[Dustin407]

My name is Dustin and I live in orlando FL and I am going to build a 4x8 plasma cnc. I have completed 3 mnths of research/design and ready to build...

[Dustin407]

Here is a pdf file of my 3-d plasma design. It is about 90 percent complete except minor brackets and stuff...

[WP1]

Just a note from the been there, done that file -

The "minor" brackets and stuff are not "minor" and should be the center of your design. Otherwise when you're trying to make those "minor" brackets to connect the "major" components you will run into all kinds of clearance and adjustability issues.

Be sure you provide a way to adjust every axis to be properly planar and perpendicular to the other axes. This can be simple like bolted connections with room for shimming since it will only need to be done once.

You can easily do pitch error compensation in most control software, but I haven't seen anything with the ability to do 3D axis perpendicularity compensation, i.e. apply compensation to the Y axis based on the X axis position because they are not perpendicular.

[Dustin407]

WP1

I have designed the entire machine to make sure I do not run into any problems.. That is the advantage of 3-D drawings to see any minor mishaps. I was waiting for the motors and roller bearings etc.. to come in so I can mic. them. After getting a true measurement on that peice I will go back and finish designing the brackets. Thanks for giving me the advice on the adjustable axis that is a great idea. I will bolt everything and plan to use fine steel shim stock....I will try to build the table as true as possible first. I have access to a full machine shop (my friends) this will help..

[Dustin407]

I have just finished cutting and welding everything up for the waterbed stand. It turned out extremely well everything within a 1/16" square and level. I will start construction on the alum. waterbed this week...Here are some pics..

[Weldtutor]

Nice start on the table Dustin.

Your research seems to have paid off!

Pictures show a great piece of welded fabrication.

Thanks for sharing & keep us posted.

[Dustin407]

I am getting ready to order some paint for my waterbed table before it starts rusting to hell. Not the actual waterbed itself (out of alum)but just the metal stand in the pictures below.. What kind of paint should I use, I was thinking of the DP-40 epoxy paint or sandable primer and enamel. Im not sure on what to use.. Any suggestions in the paint realm....??

[Dustin407]

I worked on the alum. waterbed this past weekend. Everything went as plan, just a few more things left to do on it. I have to epoxy/rivet the slotted alum. L channel to the 1-1/2" cross braces to hold the 3" x 8' steel slats. I will post more pics. as soon as it is finished...

[millman52]

I am getting ready to order some paint for my waterbed table before it starts rusting to hell. Not the actual waterbed itself (out of alum)but just the metal stand in the pictures below.. What kind of paint should I use, I was thinking of the DP-40 epoxy paint or sandable primer and enamel. Im not sure on what to use.. Any suggestions in the paint realm....??

Might be worth checking out the POR-15 line of products. The POR-15 primer is specifically designed for use over bare & rusty metal. I have used it on badly pitted rusty metai & it does do what they say for stopping rust in it's tracks. http://www.por15.com/

The POR-15 primer really does quite well being brushed on. I was amazed that brush marks were just about non existent.

[TerraWombat]

Might be worth checking out the POR-15 line of products. The POR-15 primer is specifically designed for use over bare & rusty metal. I have used it on badly pitted rusty metai & it does do what they say for stopping rust in it's tracks. http://www.por15.com/

The POR-15 primer really does quite well being brushed on. I was amazed that brush marks were just about non existent.

I can attest to the durability and effectiveness of POR-15. I bought their "starter pack" about a year ago to use on an old, rusty trailer that was sitting in some weeds in my backyard and the results were amazing. I brushed it on to eliminate wasting paint due to overspray (POR-15 isn't cheap) and like millman said, the brush marks are non existent. This stuff also goes on THICK and covers very well so you can usually get away with a single coat. Be warned that it is light sensitive and its color will dull if left in direct sunlight, but its corrosion/rust protection properties remain.

[millman52]

I can attest to the durability and effectiveness of POR-15. I bought their "starter pack" about a year ago to use on an old, rusty trailer that was sitting in some weeds in my backyard and the results were amazing. I brushed it on to eliminate wasting paint due to overspray (POR-15 isn't cheap) and like millman said, the brush marks are non existent. This stuff also goes on THICK and covers very well so you can usually get away with a single coat. Be warned that it is light sensitive and its color will dull if left in direct sunlight, but its corrosion/rust protection properties remain.

I bought it to use on a truck dump body. POR-15 recomends the primer be top coated with another product to protect from sun damage.

