine.

John

[behindpropeller]

Hi Tim,

I am a hobbyist machinist. I have a TM-1P that I purchased last year. I too purchased a used seat in ONECNC. I purchased the Mill Advantage XR2. I recently upgraded to Mill Advantage XR3. They occasionally offer discounts on their upgrade products. You should contact your local sales office and ask to get on their mailing list for special discount offers and update information.

ONECNC also has a GREAT private forum that you can access as a registered user of the ONECNC product. They have a modified post that I have used on my TM-1P and it has worked great. It should also work on your TM2.

They also have some very talented individuals there that can help you along the way.

I purchased some ER16 and ER32 tool holders and collets that I use on my machine from Maritool.

Hope you enjoy your new machine.

John

John-

I have read several of your posts on here and Practical Machinest and they have helped me alot. I just purchased a copy of OneCNC XR2 Advantage, the biggest selling points are the private forum and their willingness to upgrade and transfer ownership of the software.

Our TM-2 has the bigger coolant pump, rigid tapping, 20 place tool changer, extended sides (I'm sure I will be building a full enclosure soon), and a Marposs probe system.

I am skeptical on the Marposs so far as the tech has not been able to get it to work, its only the second marposs install he has done. Plus I have yet to receive any technical publications for it.

I purchased several tools from Mari also, er 16 and 32 collets/holders. Kurt D688 from productivity.com, and some misc. stuff from Enco, all of the pull studs were bought from TJ Davies (best price, made in USA).

Tim

[HelicopterJohn]

First, thanks for the kind words. Just trying to be helpful where I can as others have helped me.

I would be on your HAAS HFO and get them to make your Marpross Probe and tool setter work correctly or change it out with the Renishaw while it is still under warranty.

The 20 position tool changer sounds nice. It is easy to fill up the 10 positions in my TM-1P.

I have 3 of the Kurt D688 vises on my TM-1P. I had to cut off about .750 of an inch off the hex where the handles fit on to get them to clear the door during homing opeations. I realize that your don't have an enclosure yet but when you design one make sure that you take that into consideration.

Have Fun!

John

[Vern Smith]

I have a TM-1P and as Geof has pointed out they lack spindle power. This is not the only thing to consider when buying a face mill. General recommendations are to limit engagement to 60 or 70% of the cutter's diameter. If you plan on doing a lot of facing off of wide parts using a relatively small depth of cut then power is not an issue. In these situations the larger diameter will save time (fewer passes) and leave a nicer finish (fewer lines).

If you are removing a lot of material your larger diameter will still remove as much metal as a smaller one but will do it with less step over or depth of cut, the run time difference will be small.

Vern

[lkenney]

For a feeds and speed reference, i use Pro ME by micheal Rainey, It has done me well for several years. You can down load a share ware version buyt buy it it will save you many times the cost in end mills.

Lkenney