[LeeWay]

This was posted on Youtube Mar 21, 2017.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_Mcu4TNmFw


Search replacement battery kit | Haas Parts | Genuine OEM Haas Automation® Parts Factory-Direct

[Diablo675]

I have a 99 VF5 that I bought new. Battery is over 18 years old unless Haas changed it at some time while out here. What diodes do I need to make a dual battery holder? Maybe part number from Digikey or size and type for forward voltage to find locally? Thanks for your help as I want to make one of these and put it in. This thread is awesome! CR123 battery work, or CR2 3 amp? Digikey has the the holders too as does McMaster Carr. Any specific one that works good? Just trying to get all of what I need on the first time. Thanks for any help you guys can give!

[john-100]

to minimise the volt drop across the diode I would search for shottky diodes as they have a lower volt drop than silicon diodes

forward volt drop for a schottky diode like PMEG4005ESFYL is about 300 mV (0.3V)
instead of 650 mV (0.65V) for a silicon diode like 1N4148

note - the PMEG4005ESFYL is a surface mount device and the 1N4148 is wire ended

John
PS



PMEG4005ESFYL PDF data



PPS
looking at the photo of the HAAS battery PCB it looks like the diode used could of been a BAT54

[Diablo675]

Thank you SOOO much, John! You are such a great help to so many of us here.

I did a screen picture of what I was thinking about ordering before seeing your latest picture. I was wondering what to use for the mounting base. Thin breadboard, painted plywood, acrylic sheet, etc. I could even make a copper plate board and etch a circuit, but at that point, it wouldn't be worth doing. It seems that the 1N4148 diode would be easiest unless you think that I should solder a pad for the surface mount tabs on PMEG4005ESFYL.

I make guitars so I am very detail oriented and good at soldering things. The 124 alarm came on a couple of days ago, so I thought that I could order parts and put this together instead of driving so far to Haas to get one of theirs. Again, thank you for your help for guys like me that are a bit in awe of the ancient electronics in these machines. CR123 or CR2/3? does it matter or not? I have them both listed but, of course, will only get the two that I need. You rock, my friend!

[Diablo675]

Ordered similar parts from Mouser electronics since they have a warehouse here in Fort Worth, Texas and they have Bat54 in stock. I got that and two 1N4148s just in case. Ground shipping will be here probably tomorrow. Thanks, John, and everyone here for your help!

Still have to figure out what to use for a mounting base. Any pointers or ideas on what to use?

This forum is great and I hope to be able to help others in the future. I'll post a picture of my board when I get it done.

[john-100]

while the tagged 3V lithium battery fitted on the HAAS PCB can be replaced by a CR2/3AA battery & holder (36-1011-ND)

you can use any 3V lithium battery on your DIY battery PCB as your not limited by its physical size
larger batteries will have a higher capacity and last longer so you can choose a battery that's easy to buy locally

I don't see any problem fastening two CR2/3AA battery holders to a piece of plastic or wood if that's what you have to hand
the battery alarm will operate earlier using a silicon 1N1418 diode

a wire ended schottly diode like the 1N5817 would be a better alternative

join the red wire to the two cathodes and a diodes anode to each of the battery positive terminals
the black wire to the battery negative terminals
and you don't need to use perf board / vero board or make a PCB



John

[Diablo675]

Thanks John! I got two of each of the ones in this picture so that the best ones can be used. Thanks for you pictures as that is just what I was thinking of doing. I guess that I could epoxy the diodes to a non conductive mounting surface and solder wire connections to them from the batteries and lead wires. I just want you to know how much your efforts are appreciated. My biggest problem from the start was the diode issue of what to use. I found ignorance is not bliss, but worrisome instead. I am remiss to ask anything else, but do you happen to have a preference of the diodes out of the following ones that I have coming?

[john-100]

from an electrical point of view my preference would be to use a schottky diode
surface mount BAT54 diodes are very small and you need a bit of practice to solder them to a piece of perf board

the 3 pins are fragile and need the support of the board , the weight of the wires could easily break them
pinout of the BAT54 with various suffix
Attachment 384190

from the parts you have on order the 1N4148 will be easier although the 1N5817 would be better
John

[Diablo675]

Thanks John. From the two BAT54 types that I have ordered, would one of the types be acceptable if I can solder them correctly? They are listed as Schottky diodes. Solder the wire from the battery positive to leg 1 and out on leg 3 leaving leg 2 empty? If not do I need to order something else? I could even route a channel for wire if needed into the mounting board to run the wire in kind of making a printed type board. If I'm careful with the BAT54s, I have an extra to practice with, can I use them? If so, or if I know which ones to get, I'll have no more questions and promise to leave you alone.

[john-100]

looking at the parts ordered and the data sheet

the BAT54C is a dual diode so you can either use one per battery connecting pins 1 & 2 to the battery positive terminal
or
use one diode for both batteries - pin 1 to the first battery and pin 2 to the second battery , pin 3 to the machine positive input

Attachment 384250

pins 1&2 on the BAT54 , BAT54A , BAT54C can be connected together when your using them as a single diode

John

note-
the BAT54 & BAT54C has pin 3 as cathode connection and is the positive output
and the BAT54A has pin 3 as the common anode of a dual diode and is the negative output

the BAT54S is the one to watch out for as pin 3 is connected to the anode of one diode and the cathode of the second diode in the package so you can't connect pins 1 & 2 together

[Diablo675]

Got it ready to go in.....I think. It measures 3.224V out of the floppy drive supply connector. Here is what I have put together. Thank you, John, so much for your help! I can't begin to convey how awesome and helpful you are to guys like me here on cnczone! Due to the learning curve and procurement of parts, it did take a few days, but now I could whip one of these up in no time. As long as you think that this looks correct, I'll put it in the VF5 and get it back to no alarms and making guitars. Thanks again, my friend!

[john-100]

I see you have used the easier to use wire ended diodes

looking good

just double check the wiring to the connector -
I think you need to reverse the red and black wires to enable the latch to retain the connector

Attachment 384796

Attachment 384798

Attachment 384800



John

[Diablo675]

Hey John! Yes, I used a meter on the board and found continuity between the right pin on J6 and the positive end of the battery on the board. Also, between the left pin of J6 and the neg of battery holder. I switched the red and black wires. It fits snug but doesn't lock in as you can see that all of the power supply connectors that I have are like the one in the picture. Looked at two power supplies. It seems pretty tight so it should hold pretty good. I cut mostly wood so it doesn't shake the machine much. I got the wire ends ones N5817s as they were easier to use.

Looks like Haas changed the battery at some point on one of their trips out here as it has the clipped in holder instead of the soldered battery. It registered 2.52 V!!!!! OMG that was close to losing all pentameters. Now I have it all in and I'm trying to get up the courage to remove the old battery and rely on the new dual replacement. I can't thank you enough for giving me the courage and know how to do this!! You totally rock.

[Diablo675]

I looked at your pictures again and saw that the latch is hidden on this connector so that's why it fits on there so good. Thanks.