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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    WELL I Finally did it.

    After many moons of lurking i finally did it.

    I ordered

    1 Harbor freight X2 (44991-7VGA) (Small but i think it'll do)
    1 CNC Fusion Kit #4 with helix
    3 KL23H2100-35-4B X3 These say 30 days.
    1 KL23H284-35-4B (Not sure why i got this one maybe for forth axis)
    1 KL-350-48 48V/7.3A,
    1 G540
    1 Mach3
    1 C11 (i know i don't need this but i picked it up for future)
    1 E-Stop
    6 Limit switches
    shuttlepro2

    Now to the questions for the Masters

    1 Am i missing anything?
    2 Tooling? Tough question i know but do i need the tormach Colet holders? Where do i get the cutters is their a starter kit somebody sells. i want to cut 6061 thin plates 1/4"-1/2" detail would be nice think keychains.
    3 Whats the best belt conversions?
    4 what the hell am i doing?

    thank you for your advice.

  2. #2
    3 1/2 years of lurking, it's about time!

    Good choices there.
    Use the KL23H284-35-4B (387) for the Z and save the 318 for the 4th axis.
    Read thru the Mini-mill review for some good tips on what to do when the mill arrives.
    They have a list of some accessories to consider too.
    LMS has a good users guide and a tooling introduction with convenient links to the very parts they sell.
    I have links on my Shop Info page for the MIT videos and CNC programming book for more info.
    That ought to keep you busy for a while.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    Diffrent Motors

    Thanks Hoss.

    I got this today.

    You order KL23H2100-30-4B ( 3pcs they are out of stock)
    we have
    KL23H2100-35-4B (1/4” Dual shaft with a flat) 318 oz-in
    Specification


    does anybody any objections to switching to these motors?
    I'm not totally clear the difference beyond the duel shaft thing.

    thanks for your help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    10
    The shaft sizes appear to be different and the torques are different too.

  5. #5

    You ordered (3) KL23H2100-35-4B's (318's),
    they seem to think you ordered (3) KL23H2100-30-4B's (382's)
    you WANT the 318's so there shouldn't be a problem.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    thanks

    I just saw that and dropped them an email.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    fixed

    for the record these guys a good. They have replied already and have fixed the order.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    402
    Good luck with your build!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    167
    yeah keling is quick to respond to emails and calls, they were great with correcting my order, I have a keling/gecko package with roton ballscrews that is almost completed. The 318s werent available when I ordered, ill be curious as to know your review of them.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    resistor Question

    If i can read the gecko book correctly for my motors I should use a 3.5k resistor. I have some 3.3K what happens if i use that?

    Thanks again for all your Help.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    402
    You will need three of THESE 1/4 Watt 3.48K current limiting resistors for your 387s or 906:

    3.48KXBK-ND

    They only come in a pack of five, and with shipping it's about $3.50

    http://digikey.com/

    CR.
    sharing with you what was passed on to me.....

    3.48K will give you 97% of max current....

    according to Gecko.... you can run wide open without the current limiting resistor.... but there's some kind of optimizing feature in the G540 that will not function for you if you don't have a current limiting resistor properly wired in.

    the wiring diagram is silk screened onto the G540 itself.....

    you just wire the resistor inbetween two of you nine pins

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    belt drive stuck

    Im using a steele belt drive kit on this thing. But im running into a little issue. i have removed the spanner nut no problem. But the little metel black ring below it seems stuck. In the you tube video they just lift off. Ive pried at this thing tapped it some with a rubber mallet although not hard and it wont budge what am im doing wrong here.

    thanks for all you help

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    362
    Quote Originally Posted by jdemille View Post
    Im using a steele belt drive kit on this thing. But im running into a little issue. i have removed the spanner nut no problem. But the little metel black ring below it seems stuck. In the you tube video they just lift off. Ive pried at this thing tapped it some with a rubber mallet although not hard and it wont budge what am im doing wrong here.

    thanks for all you help
    I had exactly the same problem. A large pair of pliers to grip the black ring and a piece of metal on top of the spindle housing to lever the pliers against did the job.
    Regards
    Geoff

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    Got it fixed

    Well That was fun.

    I used tumutbound suggestion and had to hit the end of the pliers with a hammer to make it break free. The problem i believe was their was plastic bag all around the spindal top between it and the metal ring.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    13

    G540

    should my g540 be getting hot just sitting plugged into the power and the printer port? Mach is running and im trying to figure out why my fault light wont go out. I have the charge pump turned on.

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