The primer WILL NOT remove from skin if it dries there either. You literally have to wear it off.

POR 15 might be overkill for a plasma table in general but for a water tray..... Build it set it outside & let turn orange from light rust & REMOVE ALL MILL SCALE. Dry off & coat with POR-15 primer. I think it would be a nearly forever finish.

[TerraWombat]

The primer WILL NOT remove from skin if it dries there either. You literally have to wear it off.

I painted the frame on my Jeep project with POR-15 and got a bit on my hands and arm. This was maybe three weeks ago and the stuff on my arm finally wore off a couple days ago. I found that if you get it on your hands, it'll come off in only a few days if you're constantly doing manual labor like I am. I also found that if you let your hands get "pruney" in the shower, it'll scrape off relatively easy.

[Dustin407]

Thanks Millman and Terra for all the advice... Before I got a chance to read everyones post I went to a Tractor Supply store a day ago and bought Industrial Enamel made by Valspar. This paint is not regular enamel it comes with a hardener which is almost like an epoxy paint. I talked to a couple farmers in the store that painted their tractors and implements with valspar before and said it is some good ****..lol. It must be a great paint because tractors and tow behind equipment endure some of the most brutal conditions possible... Sun, rain, abuse, dust, full dirt contact... etc. For the one gal. prim. and one gal paint it was $87.00 The only downside to the valspar their was only five ugly colors to choose from, so I bought gloss black. I still have my receipt if you think I should get the Por-15 instead???, I can take back what I have already purchased. Thanks again for the advice..

[TerraWombat]

Thanks Millman and Terra for all the advice... Before I got a chance to read everyones post I went to a Tractor Supply store a day ago and bought Industrial Enamel made by Valspar. This paint is not regular enamel it comes with a hardener which is almost like an epoxy paint. I talked to a couple farmers in the store that painted their tractors and implements with valspar before and said it is some good ****..lol. It must be a great paint because tractors and tow behind equipment endure some of the most brutal conditions possible... Sun, rain, abuse, dust, full dirt contact... etc. For the one gal. prim. and one gal paint it was $87.00 The only downside to the valspar their was only five ugly colors to choose from, so I bought gloss black. I still have my receipt if you think I should get the Por-15 instead???, I can take back what I have already purchased. Thanks again for the advice..

I have never used Valspar, but I've heard numerous positive results from others. I don't think you need to take it back based on the recommendations that millman and I made because, like he said, POR-15 may be overkill for a plasma cutter. I'm also curious to see what you think of this paint as I've contemplated using it on a few projects that I have going, but aren't worth enough for me to use my POR-15 stash

Just make sure you prep the metal properly or no matter what paint you use, it won't turn out right.

[Dustin407]

The last couple nights I have been trying to finish up the waterbed. I used 3-m epoxy (820) and blind rivets to install the alum. L-channel to the alum. plate. This will increase its overall structural strength and keep the tank from leaking. I filled it up with water a few hours after the glue set and I was suprised ...NO Leaks...wooooohoooo I will have more pics next week..

[millman52]

Preparation is a must especially on new steel. There is always oil & then mill scale. To get a really good paint job on these projects is very time consuming.

I didn't paint mine at all. I knew it would have taken me at least a week. After the build is complete, I felt I would have to disassemble it to clean it well enough for paint. Then would come the job of putting it back together again. It just wasn't worth it to me.

[ynneb]

What would happen if you used sand instead of water?

[Weldtutor]

Great looking water container Dustin407!

Don't use sand in it. The compressed air from the plasma cutter would cause the plasma "dust" to be blown around the work area, rather than being captured as is done by the water.

[Dustin407]

Millman, I plan on sanding/polishing/grinding all the millscale off the steel and then giving it an acid bath. I have given acid bath to many steel /paint projects and paint seems to etch into the steel with the acid... Your are very correct with time consumption and I am not looking forward to this phase of the project at all... But I do want the table to look nice for people from disney and universal studios are my future clients and they will probably see it at some point.

Weldtutor & ynneb, You could use sand for your table but it would have to have water mixed into it (like drywall mud) so sand doesn't blow around like weldtutor said. But you would have no advantage compared to water, especially if sand got in your gears/ rails... nightmare.. The objective of the water is to take the vaporized metal dust out of the air. Also to keep certain material from warping like s.s.

[millman52]

Dustin, How are you moving along with your project?