[heavensoutlaw]

I have a basic TM-1, in which I need to replace the ballscrew cover (front). Do I just take out the assembly by loosening the four screws in the front and slide a new one on? Any input would be greatly appreciated, because our company would rather spend $60 for the part, than over $300 to have someone else turn a few screws.

[CJH]

Pay to have a tech come in and do the replacement. We had it done 2 years ago. The whole ball screw assembly needs to be taken out. the process takes about 3.5 hours for the tech to do. Plus while they are in, the guy can look the machine over for any other issues.

CJH

[timmydabull]

just so happens i have been having front ballscrew cover problems as well,been setting off the y axis servo to large alarm and binding up when moving to y0 several time over the last few days.

last night at 1 am the ballscrew cover come unglued so to speak and i had to cut a portion off(small end) just to unjam the axis and get the machine to finish operations.

as i am now looking for replacement too any info you come across will be helpful.

thank you

[CJH]

Timmy,

If you have the TM-1P wich is enclosed it may be a bit more difficult to acccess the ball screw. But my answer would be the same to you, and have a tech come to do it. I'm not familiar with the way the ballscrew covers on on the enclosed TM's. Are they like the minis and VF's which have sliding caps the cover the ways as well?

[timmydabull]

Just to update,i had another error on the y axis today because of the ballscrew cover jamming and decided to see how hard it would be to fix since i couldnt afford the downtime,and everytime it jams depending where it is in the cycle it ruins a $450 part majority of the time had this happen 2 times in the last few days.

took a whopping 30 minutes to dissasemble and reasemble.

remove the brace from the front of the ballscrew.

turn the ballscrew until you can get a allen key on the pinchbolt on the nut holding the ballscrew bearing,remove said nut.

remove the bearing assy.

ballscrew cover slides out the front.

i reworked the ballscre cover and reinstalled it,one thing i notice is the amount of chips that find its way into that area,the bearing was completley clogged with chips to the point it would not move.

cleaned everything well and regreased the bearing.

i took some duct tape and closed off the area that allows chips to enter so to minimize chip invasion.

has worked well so far.

[heavensoutlaw]

Thanks to the both of you for the input, sorry it took so long to reply...I'm new to this and still figuring out how to use this site.

I had actually used some tin snips and just cut off the end that was binding (as you did).

Tim, great info for taking apart and replacing...thanks again!

[timmydabull]

Heavensoutlaw,
make sure the end sits parralell to the plastic sleeve it faces against,if you have any trouble with the ballscrew cover here is a replacement from mcmaster carr for $90

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3718/=2umxve

part number
93735K51

[JoBwan]

Heavensoutlaw,
make sure the end sits parralell to the plastic sleeve it faces against,if you have any trouble with the ballscrew cover here is a replacement from mcmaster carr for $90

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/3718/=2umxve

part number
93735K51

timmy.
Great info! :wave::cheers:

[timmydabull]

to further clarify McMaster gets there ballscrew covers from Centry Cover

there website can be located here

http://www.centryco.com/products/centry.php

hope this will help anyone looking for ballscrew cover replacement.

[Paul.Brown]

Hi, I'm new to the forum. we have a has tm1...I recently replace both front and rear y axis ballscrew covers...no big deal, mechanically....BUT in the process I lost home for Y axis (of course, because you have to disconnect and remove the servo and pull the ballscrew out of the bearing to replace the rear cover......after reassembly...the machine won't zero on Y axis....SERVO ERROR TOO LARGE alarm....(it come all the way forward) it is basically exceeding its physical limits. ANY ideas???? Thanks In advance

Paul Brown

[LeWhite]

Paul search: Hass lathes, zero offsed margin too small. There you will find instruction to reset grid offset and mill should be similar. Should be about .180
When I replaced mine I just unrolled it off the screw and removed about 3lb of grease and chips. Rolled the new one inside out, cut my hand, then rolled the new one on. I used some bathroom caulking to seal the ends to the plastic cups, and band aid to repair my hand.

[Paul.Brown]

actually, haas specific doesn't want you doing that. so I didn't....I followed the instructions that came with the new cover.

[LeWhite]

Did Haas say WHY they dont want the screw r&r done that way? Do they think the screw could be scratched? Mine has run for about 3 yrs, no probs.

Did you solve the grid offset prob?

[Paul.Brown]

It comes with a very brief exploded view of the ballscrew and on that sheet in big red letters it says DO NOT WIND ON THE COVER IT MAY BIND AND BECOME DAMAGED. I'm sure you COULD do it that way, but I am not that patient. besides, with my luck I would screw it up and that would be why.

[LeWhite]

Did the instructions include grid offset reset.

[laurencen]

hi guys, I know this is a old thread but I needed to replace the rear ball screw cover on a 2005 vintage TM1, got the kit from Haas and the single sheet of instructions, how do I get the rear bearing housing to change the front cover, we removed the servo, flex coupling, the screw needs to go back beyond the bearing to change the front cover

removed the 6 cap screws that seem to hold the bearing housing to the casting but its solid, there is a ring inside the housing with 2 holes I assume a drive tool would turn it out but its solid and not wanting to force it

so how do I get the rear bearing or housing off to let the ball screw go back to replace front cover

thanks in advance

[IVANGAMBOA]

How did you fix this problem?

[Engineerable]

There's a much easier way to replace the rear ball screw cover without having to remove the ballscrew, does no damage to the ball screw or spring cover, and is way faster than the HASS instructions.
I made a video showing how I did it - https://youtu.be/lZq4mBhvX7Q

Yes, I did it how the instructions specifically say not to, but if you are careful, and use the tools and technique that I did, it works fine. The key is to protect the ball screw, and slowly release the new spring over a tube so that it stays constrained and does not get damaged.

Step 1: Protect the ball screw. I sliced open a cardboard tube and used it to protect the ball screw during cover removal and install.

Step 2: Uncoil the old spring cover, letting the loose part feed out under the table.

Step 3: Put the new spring cover over a tube (cardboard, PVC pipe, plastic rod...), and slowly release it, allowing it to fully extend.

Step 4: Pass the new spring cover (with tube inside) under the table, and start winding the small end first over the plastic guide on the rear end of the ball screw.

Step 5: While holding the spring cover compressed, remove the protective tube that was placed over the ball screw.

The video ( https://youtu.be/lZq4mBhvX7Q ) does a much better job at showing the process. It did not appear to deform or damage the new spring at all. It works like new.