[Herbertkabi]

Actually this finger gripper has 8 poles (fingers).
You can see M4 set-screw abowe lower bearing (total three(3)). Seems these are thread locked but so hardly I can not open. I have ruined or cracked seven hex keys tried to open this spindle. Yes - I want to look inside - but main problem is it is the only way to change bottom bearing. I never use common ball bearings like threre are, I have adequate super precision bearings for and I WILL DO IT even what ever will be needed for
Any idea about remove these screws without significant damages
Heat - I do not!
Perhaps some kind of chemistry?
Or just drilling:idea:

cheers,
herbert

[cut more]

Hebert,
If the builder used permanent loctite on those screws, you are pretty much stuck with either heat or drilling them out.

I would like a look inside that spindle also!

I assume that you have not actually used it to cut anything with to see if the toolholder is held tightly enough.

regards,
Cutmore

[Herbertkabi]

Yeah, you right,
Perhaps this spindle will be more like object of espionage
Possible that when face part of spindle removed - it will be impossible to fit it back again as precise as needed. I mean that fitting-surfaces will be damaged. Also possible that face and back are threaded between - then its more simple ...
But OK - will see,
I have sacrified a lot of nice things because my irresistible curiosity - no problem.

Regards,

Herbert

I havent tried like working spindle but drawbar holds toolholder so-so ... hard to examine. But anyway it is not a problem when DIY and try better ;-)

[jstiltner]

I have used special wrenches for my RC Helis they are ground from HSS and are MUCH better than normal hex wrenches, maybe try to source one of those and see if it will loosen the screws.

Mine are like these
http://www.readyheli.com/HZ025_Align...er_p/hz025.htm

[Herbertkabi]

I have used special wrenches for my RC Helis they are ground from HSS and are MUCH better than normal hex wrenches, maybe try to source one of those and see if it will loosen the screws.

Mine are like these
http://www.readyheli.com/HZ025_Align...er_p/hz025.htm

Mh-mhh, yes my friend, exact this kind wrenches I spoke about.
You right - these are the only usable hex wrenches I know, thankfully have more.
Common hex wrenches, especially sets of small sizes, are ... made who knows for what - anyhow not for working
Cheers,
Herbert,

By the way - Im familiar with rc-helis, I have several, mostly large electrics :wave:

[wwendorf]

It's going to cost me about $300 for the electronics. Short of buying a new mill, this is my cheapest route. I don't really have another choice if I want decent spindle control.

Wade

As a minor update to this, I got the details about the new electronics. Apparently, when doing the upgrade to the X4 electronics, I also wind up getting an entirely new motor. Apparently Sieg didn't like the motor in the X3 either, because the motors for the X4 and above are different. Anyway, I'm wondering what my mill will look like in red with a yellow faceplate?!?!? Might need to do some painting on that before installing.

Wade

[hoss2006]

As a minor update to this, I got the details about the new electronics. Apparently, when doing the upgrade to the X4 electronics, I also wind up getting an entirely new motor. Apparently Sieg didn't like the motor in the X3 either, because the motors for the X4 and above are different. Anyway, I'm wondering what my mill will look like in red with a yellow faceplate?!?!? Might need to do some painting on that before installing.

Wade

That sounds like a much better deal, get a New motor too.
$300 seemed like a lot to spend for quicker auto spindle control but I can see what a PITA waiting 30 seconds for the motor to come on would be,
especially if an ATC is a desire for someone.
Wonder why they thought designing the Syil SX3 that way was a GOOD idea.
I can see a COUPLE second delay for safety, but sheesh.
Hoss

[wwendorf]

The SX3 itself spins up pretty fast under manual control. It's about 5-7 second spinup if you do not have cnc control enabled. If you do enable CNC spindle control then you get the 30-40 second spinup times. But because this motor in the SX3 is SO weird, they had to use the stock electronics to get spindle control under CNC control. I don't quite understand it, but basically the speed control seems to work by constantly adjusting the speed up and down (simulating pressing the buttons) and trying to maintain the speed as close as it can to the speed programmed in with the CNC program.

The new electronics and speed control should give me about a 2 second spinup under CNC control. I'm really looking forward to that.

Wade

[hoss2006]

This is a quick look at the new toolrack.
It shows the 3 versions of the tool holder wedges, I'll be building this one.
It's only 11 inches OD.
I have my programs ready to go for this weekend to cut out the wedges and spars.
Time to make chips.
Hoss

[slashmaster]

This is a quick look at the new toolrack.
It shows the 3 versions of the tool holder wedges, I'll be building this one.
It's only 11 inches OD.
I have my programs ready to go for this weekend to cut out the wedges and spars.
Time to make chips.
Hoss

Make a video of yourself doing it full auto please.

[hoss2006]

Make a video of yourself doing it full auto please.

Can do!
Hoss

[dang]

I've just done a cursory inspection of the downward force/time requirements for forming a pyramid shape, as outlined here on pg 3. http://www.kirj.ee/public/Engineerin...g_2007_2_6.pdf

It translates to a little over 125 lbs of downward force for what would be an extended period of time. I don't think my X2 could handle that. I'm happy to be proven wrong on this count.

This subject should have it's own thread.

[slashmaster]

Can do!
Hoss

Thanks! Looking forward to it!

[Herbertkabi]

8° 17' 50 " = 8.2972222 degrees,
Yes, I understand about 3.5" -> 1 feet ...
The same when cone larger radius is 7 units and lenght(hight) is 48 units,
R/L = 6.8571428571 ...
but how to set-up this angle (or any similar) on the manual lathe

cheers,
Herbert

[Jason3]

but how to set-up this angle (or any similar) on the manual lathe

cheers,
Herbert

Hi Herbert,

When I cut a standard taper I mount and true a tool holder in the chuck and use a dial indicator mounted on the cross slide and carefully aligned to the lathe centre height to set the angle.

There may be better ways of doing it, but I've had great results doing it this way

Best regards,

Jason

[Herbertkabi]

Hi Herbert,

When I cut a standard taper I mount and true a tool holder in the chuck and use a dial indicator mounted on the cross slide and carefully aligned to the lathe centre height to set the angle.

There may be better ways of doing it, but I've had great results doing it this way

Best regards,

Jason

Yeah - perhaps my question was in wrong place - pardon me, please
But anyway Im building ATC as well - and this angle is bounded up with.

Many thanks, Jason - I got a idea how to set-up,

Regards,
Herbert

[Kipper]

Hey Herbert, when you finish reverse engineering that German chaps power drawbar how about a 340 Geckodrive? :cheers:



Is there an ATC being designed here?

[hoss2006]

Is there an ATC being designed here?

I think so, the topics may have skewed a bit of track but they are GREAT topics,
will be delving deeper into them myself.
Been busy with customer parts but I'm caught up now so I'll get back at it.
Hoss

[Kipper]

I think so, the topics may have skewed a bit of track but they are GREAT topics,
will be delving deeper into them myself.
Been busy with customer parts but I'm caught up now so I'll get back at it.
Hoss

Hey....You've been eating and sleeping again haven't you! Pack it in and lets see some action :cheers:

[hoss2006]

Hey....You've been eating and sleeping again haven't you! Pack it in and lets see some action :cheers:

Gotta get my beauty sleep.
might head down later tonight because it's RACE DAY!
Hoss